Francesca Liberatore Spring 2017

Collages884“Francesca Liberatore’s last name means liberator.” And, it is freedom that Liberatore said she sought to capture with her spring 2017 collection inspired by “balloons in the sky.”

There was certainly an ease and flow to the collection that opened with a sleeveless black and gold pinstriped dress with a high slit that billowed with the model’s gait. The pieces that make up this collection were made to be swept by the wind, resulting in calculated yet understated drama: the cuts and lines were classic and the preponderance of looks mono or dichromatic.

Francesca_Liberatore_Spring_2017Liberatore said balloons remind her of freedom and also of volume. For volume, bows were the order of the day: asymmetric neck lines on tee shirts culminated in a large taffeta bow; purple bows with tails hanging long were tied to the waistline of flare skirts, a red velvet blazer and bright crimson culottes. Yet, the clothes were not weighed down by the ubiquity of this classically romantic element. Ideas and shapes were modernized by the use of jersey. And the overall feel of the collection was given more buoyancy by printed t-shirts that were paired with more formal pieces.

Collages885Beyond bows, Liberatore found volume in both closed and open shapes. Jodhpur-like trousers and blouson sleeves on shirts and dresses were directly redolent of the balloons of the designer’s inspiration. On structured shirtdresses and a wide-lapelled trench dress, an additional short flourish of fabric, an ankle-length train if you will, intelligently provided the volume without the confinement of shape.

Images courtesy of

Images courtesy of

Though a few of the bow-embellished pieces felt like craft work, overall Liberatore presented a restrained exploration of freedom that speaks volumes of the maturity of the designer’s sensibilities.

—Natasha Nyanin




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