Artistix Fall 2017

Artistix_Fall_2017Greg Polissesni’s original paintings, Harvest, and its autumn color palette inspired Artistix’s artistic director Andy Hilfiger. For those not aware, Andy Hilfiger is the sibling of Tommy Hilfiger and Andy, in his own right, has long had an association with rock music. In the past few years, Andy has taken his love of rock n’ roll and funneled that love into fashion collections that reflect his first love, rock n’ roll.

Andy Hilfiger has also paired these fashion collections with the art of Greg Polissesni who is a partner in Artistix. The autumnal color palette, which is so obvious in this fall 2017 collection, is combined with a military reference. From the chef coat to the flight suit, this harvest collection is  fashion-forward uniform wear. And these two design motifs work well together!!

Artistix_Fall_20171The fall colors of burnt orange, fall reds, military greens combined with some denim elements makes a color palette that denotes autumn is a very comfortable fit for consumers. Hilfiger does not reinvent the wheel with this collection; however, this collection is extremely consumer friendly if marketed correctly have a substantial consumer appeal. And the sweaters in this collection are fun and adorable.

Collages1203And by mixing in men’s looks with mostly women’s wear pieces, Hilfiger is track for creating a collection that is more in the vein of lifestyle brand—something that is esteemed sibling is recognized for. That said; interestingly, the fashion landscape is slightly devoid of brands that have an innovative twist on rock n’roll–inspired clothes at an affordable price. Artistix could fill that void.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in this fall 2017 collection is the Artistix flight suit, white Artistix blouse with asymmetrical military skirt, harvest color block chef’s coat, and harvest camo bomber.

—William S. Gooch

Slideshow image courtesy of fashionmaniac.com

Denibi Barcelona Spring 2017

DENIBI_FW17In recent months the Denibi brand has added the name Barcelona to its moniker branding, denoting that the city of Barcelona continues to be source of inspiration for the brand as well as the city where many of the garments are made. But other than this branding change, Denibi Barcelona is evolving along the path that has made the brand one of the most interesting emerging brands presenting during New York Fashion Week (NYFW).

That said; creative director Fadel Denibi likes to take traditional silhouettes and reinterpreted those silhouettes through a modern lens with a few twists. And that brand DNA fits in perfectly with the inspiration for the fall 2017 collection.

Collages1216With a cracked African ebene as the design motif for the brand that denotes polar opposites—the right side representing happiness and the left side representing sadness—Fadel Denibi looks to dual qualities in his women. This dual personality is made evident in Fadel Denibi’s first painting, Agatha. Agatha fights for equality and justice while balancing the varying aspects of her personality. Agatha is feminine, yet enigmatic; curious and probing, yet firm in her convictions.

In this fall 2017 collection, Agatha’s femininity is expressed in floral shapes. Beautifully crafted high collars in the collection represent the high collars from the Agatha painting. Denibi stays mostly with neutral colors with a few seafoam blue garments thrown in as an injection of color.

Collages1217True to form, classic silhouette are reimagined with peplum jackets suggesting a rose unfolding and simple shift dresses with inverted front slits conjuring up images of upside down flowers. Though these classic silhouettes have been seen for decades, Fadel Denibi revises these classics in ways that detail youthfulness and sophistication.

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca/Seventh House PR

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca/Seventh House PR

Standout looks in the collection include the brand’s camel asymmetric cashmere coat, black wool flower-shaped jacket with classic black wool pencil skirt, seafoam blue wool flower-inspired jacket, and  camel asymmetric cashmere coat, black wool flower-shaped jacket with classic black wool pencil skirt, seafoam blue wool flower-inspired jacket, .

—William S. Gooch

Philipp Plein Fall 2017

Philipp_Plein_Fall_2017When a hot European brand debuts during New York Fashion Week (NYFW), it is important to make a big splash. And a big splash is what Philipp Plein made with its debut collection during NYFW. Maybe some established American brands could learn from the kind of take-NYC-by-storm show of Philipp Plein. Perhaps, more shows like Philipp Plein would add a much-needed innovation and energy to some of the lackluster runway shows that are currently a part of the NYFW terrain. Of course, it would be hard to trump Plein—Plein’s fall 2017 show included performances by NAS, The Kills, and 2 Live Crew.  Still, Plein is pointing runway shows in the right direction, particularly when many fashion industry professionals no longer attend NYFW due to boredom and disgust.

That said; back to Plein’s fall 2017 collection!! Plein’s fall 2017 collection was about breaking down barriers. And that includes breaking down barriers of class, race, sex, sexual identity, and cultural affiliations. In this new world order, everything counts and is also mixed together in a beautiful mosaic.

Collages1152With the words ‘Neighborhood Kings’ emblazoned throughout the collection, Plein was demonstrating that culturally everyone is a king in their own right. In Philipp Plein’s universe everyone reigns supreme whether you identify with street culture of couture; whether you self identify as male or female or neither or both; whether you have deep pockets or not, and in Plein’s case whether you have a standard model physique or not.

This expansive self-definition is expressed in clothes that are easily gender fluid and combine high end with separates that can be mixed and matched. Consider sneaks with a couture dress or gown, or thigh-high expensive stiletto boots with a hood. In Plein’s world nothing divides, everything potentially unites.

Collages1153Plein presented a uniquely NYC story with this fall 2017 collection. And this New York story idea is made evident in Statue of Liberty patches, dollar bill print on jackets and shirts, and Fashion Beyond Imagination patches (FBI).

Interestingly, what Plein has presented in his New York debut is not new. Hip-hop and urban brands did this two decades ago; perhaps, with less expensive fabrications and innovation, but rigorously effective design. Still, looking back to vintage design aesthetics seems to be the order of the day for many brands this season, so Plein in not out of step!!

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Images courtesy of F. Scarlari.Philipp Plein

Images courtesy of F. Scarlari.Philipp Plein

And there is a stateside, large youthful demographic who have a deep love for hip-hop and urban street style. This demographic is primed and ready to  embrace Plein. Smart move Philipp Plein. Power to young people!!

—William S. Gooch

Georgine Fall 2017

GEORGINE FW2017In a season where many designers/brands looked to politics and cultural rebellion for inspiration, Georgine used famous hotel dwellers as a reference point. Who are these iconic hotel dwellers via the locations you might ask? Consider Coco Chanel’s suite at The Ritz and Oscar Wilde’s chambers at Hotel d’Alsace, to Howard Hughes bungalow at The Beverly Hills Hotel, and Edie Sedgwick’s room at The Chelsea Hotel.

Though the fall 2017 collection conjures up images of the classic, iconic hotel dwellers, the garments in the collection are named after the hotels or dwelling locations—The Bowery Hotel, The Savoy, Chateau Marmont, The Beekman, Hotel California, The Ritz, The Peninsula, Copacabana Palace, and Viceroy. And fittingly so, in that the garments in this fall 2017 collection reflected what modern consumers would wear in those iconic locales.

Collages1147This season Georgine borrowed from the past and fused those iconic looks with a modern sensibility and accessibility. There were several trends in the collection from the metallic trend to diaphanous sheers; and those continuing trends helped keep the collection fun, frolicky, youthful and accessible.

In contrast to some collections this season, Georgine ingeniously understood how to take vintage looks with a darker color palette and inject the clothes with a youthful vigor and freshness. Georgine accomplished this by including diaphanous sheers where appropriate and displayed little glimpses of skin in the right places.

Collages1149After only five years on the fashion scene, Georgine is establishing itself as a go-to brand for that fashion consumer who wants garments that go beyond the stand fare of what might be conceived as American luxury. There is always a twist with each collection, elevating each collection beyond clothes that appeal to women from a certain economic demographic. (Remember, sometimes that edgy fashionista has deep pockets.)

Collages1148Each season Georgine broadens its demographic, and this season was perhaps the most expansive and inclusive. Where in previous seasons the Georgine’s demographic was definitely that fashionable downtown fashion girl, this season the collection embraced more silhouettes and shapes and dressed their woman at every jointure of her day.

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Though many of the party looks in the collection would work mostly for a youthful audience, there were several separates in this outing that would appeal to a larger demographic. That said; Georgine did not veer away from their signature looks of the chicly dressed down girl. Still, the Georgine design duo worked in garments, particular the outerwear that would interest a variety of women.

—William S. Gooch

Rinat Brodach Fall 2017

Downloads346Rinat Brodach looked to the delicacy of human existence for her fall 2017 collection. Experiencing the raw emotion of her mother’s battle with cancer, Brodach delved into the emotions of love, loss, fear, sorrow, and ultimately triumphant heroism and evolution.

Rinat Brodach has always looked to how fabric can mold on the body when left to its own path. With that perspective in place, oftentimes Brodach’s garments are inexplicably supportive of how the body naturally moves, silhouetting the physique, but not dictating the form or expression. What seems so natural is actually the result of a brilliant calculated manipulation. Manipulated to simulate effortlessness, or less is more. And it works.

Rinat_Brodach_Fall_2017For this collection Brodach employs bold color and luxurious wools masterfully draped around the natural flow of the body. In this outing, Brodach also includes menswear looks, which is first for her.

This inclusion is a natural progression in this collection, melding beautifully into several of the androgynous pieces in this fall 2017 outing. In this collection there is almost no male or female with most of the looks working well on either feminine or masculine bodies. Brodach made this point of view manifest by including man skirts, gender fluid suits, and tops that work well on any sex.

Rinat_Brodach_Fall_20171Though the most prominent and customer-friendly garments in the collection were Brodach’s outerwear, there were many looks, particularly the separates, that could appeal to a wider demographic. And with this collection Brodach is closer to expanding her audience appeal to consumer outside of just the urban dweller market.

Images courtesy of Supreme Pubicity

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

Like many designers this season, Brodach also looked to revolutionary influences. This revolutionary spirit is expressed in Brodach’s nod to David Bowie and punk style. (By special attend to the brand’s coats with safety pins for buttons.)

Standout looks in the collection include the Japanese wool black ‘Jackie” coat, black long coat with black Japanese wool twist skirt, the terracotta ‘Johnny I’ jacket, and the black ‘Bowie’ dress.

—William S. Gooch

Maison the Faux Fall 2017

FAUX_WCFF17The fall 2017 fashion season was a season of retrospection. A season of seeing what worked in the past and reinventing those tried-and-true formulas for contemporary audiences; in other words finding successful fashion moments that have relevancy for today’s consumers.

Maison the Faux employed this look-back perspective, well, sort of!! Maison the Faux took fashion industry professionals back to the wild, runway shows of the 1990s and early 2000s when fashion shows were theatrical presentations and the models brought sass, drama, and irreverent charm. (No other models brought irreverent charm to the runway more than Kristen McMenamy, Stacy Mckenzie, and Linda Evangelista.)

Collages1121Maison the Faux presented a runway show that was fashion forward, outré and, above all irreverent. And that is a good thing!! In a season full of gimmicks and runway tricks ad nauseam, Maison the Faux runway theatrics helped pushed the editorial story forward, adding to the runway drama, but not distracting from the clothes.

For the fall 2017 collection, models strutted down the runway carrying bags of trash and second-day floral bouquets. They also brilliantly showed off zig-zagged stitched peplum jackets and pants, cinched-in-the-waist bubble coats, bubble jumpsuits, off-the-shoulder bubble coats, all paired with thigh-high stiletto boots and distressed, asymmetrical skirts, dresses, blouses and shirts.

Collages1122Now combine all this outré fashion with smeared make-up and some gender fluidity and theatrics and you have a very fun runway presentation. And surprisingly, viewers still could feast on the clothes and not be overwhelmed by the carnival going on.

In spite of the theatrics, many of the looks in this fall 2017 show had great editorial value and could appeal to a niche audience. And that niche audience is that consumer is not afraid to take some risks with their clothes and has a penchant for bubble coats and gender fluidity in all its many variations.

 

Images courtesy of EB Consults

Images courtesy of EB Consults

Maison the Faux demonstrated in its fall 2017 collection that you can combine over-the-top drama with fashion and not sacrifice the accessibility of the garments. The fashion community needs more of this!! Rock on Maison the Faux!!

—William S. Gooch

Erin Fetherston Fall 2017

Erin_Fetherston_Fall_2017Erin Fetherston’s fall 2017 collection references the bohemian world traveler. Fetherston’s woman sips tea in Marrakech, dances Flamenco is Seville, lives her fantasies in Paris, but at her core she is an American young woman who probably live in Laurel Canyon, California.

Fetherston has evolved her woman from an ethereal creature who has a penchant for wispy, diaphanous fabrics to a bohemian traveler with a predilection for comfortable, travel-friendly clothes. Though the garments are not fitted clothes that show off the feminine physique with a nod toward sheer fabrics, she is more grown up and ventures outside of her usual world.

Collages1158For fall 2017, Fetherston’s woman is a romantic creature whose clothing choices lean toward billowy sleeves and Indian-inspired prints. Like many designers this season Fetherston incorporates metallic fibers and velvet into her fall 2017 collection. And Fetherston carries over the continuing trends of fringe and lower heels from her spring 2017 collection.

Fetherston in this collection solidifies the notion that her consumer is a woman of the world and is comfortable with world population though her heart is rooted in her homeland. Interestingly, Fetherston contributed to the political mood of the fall 2017 collections by putting Planned Parenthood pins in the gift bags. This motivation demonstrates that the Fetherston woman, though a world traveler, is connected to political movements in her own country.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/vogue.com

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/vogue.com

Standout looks include the brand’s burgundy velvet blazer with flounced chiffon gown, rose paisley silk jacquard tiered poet dress,  rose fringed cape and skirt, and chestnut paisley silk jacquard poet sleeve gown.

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Fall 2017

Michael_Costello_fall_2017Without a doubt sexy, feminine clothes makes up Michael Costello’s oeuvre; there is no argument about that. The bigger question is if Michael Costello can turn his obsession with sexy into a viable collection that has retail value and appeals to a wider female demographic. Costello almost achieved this with his debut spring 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and he got even closer with his spring 2016 outing during New York Fashion Week: The Shows.

Sometimes, with Costello there is inconsistency. Some seasons Costello’s brand of sexy is projected toward consumers that want to show all their physical gifts, giving a strong nod to decadent profundity. Other seasons there is more restraint with a healthy mix of sensuality, charm, and innovation.

Michael_Costello_fall_20171Still, every season Costello gets close to the goal of achieving that special balance of sensual charm and boldness paired with innovative sensibility. Costello’s fall 2017 collection manifests that combination better than any outing thus far.

Everything is almost there in Costello’s fall 2017 collection. There is more sophistication, possible wider consumer appeal, some vintage mixed with now and next, and of course Costello’s brand of sexy is front and center.

Inspired by that powerful woman whose cool style sets her apart from other women, Costello’s ‘Histoire D’Amour’ collection presents this powerful woman at the height of sensual allure and influence. This woman’s charisma is so compelling that all who encounter her charm want to be associated with her and document the many loves of her life.

Collages1136“The story of this collection was a vixen’s love story,” explains Charlotte Welch, stylist for Michael Costello’s fall 2017 collection. “This is the cool girl who falls in love, and the styling had to support that idea. We have to keep the girl cool and edgy so I went sunglasses, belts, some cool jewelry, and hat accessories to forward Michael’s story of that cool girl.”

True to form, Costello’s fall 2017 collection is a cornucopia of plunging décolletage, diaphanous sheers, high slits and form-fitting silhouettes. What set this collection apart from other Costello collections that employ similar elements are some sensual restraint and overall more compelling silhouettes. Costello’s va va voom is still a primary focus of this fall 2017 outing; however, Costello has pared down his penchant for overt sexiness to appeal to a wider demographic.

Costello also references certain eras of American sexiness in this collection. From 50s mermaid silhouettes to 70s disco glam to 80s power woman structured silhouettes, Costello finds a way to stir all this seemingly disparate feminine silhouettes into one pot and render a relatively cohesive collection.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

At first glance, Costello’s predilection for a white color palette with floral and lace embellishments conjures up images of bridal collections. However, with the specific styling of the collection, Costello elevates his penchant for white beyond bridal. “I knew going into this show that Michael was going to use a lot of white, which can mean bridal, so that was my styling challenge. So I had to use styling, makeup and hair to take the collection out of a bridal aesthetic. Of course, brides can wear many of the garments, but that is not the reference point of this collection,” detailed Welch. “We have brought in a lot of trends to elevate the collection of a bridal aesthetic. We have the rose gold trend, belting at the waist—brought back from the nineties—, and chunky jewelry.”

With this fall 2017 collection, Costello boldly responds to the question of market viability and an expanding demographic with a resounding yes. May the magic continue!!

—William S. Gooch

Desigual Fall 2017

Desigual_Fall_2017It can be argued that fashion reflects life. If ever observed the British fashion of the late 70s and early 80s that embraced the punk lifestyle that was a direct opposition to the austerity of the Thatcher regime or the feminine power suit of the mid-80s paired with oversized jewelry, reflecting the excesses of the 1980s, there is not doubt that fashion in a microcosm of life.

Whether fashion brands comment on mainstream cultures or subcultures, at its core fashion is not separate from culture. That said; Desigual was inspired by the subcultures of the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. (Think the 60s liberation movements, 70s punk culture, and 80s nightclub culture.)

Collages1116For Desigual the counterculture represents the underground vogue dance craze of 1980s, and Sunset Strip’s rock culture of the 70s, and psychedelic of the late 60s. What once considers counter culture is now mainstream, and Desigual in this outing sought to take consumers back to what was once outré, concentrating on elements of the counter culture movements that are wearable and consumer friendly.

Collages1117As always, Desigual’s genius is in its separates and for its fall 2017 collection its outerwear is perhaps its best distillation on outerwear ever.  Layering also plays a key role in Desigual’s style DNA and works extremely well with its celebration of counter cultures.

Collages1119Though this collection is perhaps a homage to the past subcultures, the collection is not weighted down by this reference point. The garments have a youthfulness and freshness that though giving a nod to the past is totally accessible to modern consumers.

Images courtesy of Getty Images

Images courtesy of Getty Images

If there is one drawback to this collection, as in seasons past, some of the best pieces in Desigual’s collections never end up in retails stores. This fall 2017 is chocked full of great garments and hopefully many of these great looks will be accessible to consumers.

—William S. Gooch

Nicholas K Fall 2017

 

Don’t you know
They’re talkin’ ’bout a revolution
It sounds like a whisper
Don’t you know
They’re talkin’ about a revolution

—Tracy Chapman

 

wetransfer-41fe2bNicholas K is talking about a revolution, a revolution of sorts in their approach to their design aesthetic. And it is not a whisper, but an in-your-face political expression made evident in their fall 2017 collection.

Nicholas K has established itself as a brand that has successfully married a nomadic chic aesthetic with an urban chic style. For over one decade Nicholas K has revisited their design DNA, finding new and interesting ways to expand upon a signature looks that immediately identifiable. And for fall 2017 the brand’s signature aesthetic is still in place. However, Nicholas K’s fall 2017 collection does not begin and finish with their nomadic chic aesthetic.

Collages1111Realizing that fashion is a microcosm of society and culture in real time, Nicholas K’s fall 2017 collection drew heavily from revolutionary movements of the last 50 years, seen through the prism of the current political landscape of uncertainty, xenophobia, isolationism, and retraction. And though this revolutionary-inspired collection at its core pays homage to the hip-hop movement of the 1990s with its community building and solidarity-infused musical messages—think Arrested Development, Erykah Badu, and Soul II Soul—, those musical messages had their roots in the liberation movements of the 60s and 70s.

This intersectionality of music, movement, and political uncertainties is expressed in fall 2017 collection that celebrates determined, powerful women who have a clear fashion voice and wear their humanity and political convictions on their bodies. And in this collection that woman is sexy, fashion-forward and oh so chic! In common language, this season the Nicholas K woman is a powerful, bad ass b*tch!!

Collages1112Nicholas K in their fall 2017 collection brought back some iconic and interesting fashion elements—you could say some vintage looks. This vintage looks were detailed, layered, and paired in ways that expressed a modern woman’s ability to combine sensuality, consciousness, and style. These fashion adjectives are no longer disparate bedfellows, but meet at the intersection of how the current style diva expresses her raison d’etre.

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Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

With 90s hip-hop style-music featuring Latasha Alcindor blaring in the background, the opening looks—Black Power berets, metallic trench coats, crush velvet jackets, and leather wrap dresses— creative directors Christopher and Nicholas Kuntz demonstrated that they have their pulses on the current wave of fashion meeting political influences. Standout looks in the collection, and there were many, include the brand’s gold metallic shearling coat with gold beret and gold metallic skirt, red leather wrap dress with red beret, burnt orange crush velvet jacket with burnt orange crush velvet breeches, and tan wrap blouse with tan oversized parka.

—William S. Gooch

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