Can good sportswear be both artistic and practical?
Designer Peter Som says finding the balance between those two sensibilities was the driving force behind his spring 2015 collection.
On the practical side, Som provided his ladies with practical solutions, basics with a Som twist. The best of these included an off-white PVC Macintosh, a striped cady double-breasted blazer, and some terrific tailored marine stripe trousers. The classic white shirt was given a carefree twist with a cascade back that billowed with powerful purposefulness as it went down the runway.
The artistic side was reflected in a series of pieces done in a pop art flavored print that looked initially like abstract swirls but, on closer inspection was actually a rose print. And Som inflected even the most mundane items with a bit of flair—tee shirts in python and snake, for example, making the mundane anything but.
The color palette also signaled Som’s mix of practical and the artistic, moving from a military olive green for his urban warrior women to a more lighthearted stripe such as Som’s multi pop stripe cady double breasted blazer, worn with a different stripe cady tunic. The multi pop stripe also showed up in a striking cotton tweed double-breasted coat dress and even in a gown perfect for going from daytime to nighttime.
Som also worked with crisp combinations of black and white and brought a true flair of urban sophistication with a series of black pieces including a black crosshatch eyelet appliqué tee shirt and skirt and a black and white shadow floral sundress that also incorporated the black crosshatch eyelet.
Finally, Som interjected a surprise shot of va va voom with gold lame used in a flutter dress and then a double-breasted blazer and romper. And occasional bursts of lipstick and red further guaranteed that the Som girl still has a playful side.
Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack
There were a few misfires here and there, particularly Som’s odd aprons, worn over dresses and tunics. But even with this example of utilitarian chic gone wrong Som’s spring 2015 collection still had plenty of other moments that were perfectly right for the season.
—Karyn D. Collins
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