Will 2017 be a pivotal year for change in men’s fashion? The verdict is not out yet. 2017 has already been a year of significant change in politics. And whether this new political direction causes fear and consternation or gives momentum for retraction and tribalism, change is here!!
In this age of change many designers are opting this season to combine their men’s and women’s shows as way to cut down on the expense of runway presentations. That said; many mainstream brands such as Burberry, Marc Jacobs, and John Varvatos have opted out of showing during men’s fashion weeks in London, Paris, Milan, and New York.
This absence of mainstream brands has forced London Fashion Week’s fall 2017 season to go back to its original oeuvre of presenting emerging designers. And while major menswear brands did not exit Paris Fashion Week, the woodsmen and a country, rural aesthetic demonstrates that a new menswear movement is afoot with many menswear designers choosing to move away from the urban warrior aesthetic that has been a constant in fall/winter menswear fashion for several seasons.
Things move more slowly in the US, so we can expect NYFW to embrace the trend of woodsmen style while still staying true to some street style and an urban aesthetic. New York Men’s Day that is co-sponsored by Cadillac will feature Jahnkoy, You As by Tony Liu, Bode by Emily Adams Bode, Willy Chavarria, and Matthew Adams Dolan, as well as returning labels Matiere, Garciavelez, Landlord, Woodhouse, and N-p-Elliott.
Though New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) has successfully presented emerging talent, it has not attracted established luxury European brands. Missing from the NYFWM’s fall 2017 roster will be Public School, Siki Im, Michael Bastian, Greg Lauren, Malan Breton, Artistix, Edmund Ooi, Concept Korea, Asaf Ganot, and many others.
New York Fashion Week Men’s fall 2017 starts on Monday, January 30 and runs through February 2.
—William S. Gooch