Rinat Brodach looked to the delicacy of human existence for her fall 2017 collection. Experiencing the raw emotion of her mother’s battle with cancer, Brodach delved into the emotions of love, loss, fear, sorrow, and ultimately triumphant heroism and evolution.
Rinat Brodach has always looked to how fabric can mold on the body when left to its own path. With that perspective in place, oftentimes Brodach’s garments are inexplicably supportive of how the body naturally moves, silhouetting the physique, but not dictating the form or expression. What seems so natural is actually the result of a brilliant calculated manipulation. Manipulated to simulate effortlessness, or less is more. And it works.
For this collection Brodach employs bold color and luxurious wools masterfully draped around the natural flow of the body. In this outing, Brodach also includes menswear looks, which is first for her.
This inclusion is a natural progression in this collection, melding beautifully into several of the androgynous pieces in this fall 2017 outing. In this collection there is almost no male or female with most of the looks working well on either feminine or masculine bodies. Brodach made this point of view manifest by including man skirts, gender fluid suits, and tops that work well on any sex.
Though the most prominent and customer-friendly garments in the collection were Brodach’s outerwear, there were many looks, particularly the separates, that could appeal to a wider demographic. And with this collection Brodach is closer to expanding her audience appeal to consumer outside of just the urban dweller market.
Like many designers this season, Brodach also looked to revolutionary influences. This revolutionary spirit is expressed in Brodach’s nod to David Bowie and punk style. (By special attend to the brand’s coats with safety pins for buttons.)
Standout looks in the collection include the Japanese wool black ‘Jackie” coat, black long coat with black Japanese wool twist skirt, the terracotta ‘Johnny I’ jacket, and the black ‘Bowie’ dress.
—William S. Gooch