Vivienne Hu Fall 2017

Vivienne_Hu_Fall_2017For fall 2017 Vivienne Hu finds exciting construction in a deconstructed society. This season at the Vivienne Hu’s New York Fashion Week: The Shows fall 2017 runway show gone are the fluff ball gowns and huge puffy dresses. This is a collection that is all about business.

Vivienne said of this fall 2017 collection “I want this collection to epitomize the strength, individuality and determination worn by a strong New Yorker as she rushes to meet her next challenge.”

The looks are easy on the eye and relatable to modern consumers which is a plus for salability with each piece a constructed look that is a combination of leather, wools and fur trim. All looks that denote strength, yet sophisticated with a core essence of modern beauty.

Collages1178The use of black and camel wools along with fur and leather was a mix of hard and soft. Hu also mixed a stripe multi-colored dress paired with a black and creme plaid fur collar and cuffed trimmed blazer.

Several models wore a black fox hood, even in the eveningwear portion of the collection. The showing of leather evening cropped tops with long skintight leather evening skirts had huge front-slits. Perhaps, Hu is creating a trend, a new evening look for 2017.

Collages1179The gowns were modern and bold revealing sufficient bare shoulders and legs, as well as combining black fox waist-length moto jackets, making the evening looks more youthful and contemporary. Narrow cut slim looking black and creme plaid high-cut jackets over silky cropped skinny pants was a plus for this fall 2017 collection.

Collages1180Favorites in this collection includ a red wool 3/4 length coat with fox fur hood with a downtown feel of cut out leggings, and a puffy leather coat with fur trim on the cuff and hemline. Additionally, other great pieces were Hu’s beautiful camel coat to her collection, a classic wrap coat with black color blocking, and a great slanted zipper coat worn over a multicolored dress.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Most of  Hu’s ensembles can be worn during the daytime at the office or in the evening for a night out. Some of the pieces were star attractions while others were just fill-ins. Still, overall this was a well-attended show with some great pieces and separates.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Custo Barcelona Fall 2017

Custo_Barcelona_Fall_2017For fall 2017 Custo Barcelona’s collection was an ode to individuality and “shining the light.” This collection was Custo Barcelona’s attempt to have color—something they are known for—nuanced through the variations of reflection and radiance of the fabrics.

Interestingly, referencing color that can morph based on reflection and different fabrications is almost an oxymoron for Custo. Custo Barcelona is known for its kaleidoscope of color, shimmer, and patchwork layering so using this sparkle and color reflection as a reference point is not a huge stretch for the brand. That said; many other fashion brands did incorporate sparkle and glitter elements this season, keeping Custo Barcelona on trend this season. Still, Custo Barcelona leads the pack when it comes to sparkle and shine, and the brand has been the purveyor of this design aesthetic since its inception.

Collages1125Custo Barcelona’s ‘Light Years’ collection is built around iridescent lame, fabrics with a metallic finish, laminated fabrics, textures embossed with metal glitter, nets of Lurex thread, and sparkles of colors of precious stones, delicately combined to create feminine and fashionable silhouettes. That is a lot to put into one pot; however, Custo pulls if off. And perhaps this collection has more innovation and is more representative of who the brand is compared to what industry professionals have seen in some previous outings, because this collection is a true reflection of creative director Dalmau Custo. Remember, no one does kaleidoscopes of color, mixing and matching and glitter elements better than Dalmau Custo.

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Collages1127Though there were many women’s looks that looked great on the runway and definitely reflected the design aesthetic this season, at times there was almost too much flash and flame with some garments taking on the look of Christmas ornamentation. The men’s looks fared better, perhaps because the men’s looks had more restraint and less layering.

Images courtesy of Nouveau PR

Images courtesy of Nouveau PR

Overall, if there is a statement to be made, particularly on a night out on the town, these are the clothes that will wow!! Can anyone say “Saturday Night Fever” 2017?

—William S. Gooch

Asaf Ganot Fall 2017

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_20171In the States, Asaf Ganot has distinguished himself for his menswear. When Asaf Ganot showed his spring 2016 menswear collection during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Ganot presented a fresh, contemporary collection of sportswear looks that would have a wide appeal to American men; particularly, Ganot’s outwear.

For fall 2017 Ganot has not altered his brand’s design DNA of great outerwear. However, this season Ganot added some women’s look demonstrated that his brand is adept at dressing both men and women.

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_2017The collection was mostly a compendium on leather outerwear. And with Ganot’s penchant for great outerwear, it makes sense to expand his brand to women’s wear in that men’s and women’s outerwear, particularly leather jackets, there is not a huge difference in the silhouettes.

That said; there were some latticed tops that were solely in the ladies’ category. Additionally, there was a tuxedo-inspired leather jacket, denim-inspired jackets, as well as leather jackets that referenced safari travel. There was a jumpsuit, some leather crop tops, and a beautiful, oversized white dress shirt; however, this collection was still a tribute to the modern uses of leather as outerwear for both sexes.

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_20172When it comes to the leather outerwear for men, Ganot did not push the proverbial fashion envelope for far. In other words, there was a lot of now and very little next. Still, all the men’s wear looks were styled beautifully. And Ganot expansive use of distressed washes and treatments of leather outer was interesting to see.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

If Asaf Ganot gets his predilection for leather out of his system, so to speak, with his talent, it will be interesting to see him expand to other fabrications and styles. The potential is definitely there.

—William S. Gooch

 

Artistix Fall 2017

Artistix_Fall_2017Greg Polissesni’s original paintings, Harvest, and its autumn color palette inspired Artistix’s artistic director Andy Hilfiger. For those not aware, Andy Hilfiger is the sibling of Tommy Hilfiger and Andy, in his own right, has long had an association with rock music. In the past few years, Andy has taken his love of rock n’ roll and funneled that love into fashion collections that reflect his first love, rock n’ roll.

Andy Hilfiger has also paired these fashion collections with the art of Greg Polissesni who is a partner in Artistix. The autumnal color palette, which is so obvious in this fall 2017 collection, is combined with a military reference. From the chef coat to the flight suit, this harvest collection is  fashion-forward uniform wear. And these two design motifs work well together!!

Artistix_Fall_20171The fall colors of burnt orange, fall reds, military greens combined with some denim elements makes a color palette that denotes autumn is a very comfortable fit for consumers. Hilfiger does not reinvent the wheel with this collection; however, this collection is extremely consumer friendly if marketed correctly have a substantial consumer appeal. And the sweaters in this collection are fun and adorable.

Collages1203And by mixing in men’s looks with mostly women’s wear pieces, Hilfiger is track for creating a collection that is more in the vein of lifestyle brand—something that is esteemed sibling is recognized for. That said; interestingly, the fashion landscape is slightly devoid of brands that have an innovative twist on rock n’roll–inspired clothes at an affordable price. Artistix could fill that void.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in this fall 2017 collection is the Artistix flight suit, white Artistix blouse with asymmetrical military skirt, harvest color block chef’s coat, and harvest camo bomber.

—William S. Gooch

Slideshow image courtesy of fashionmaniac.com

Denibi Barcelona Fall 2017

DENIBI_FW17 The Denibi brand has added the name Barcelona to its moniker branding, denoting that the city of Barcelona continues to be source of inspiration for the brand as well as the city where many of the garments are made. But other than this branding change, Denibi Barcelona is evolving along the path that has made the brand one of the most interesting emerging brands presenting during New York Fashion Week (NYFW).

That said; creative director Fadel Denibi likes to take traditional silhouettes and reinterpreted those silhouettes through a modern lens with a few twists. And that brand DNA fits in perfectly with the inspiration for the fall 2017 collection.

Collages1216With a cracked African ebene as the design motif for the brand that denotes polar opposites—the right side representing happiness and the left side representing sadness—Fadel Denibi looks to dual qualities in his women. This dual personality is made evident in Fadel Denibi’s first painting, Agatha. Agatha fights for equality and justice while balancing the varying aspects of her personality. Agatha is feminine, yet enigmatic; curious and probing, yet firm in her convictions.

In this fall 2017 collection, Agatha’s femininity is expressed in floral shapes. Beautifully crafted high collars in the collection represent the high collars from the Agatha painting. Denibi stays mostly with neutral colors with a few seafoam blue garments thrown in as an injection of color.

Collages1217True to form, classic silhouette are reimagined with peplum jackets suggesting a rose unfolding and simple shift dresses with inverted front slits conjuring up images of upside down flowers. Though these classic silhouettes have been seen for decades, Fadel Denibi revises these classics in ways that detail youthfulness and sophistication.

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca/Seventh House PR

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca/Seventh House PR

Standout looks in the collection include the brand’s camel asymmetric cashmere coat, black wool flower-shaped jacket with classic black wool pencil skirt, seafoam blue wool flower-inspired jacket, and  camel asymmetric cashmere coat, black wool flower-shaped jacket with classic black wool pencil skirt, seafoam blue wool flower-inspired jacket, .

—William S. Gooch

Philipp Plein Fall 2017

Philipp_Plein_Fall_2017When a hot European brand debuts during New York Fashion Week (NYFW), it is important to make a big splash. And a big splash is what Philipp Plein made with its debut collection during NYFW. Maybe some established American brands could learn from the kind of take-NYC-by-storm show of Philipp Plein. Perhaps, more shows like Philipp Plein would add a much-needed innovation and energy to some of the lackluster runway shows that are currently a part of the NYFW terrain. Of course, it would be hard to trump Plein—Plein’s fall 2017 show included performances by NAS, The Kills, and 2 Live Crew.  Still, Plein is pointing runway shows in the right direction, particularly when many fashion industry professionals no longer attend NYFW due to boredom and disgust.

That said; back to Plein’s fall 2017 collection!! Plein’s fall 2017 collection was about breaking down barriers. And that includes breaking down barriers of class, race, sex, sexual identity, and cultural affiliations. In this new world order, everything counts and is also mixed together in a beautiful mosaic.

Collages1152With the words ‘Neighborhood Kings’ emblazoned throughout the collection, Plein was demonstrating that culturally everyone is a king in their own right. In Philipp Plein’s universe everyone reigns supreme whether you identify with street culture of couture; whether you self identify as male or female or neither or both; whether you have deep pockets or not, and in Plein’s case whether you have a standard model physique or not.

This expansive self-definition is expressed in clothes that are easily gender fluid and combine high end with separates that can be mixed and matched. Consider sneaks with a couture dress or gown, or thigh-high expensive stiletto boots with a hood. In Plein’s world nothing divides, everything potentially unites.

Collages1153Plein presented a uniquely NYC story with this fall 2017 collection. And this New York story idea is made evident in Statue of Liberty patches, dollar bill print on jackets and shirts, and Fashion Beyond Imagination patches (FBI).

Interestingly, what Plein has presented in his New York debut is not new. Hip-hop and urban brands did this two decades ago; perhaps, with less expensive fabrications and innovation, but rigorously effective design. Still, looking back to vintage design aesthetics seems to be the order of the day for many brands this season, so Plein in not out of step!!

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Images courtesy of F. Scarlari.Philipp Plein

Images courtesy of F. Scarlari.Philipp Plein

And there is a stateside, large youthful demographic who have a deep love for hip-hop and urban street style. This demographic is primed and ready to  embrace Plein. Smart move Philipp Plein. Power to young people!!

—William S. Gooch

Georgine Fall 2017

GEORGINE FW2017In a season where many designers/brands looked to politics and cultural rebellion for inspiration, Georgine used famous hotel dwellers as a reference point. Who are these iconic hotel dwellers via the locations you might ask? Consider Coco Chanel’s suite at The Ritz and Oscar Wilde’s chambers at Hotel d’Alsace, to Howard Hughes bungalow at The Beverly Hills Hotel, and Edie Sedgwick’s room at The Chelsea Hotel.

Though the fall 2017 collection conjures up images of the classic, iconic hotel dwellers, the garments in the collection are named after the hotels or dwelling locations—The Bowery Hotel, The Savoy, Chateau Marmont, The Beekman, Hotel California, The Ritz, The Peninsula, Copacabana Palace, and Viceroy. And fittingly so, in that the garments in this fall 2017 collection reflected what modern consumers would wear in those iconic locales.

Collages1147This season Georgine borrowed from the past and fused those iconic looks with a modern sensibility and accessibility. There were several trends in the collection from the metallic trend to diaphanous sheers; and those continuing trends helped keep the collection fun, frolicky, youthful and accessible.

In contrast to some collections this season, Georgine ingeniously understood how to take vintage looks with a darker color palette and inject the clothes with a youthful vigor and freshness. Georgine accomplished this by including diaphanous sheers where appropriate and displayed little glimpses of skin in the right places.

Collages1149After only five years on the fashion scene, Georgine is establishing itself as a go-to brand for that fashion consumer who wants garments that go beyond the stand fare of what might be conceived as American luxury. There is always a twist with each collection, elevating each collection beyond clothes that appeal to women from a certain economic demographic. (Remember, sometimes that edgy fashionista has deep pockets.)

Collages1148Each season Georgine broadens its demographic, and this season was perhaps the most expansive and inclusive. Where in previous seasons the Georgine’s demographic was definitely that fashionable downtown fashion girl, this season the collection embraced more silhouettes and shapes and dressed their woman at every jointure of her day.

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Though many of the party looks in the collection would work mostly for a youthful audience, there were several separates in this outing that would appeal to a larger demographic. That said; Georgine did not veer away from their signature looks of the chicly dressed down girl. Still, the Georgine design duo worked in garments, particular the outerwear that would interest a variety of women.

—William S. Gooch

Rinat Brodach Fall 2017

Downloads346Rinat Brodach looked to the delicacy of human existence for her fall 2017 collection. Experiencing the raw emotion of her mother’s battle with cancer, Brodach delved into the emotions of love, loss, fear, sorrow, and ultimately triumphant heroism and evolution.

Rinat Brodach has always looked to how fabric can mold on the body when left to its own path. With that perspective in place, oftentimes Brodach’s garments are inexplicably supportive of how the body naturally moves, silhouetting the physique, but not dictating the form or expression. What seems so natural is actually the result of a brilliant calculated manipulation. Manipulated to simulate effortlessness, or less is more. And it works.

Rinat_Brodach_Fall_2017For this collection Brodach employs bold color and luxurious wools masterfully draped around the natural flow of the body. In this outing, Brodach also includes menswear looks, which is first for her.

This inclusion is a natural progression in this collection, melding beautifully into several of the androgynous pieces in this fall 2017 outing. In this collection there is almost no male or female with most of the looks working well on either feminine or masculine bodies. Brodach made this point of view manifest by including man skirts, gender fluid suits, and tops that work well on any sex.

Rinat_Brodach_Fall_20171Though the most prominent and customer-friendly garments in the collection were Brodach’s outerwear, there were many looks, particularly the separates, that could appeal to a wider demographic. And with this collection Brodach is closer to expanding her audience appeal to consumer outside of just the urban dweller market.

Images courtesy of Supreme Pubicity

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Like many designers this season, Brodach also looked to revolutionary influences. This revolutionary spirit is expressed in Brodach’s nod to David Bowie and punk style. (By special attend to the brand’s coats with safety pins for buttons.)

Standout looks in the collection include the Japanese wool black ‘Jackie” coat, black long coat with black Japanese wool twist skirt, the terracotta ‘Johnny I’ jacket, and the black ‘Bowie’ dress.

—William S. Gooch

Maison the Faux Fall 2017

FAUX_WCFF17The fall 2017 fashion season was a season of retrospection. A season of seeing what worked in the past and reinventing those tried-and-true formulas for contemporary audiences; in other words finding successful fashion moments that have relevancy for today’s consumers.

Maison the Faux employed this look-back perspective, well, sort of!! Maison the Faux took fashion industry professionals back to the wild, runway shows of the 1990s and early 2000s when fashion shows were theatrical presentations and the models brought sass, drama, and irreverent charm. (No other models brought irreverent charm to the runway more than Kristen McMenamy, Stacy Mckenzie, and Linda Evangelista.)

Collages1121Maison the Faux presented a runway show that was fashion forward, outré and, above all irreverent. And that is a good thing!! In a season full of gimmicks and runway tricks ad nauseam, Maison the Faux runway theatrics helped pushed the editorial story forward, adding to the runway drama, but not distracting from the clothes.

For the fall 2017 collection, models strutted down the runway carrying bags of trash and second-day floral bouquets. They also brilliantly showed off zig-zagged stitched peplum jackets and pants, cinched-in-the-waist bubble coats, bubble jumpsuits, off-the-shoulder bubble coats, all paired with thigh-high stiletto boots and distressed, asymmetrical skirts, dresses, blouses and shirts.

Collages1122Now combine all this outré fashion with smeared make-up and some gender fluidity and theatrics and you have a very fun runway presentation. And surprisingly, viewers still could feast on the clothes and not be overwhelmed by the carnival going on.

In spite of the theatrics, many of the looks in this fall 2017 show had great editorial value and could appeal to a niche audience. And that niche audience is that consumer is not afraid to take some risks with their clothes and has a penchant for bubble coats and gender fluidity in all its many variations.

 

Images courtesy of EB Consults

Images courtesy of EB Consults

Maison the Faux demonstrated in its fall 2017 collection that you can combine over-the-top drama with fashion and not sacrifice the accessibility of the garments. The fashion community needs more of this!! Rock on Maison the Faux!!

—William S. Gooch

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