How do you pique menswear editors’ interest for New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) when a good portion of the collections showcased are comfortably situated in the American sportswear vein? One way to stimulate conversation and interest is to pull out the gimmicks and props.
In its fourth season NYFWM has still failed to curate high-end, luxury European designers. Though the NYFWM was originally launched to keep mainstream American sportswear designers, namely Michael Bastian, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, and Billy Reid showing in New York City and not opting out for Paris, London, and London. To that effect the CFDA, the governing body for NYFWM, has been partially successful. (Billy Reid, John Varvatos, and Ralph Lauren still show in NYC.)
That said; keeping American sportswear designers in tact was not the only motivation. Wagging tongues contend that the powers that be also hoped to attract luxury menswear European brands. Since that has yet to happen, enter pomp and circumstance and addendum; in other words a parade of extras.
In Samuelsohn’s case, the additional backdrop of setting their fall 2017 collection on an ice rink with Eric Radford, 2014 Olympic pairs figure skating medalist, worked!! Inspired by Monte Bianco, which is capped in ice year round, Chief Creative Officer Arnold Brant Silverstone referenced the foothills of Monte Bianco’s autumn color palette of hues of garnet and wine combined with a snowcapped kaleidoscope of silver, white and ice blue in this outing.
Also used in this collection was Samuelsohn’s exclusive ice technology of luxury wools and cashmeres that are eco-friendly and non-toxic. These innovative ice technology fabrications incorporate isothermal properties, maintaining an optimal body microclimate while offering water resistance, wrinkle recovery, natural stretch and breathability.
Standout looks in this fall 2017 collection include the tartan plaid vest and soft trousers in Ice Wool, alpaca boucle raglan sleeve coat in wool mohair, yarn-dyed cotton line blend velvet in a double-breasted peak lapel, and Ice Cashmere zibeline finish coat with silver fox collar.
—William S. Gooch