Vivienne Tam Fall 2017

Vivienne_Tam_Fall_2017Vivienne Tam’s fall 2017 collection was off the beaten path for Tam’s penchant for layering unisex looks with mild colors. Though Tam’s oeuvre for layering and mixing and matching was still in place, Tam employed more sophistication and panache this season.

This season Vivienne’s imagination took her to Hong Kong nightlife. Hong Kong has a very active nightlife, a nightlife that for three decades has been a go-to destination for night revelers. With its many bright lights and Western influences, Hong Kong  has long been a melting pot of the confluences of Far East and Western cultures. With that in mind, Tam’s fall 2017 collection aptly expressed that East meets West blend of cultures seen through the lens of Hong Kong’s nightlife.

Collages1169Tam’s line consisted of fashion forward, disco-inspired clothes with amazing embellishments of sequins and metallic fabrics. Unfortunately, Tam’s mixture of bright color combinations and with sequin overlays, almost like a 3D moving part didn’t always work; however, for a night out on the town Tam’s sequined silver bomber jacket with a sheer elongated top and jeans—Tam loves a bomber jacket—can offer a modern, fresh look compared to the usual skintight, form-hugging dresses normally seen at nightclubs.

Collages1170Tam should be credited for risk taking, always combining sheers with heavy textures and somehow it usually works. Even Tam’s mixture of colored sequins on one dress seemed to present a more contemporary look than 1970s looks from those who were habitués at discos every weekend. Additionally, Tam’s use of ruching and draping, ever present in this collections pants, skirts and dresses, was a gentle nod to Madame Gres. Instead of giving the collection a vintage look, Tam ingeniously found a modern take of draping and ruching that would appeal to a younger audience.

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini/vogue.com

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini/vogue.com

With Tam’s ‘Hong Kong City of Lights’ design motif Tam transformed simple designs into special pieces that can be worn over street clothes. This dissimilar combination was a new way of presenting the current trend of shimmery, shiny metallics that was prevalent in other collections all season. And by mix and matching metallic with everyday staples, Tam continues to forge a fashion path in the ever-present, all consuming youth demographic.

—Rosemary Ponzo

 

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