Missoni Men’s Spring 2019

Looking back to previous decades as inspiration for new fashion collections is common practice for fashion brands/designers/creative directors. A few years back punk fashion was all the rage and no brand did it better that year than Versace. (Though it was an updated look at punk seen through the lens of sensuality and hot lava passion.) And last season it was all about a revitalized look at 1980s street style. We are talking about an updated look at tracksuits, classic high top sneakers, and round-the-way girl glam. Virgil Abloh of Off White set the standard for this 80s glance back.

For spring 2019 Missoni takes a reflective look at Paris-Dakar rally of 1979. This rally was the initial event for what has become one of the premier world motorcycle competitions. The course takes competitors from Paris to the capital city of Dakar, Senegal. The 1979 competition was one by Cyril Neveu, driving a Yamaha motorcycle.

Missoni in their men’s spring 2019 conjured up images or motor cross racing across cultures as was evidenced in 1979 Paris-Dakar rally were competitors raced across the European land mass and the North African and West African cultures. This season’s color palettes move from verdant fields to golden deserts as reflections of alternating landscapes and memories, while the overall collection reveals a worn and weathered patina. And we all know no one mixes color palettes better than Missioni.

Sandstone and electric citrine color palettes stream through expanses of olive green, medallion gold and lac-rose red. Racing yellow and bleu de France cut across stretches of midnight blue, bright green and cerulean. Cascades of multi-colored space-dyes emerge as illuminating storms of colors and as moments of celebration.

Layered silhouettes reflect a contrast of extreme proportions and an amalgamation of the Missoni Man’s transformative journey. Softly tailored double-breasted suits in lightweight loom-knit fabrics give way to slightly more disheveled, put-together looks that take on a more ethnic vibe and styling; mixing and matching elongated intimo pieces with oversized shawl-collar cardigans, polos and V-necks, field jackets and nylon pullovers, cutaway collar or pajama shirts and relaxed linen trousers or cargo shorts.

                                              Images courtesy of C&M Media

And though this collection is a look back to the late 1970s men’s style silhouettes of cardigan sweaters, polo shirts and linen trousers, there was much in this men’s spring 2019 collection that exhibited Missoni’s genius at repurposing vintage looks for the modern palette. Which is a hard thing to do in that most of Missoni’s youthful consumer base was not even born when the Paris-Dakar rally took place or is familiar with late 70s style. Still, Missoni made work and made it work, brilliantly.—William S. Gooch

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