Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2019

Bibhu Mohapatra is back!! After not showing during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) last season, many wondered if Bibhu Mohapatra would show for the fall 2019 season and if there were adjustment at his brand that caused Bibhu to opt out of showing for the spring 2019 season. (Fashion insiders were aware that were some shakeup at the brand with a change in Bibhu Mohapatra’s PR team.)

All the changes at the company seem to now be behind Bibhu Mohapatra; his fall 2019 collection was not only brilliant, but also very accessible. In past seasons, Bibhu Mohapatra’s fashion-as-art design aesthetic sometimes overshadowed the accessibility of his collection; appealing to a distinct consumer base that is not afraid to take fashion risk. Also, this collection will be very appealing to celebrities that are looking for that very special moment. (Bibhu Mohapatra counts Taraji Henson as one of his devotees.)

For the brand’s 10th anniversary season, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by his sojourn to Mount Stewart in Northern Ireland. Experiencing the beautiful gardens that were designed by the Marchioness of Londonberry in the early 20th Century, Mohapatra was able to marry the intricate beauty of the gardens with the textured fabrics and embroideries inspired by the paintings of Peter Beard.

True to form and indicative of his design aesthetic, Mohapatra combined fabrics and silhouettes in ways that unique to his perspective. There were lots of asymmetrical silhouettes in this outing, as well as embellishments of fur, sequins and feathers. And though these embellishments conjure up images of luxury and red-carpet glamour, this collection was so much more than that.

With this collection Bibhu Mohapatra is bringing glamour back to NYFWS, something has been sorely missed from NYFWS for several seasons. And Mohapatra’s distillation of glamour and youthful charm is what fashion should always be, now and next. And this collection has now and next to spare.

The now is made evident in a collection that is heavy on retail viability and consumer accessibility. The next is conjured up in the way that Mohapatra combines fabrics, textures, and embellishment combined with his unique interpretation of interesting silhouettes.

Photos courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra

If there was one hitch in this collection; perhaps, it was the brand’s choice of models. Unfortunately, several of the models just didn’t bring the level of sophistication and regality that the collection demanded. Luckily for Bibhu, most of the garments sold themselves.Standout looks in this collection, and there were many, were Bibhu Mohapatra’s black cashmere overcoat with lace embroidered organza top and crepe pants, scissor-cut lace day/night dress with lace-up waist details, artic fox and broadtail vest over peacock silk gabardine flared dress, blush and lime double satin gown with draped petals, and fuchsia silk garbadine preciosa crystal embroidered gown with feather hem. Welcome back Bibhu!!

—William S. Gooch

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