Palomo Spain Fall 2019

There were not many bright spots during the New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) fall 2019 season. Amid rumors that this season may be NYFWM’s last season, it was more than evident that NYFWM is a mere shadow of what it was or what it aspired to be.

With the absence of major American menswear brands Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Nautica, Tommy Hilfiger and others, NYFWM’s fall 2019 season was mostly a miss. However, there were a few bright spots and the shining moment that roused the most attention was Palomo Spain’s fall 2019 collection.

Inspired the rural Spanish of the early 20th Century and Serge Diaghilev’s Ballet Russe, Palomo Spain’s creative director Palomo Gomez found an ingenious way to fuse what seemingly appear to be two disparate ideas the Ballet Russe and rural Spanish culture of the early 20th Century into an almost seamless design aesthetic. And a more interesting and notable aspect to this collection, Palomo Gomez found a way to inject the brand’s signature aesthetic of gender fluidity in a way that was not overwhelming, but added to the brilliance of the collection.

The Ballet Russes in the second decade of its existence was beginning to incorporate Spanish influences into its dance repertoire which was expressed in the music of Manuel de Falla, the choreography of Leonide Massine, and the backdrops and scenery of Pablo Picasso. These influences produced such dance works as “El Sombero de Tres Picos” and “Cuadro Flamenco.”

In this fall 2019 outing, Gomez expertly paired feminine and masculine silhouettes, which is expected. What was superb in this collection is Gomez’s acumen of pairing the feminine with the masculine is a way that is more accessible than in previous seasons.

The ‘new’ or ‘purified’ Palomo Spain is projecting to bring the brand’s historical references into the 21st Century. The brand’s new direction is made evident in the new color palettes. This season Palomo Gomez incorporated grey into the collection, balanced with tones of emerald green, navy blue, and scarlet red. There are also more refined fabrics of heavier wools, silk taffetas, cashmeres, and velvets. The brand even developed its own signature print of a deconstructed polka dot.

There was also a wide array of brand accessories in this collection, ranging from gloves, hats, and bags to shoes and belts. These dynamic accessories came in the signature deconstructed polka dot print, as well as leather and suede. Additionally, there were several garments that could easily be mixed and matched with items within this collection or garments from other collections—particularly the collection’s jackets and skirts.

In spite of the brand’s new direction, what stood out most in this outing was Palomo Spain’s collage of textures, silhouettes, and the masculine juxtaposed against the feminine, all melded in ways that one aesthetic did not overshadow the other, brilliantly complimenting the entire direction of this collection. Where other menswear collections this season did not cause pulses to quicken, Palomo Spain’s fall 2019 collection not only caused fashion palpitations, the collection also elicited refrains of bravissimo and applause.

Images courtesy of Pelonio Press

Now, that is what NYFW should be about. With this collection, Palomo Spain gives fashion industry professionals great hope!!—William S. Gooch

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