Fashion News Alert: Victoria’s Secret Abandons TV, Kering Vows to Hire Only 18+ Models, Condé Nast Sells Brides, and Travis Scott’s Sneakers Sell Out

Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

For the past couple of seasons, things have been tough for Victoria’s Secret. The company is experiencing a dramatic decline in sales, criticism that their annual Victoria’s Secret show is sexist and out of touch with how modern women want to be seen, and shrinking viewership of their television spectacular.

Due to all these factors, Victoria’s Secret has decided to eliminate their annual broadcasted Victoria’s Secret show. “For the past few months, we’ve said that we are taking a fresh look at every aspect of our business,” the company said in a memo sent to employees by Chief Executive Les Wexner. “We have decided to re-think the traditional Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. Going forward we don’t believe network television is the right fit.”

Once the go-to brand in women’s lingerie, Victoria’s Secret has seen their market domination invaded by lingerie brands that offer a similar product at lower prices. Concurrently, their annual television special has declined in viewership from a high of 12 million in 2001 to just 3.3 American households in 2018.

Image courtesy of reddit.com

Travis Scott sells out

Talk about selling out quickly!! Travis Scott’s collaborative sneakers, Air Jordan 1 High OG TS, with Nike Inc. sold out within hours of its general release on Saturday, May 11.

The sneakers are currently retailing for $175. However, after selling out, some are being resold for upward of $1000.

The sneakers were not the only things that sold out in the collaboration between Scott and Nike on Nike’s website. Scott’s shirts and apparel also sold out. Wow, it must be nice to be a part of the Travis Scott tribe!!

Image courtesy of euronews.com

Over 18 is the charm

French fashion holding company Kering has agreed to only employ models aged over 18 years of age. There has been a lot of criticism of fashion brands, casting agents and model management companies looking to employ models that are under the age of 18. These ethical conversations around underaged models have been going on the fashion industry for decades. Kering is one of the first big fashion brand holding companies that is committed to doing something about it.

 Kering has committed to not hiring underaged models starting in 2020. “We believe that we have a responsibility to put forward the best possible practices in the luxury sector and we hope to create a movement that will encourage others to follow suit,” said Kering’s chairman and chief executive François-Henri Pinault.

 Kering is extending the 18+ age requirement to fashion campaigns, runway show and brand promotion. Kering owns Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron, Christopher Kane, Brioni, and many others.

Image courtesy of Brides

Brides buyout

According to The New York Times, Condé Nast has sold Brides magazine. Brides magazine has been sold to Dotdash.

“It wasn’t like there was crazy bidding at the end,” said Neil Vogel, the head of Dotdash, which is part of InterActiveCorp (IAC), the company behind Tinder, Match and OKCupid. “It’s clear to us that there wasn’t a ton of investment behind this in the last few years.” “We’re not buying this for print,” Mr. Vogel said. “We’re buying this for the editorial team and for digital.”

 As the oldest bridal magazine—launched in 1934—at one time Brides magazine was one of Condé Nast’s most profitable print publication. Unfortunately, circulation for Brides magazine has fallen by 4% over the past few years. Brides with Golf Digest was put up for sale in the summer of 2018. Both Condé Nast publications have found buyers.

Vogel intends to scrap the current print version of Brides and redesign the publication for a savvy digital audience. Dotdash is the current incarnation of About.com, which was sold to The New York Times in 2005, and sold again to IAC in 2012. IAC is owned by media mogul billionaire Barry Diller.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Tyra Banks Returns to Sports Illustrated, Rihanna’s Fenty Maison, NYFW Shrinks to Five Days, and Goodbye Max Azria

Photo courtesy of Sports Illustrated

Supermodel/Media Mogul Tyra Banks has returned to Sports Illustrateds Swimwear edition. The 45-year-old Banks has graced the cover of Sports Illustrated three times prior to the 2019 cover.”This is for everybody that has been told that they are not good enough because of their body, their age, their everything,” Banks told her 6.3 million followers on Instagram.

“Since Tyra’s first cover in 1996, she’s transformed herself into nothing less than a mogul, a cultural force and a supernova of inspiration and empowerment,” said SI Swimsuit Editor, MJ Day, adding: “Alex Morgan stands for feminine strength and power—using her voice to fight for gender discrimination and equal pay and Camille Kostek, only a year after we discovered her in our annual Model Search casting, marks the launch of a career swimming in potential. These women emulate determination to own who they are and demonstrate how limitless they can be.”

The theme for the 2019 Sports Illustrated Swimwear edition is “Shattered Perceptions.” The issue contains 34 women, featuring seven athletes, four mother, and six rookies.

Photo courtesy of Stephen Lovekin/Variety/REX/Shutterstock

Rihanna’s house

LVMH has finally announced they will launch Fenty Maison, Rihanna’s new luxury clothing line. Fenty Maison will be based in Paris and will be composed on accessories, shoes and ready-to-wear.

“Designing a line like this with LVMH is an incredibly special moment for us,” Rihanna explained in a press release. “Mr. Arnault has given me a unique opportunity to develop a fashion house in a luxury sector, with no artistic limits. I couldn’t imagine a better partner both creatively and business-wise, and I’m ready for the world to see what we have built together.”

According to The New York Times, Rihanna is the first woman to create a fashion brand at LVMH, and the first woman of color to helm a LVMH fashion brand. Bravo and kudos to Rihanna!!

Photo courtesy of stylecrave.com

Fashion week shrinks

The CFDA announced today that New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) will be shortened to five days instead of its current seven-day schedule. Some years back NYFW was cut down from eight days to seven, starting on Thursday and lasting through the Wednesday of the following week.

With the new schedule, NYFWS will commence on Friday and end on Wednesday week. The dates set for next season are September 6 through September 11. “This effort is not only for U.S. industry and talent but will also serve as the change needed to further globalize New York Fashion Week,” explained the CFDA on its website. 

The call for this change seems to be coming from incoming CFDA Chairman Tom Ford. Ford is looking to revamp NYFWS, perhaps in the fashion week models that are employed in Europe.

NYFWS has been in decline for the past few years, and a revamp and revitalization are necessary to keep NYFWS as one of the premier global fashion weeks. Ford will not start his position at the CFDA until 2020.

Photo courtesy of Theo Wargo/WireImage

Bye, bye Max

The fashion world mourns the loss of Max Azria. Max Azria was one of the most beloved fashion designers of the late 80s and 90s, launching his fashion brand, BCBG Max Azria, in 1989.

The Tunisian-born Max Azria moved with his family to Paris as a young boy. With his brother Serge, Max Axria founded a textile company that supplied textiles to Sentier, on of Paris oldest garment districts.

After selling the business in 1981, Max Azria moved to the US and launched his women’s luxury line BCBG Max Azria which over time morphed into a company that would acquire Herve Leger, Dorotennis and Manoukian. For most of the past two decades, BCBG has been a constant presence at New York Fashion Week.

In 2016, Max Azria stepped down in his executive role at BCBG, with the company filing for bankruptcy a year later. Marquee Group now owns BCGG Max Azria and BCBGeneration.

After a long illness, Max Azria died at the age of 70 at his home in Houston. He is survived by his wife Lubov and his three children.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Keanu Reeves’ New Gig, Hajibs and Burkinis in Sports Illustrated, Allen Onyia and True Religion, Gucci Could Hit the €10 Billion Mark, and Bluefly on the Auction Block

Image courtesy of Sports Illustrated

Sports Illustrated’s annual swimwear edition for the first time will feature a Muslim model in a hajib and a burkini. Somali-American model Halima Aden is the chosen model for this historic issue.”Growing up in the States, I never really felt represented because I never could flip through a magazine and see a girl who was wearing a hijab,” Aden said in a video tweeted by the magazine, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. Halima Aden, 21, has appeared on the cover of British Vogue and walked in fashion shows during New York Fashion Week.

Image courtesy of Saint Laurent

Keanu for Saint Laurent

Keanu Reeves is the new face of Saint Laurent’s fall 2019 collection.  For the past few seasons, Saint Laurent has used a slew of celebrities, namely Travis Scott, Zoe Kravitz, Courtney Love, Marilyn Manson, Vincent Gallo, and others.

Reeves now steps into the fray. The campaign is photographed by David Sims with Reeves in a striped blazer, dark shirt and aviator sunglasses, while the second had Reeves in jeans and a leather jacket.

Image courtesy of red-carpetfashionawards.com

Gucci explosion

2018 was a banner year for Gucci with €8.3 billion in revenue and a 25% growth rate for the first quarter of 2019. If Gucci experiences a sales growth of 21% for all of 2019, Gucci could hit its target of being of 10 billion in revenue for 2019. Experts predict that Gucci will fall short of the €10 billion goal, only hitting €9.7 billion.

The blackface/turtleneck scandal did not appear to hurt Gucci’s sales growth, though a slew of celebrities and influencers vowed to stop supporting the brand because of the racially insensitive scandal. Millennials made the largest consumer base—62 percentfor Gucci in 2018. Gucci plans to continue this incredible market growth by branching into cosmetics. Its recently launched fragrances lines have done very well.

Image courtesy of tumblr.com

Allen Onyia’s new job

If you want to know how being a social media influencer with a large following pays off, just ask Allen Onyia. Onyia, who is the co-founder of high-end, lifestyle magazine UpScale Hype, has been named the new artistic director of True Religion. Onyia started UpScaleHype with his brother Kyle in 2008. In 2018 Onyia’s profile was named by GQ as Menswear’s Most Important Instagram Account.” 

Onyia will have the task of creating a new vision for the Los Angeles-based denim company. True Religion filed for Chapter11 bankruptcy in 2017 which many believe was brought on by the popularity of athleisure wear and streetwear. True Religion was most viable in the industry when its brand of denim was celebrated as an historic denim brand.

“I have always admired True Religion as an iconic brand with deep roots in the streetwear category,” said Onyia in a release. “I am thrilled to join the team and bring my vision to reestablish a brand people can associate with, in this new age of streetwear.   “We have been driving towards this watershed moment since I joined the Company,” added True Religion CEO Chelsea Grayson. “I am excited to work with Allen to return True Religion to its rightful place among streetwear leaders.”

Onyia, good luck!!

Image courtesy of mozu.com

Bluefly seeks a buyer

Bluefly.com is for sale. The online retailer of off-priced women’s and men’s clothing recently announced that its domain name, trademarks, customer data and associated purchase data, as well as the company’s social media profiles is for sale.

Bluefly launched in 1998 as an off-priced clothing e-commerce site. In 2018 the e-commerce site transitioned to a platform powered by technology company Mirakl. In February Bluefly shut down its offices in New York City’s Garment District and filed Chapter 7 banckruptcy. Though Bluefly has financial assets between $500,000 and a million dollars its debts and liabilities are around $10 million.

“The Bluefly.com brand is well-recognized by women of all ages, with a high concentration among Generation X and millennial customers, a highly loyal and desirable demographic,” said Richelle Kalnit, Hilco Streambank senior vice president, as reported in a fashionnetwork.com article. “There is an exciting opportunity to relaunch the brand and re-engage with the Bluefly.com customer.”

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Marchesa’s Comeback, Australia Says Goodbye to ELLERY, Schiaparelli Has a New Director and Olivia Munn’s Fashion Backlash

Image courtesy of refinery29.com

Actress/model Olivia Munn has slammed the fashion blog Go Fug Yourself for criticizing Peter Pilotto stripped suit she wore to a gala for the Asian non-profit Apex for Youth. “This is just kinda like she got roped into making a sequel to “American Hustle” that ended up going straight to on-demand. Things could be worse,” said the critique on Go Fug Yourself as detailed on yahoolifestyle.com.Earlier in the month. Munn in a frilly Schiaparelli dress was described by Go Fug Yourself writer Jessica Morgan as though she looked like she was “peeing a wedding veil.” Go Fug Yourself is run by writers Jessica Morgan and Heather Cocks.

Munn clapped back at the site by posting an essay explaining that sites like Go Fug Yourself contribute to the “perpetual minimization of women and [propagating] the idea that our worth is predominately (or singularly) tied to our looks.” Morgan and Cocks have remained mum on their Olivia Munn wardrobe choices critiques.

That said; writers from Fashionista and Jezebel have given support to writers Morgan and Cocks by stating that criticizing what celebrities are wearing on red carpets is par for the course in an industry that is obsessed with celebrity fashion. Supporters also detailed that writers at Go Fug Yourself only criticizes the garments, never the celebrities’ physical appearance. They failed to mention all the clicks and likes sites of Go Fug Yourself’s ilk get from snarky celebrity comments.

Marchesa Bridal spring 2020 image courtesy of vogue.com

Marchesa’s resurgence

After two years of being on the downlow, so to speak, luxury brand Marchesa is aiming for a resurgence. Georgina Chapman and creative partner Keren Craig have decided to return Marchesa to the spotlight by showing the Marchesa Couture Bridal collection at the Valmont Barcelona Bridal Week. The Marchesa bridal show took place on April 24.

“We are thrilled to have the opportunity and the [honor] to unveil our creations in a very intimate way at the Barcelona Bridal Night,” commented the designers before the show.  The bridal collection was inspired by Rainer Maria Rilke’s Pathways poem was presented among a sea of orchids. 

Marchesa, founded in 2004, established itself as a go-to luxury based on its infinity for dressing many celebrities for red-carpet events and award ceremonies. After the Weinstein sexual misconduct allegations, many top celebrities abandoned the brand. (Harvey Weinstein was the husband of Marchesa co-founder Georgina Chapman.)

In the aftermath of the Weinstein scandal, Chapman and Craig have sought to re-establish Marchesa in the European market. Valmont Barcelona Bridal Week is one of the first steps in that direction.

ELLERY fall 2019 images courtesy of artistgroup.com

Australia’s loss

Kym Ellery is shuttering her eponymous brand ELLERY’s Australian location. After struggling with high manufacturing cost and being in an isolated fashion market, one of Australia’s most popular brand after what could be called 12 successful years in the market is closing its doors. Last week ELLERY closed its two Sydney stores and its Sydney-based production facility, Elleryland, has also closed.

“I am very proud to have built an independent, globally [recognized] fashion house from my home, Australia. [But] it has not been without its challenges,” the designer said in a statement released on Tuesday, as reported in fashionetwork.com. “Unfortunately, running the production out of Australia proved to be commercially unsustainable. As a result of some poor strategic decisions that were made, and the high cost of manufacturing in Australia, we have been left with no choice but to close Elleryland, our production facility and Australian operations company. “I have always championed Australian manufacturing, and this decision was incredibly difficult to make,” she concluded.

The brand will maintain its trademark and Paris-based design company, which will not be affected by the Australian closure. ELLERY will move its headquarters and chief operating offices to some European location.

In recent years ELLERY has shown its collections during Paris Fashion Week and is a member of the Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode. Several years ago, ELLERY showed in New York City during New York Fashion Week to critical acclaim.

Image courtesy of harpersbazaar.com

A new boss at Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli has a new creative director, Daniel Roseberry. Daniel Roseberry has spent the last 10 years working at Thom Browne as head of the women’s and men’s collections.

“It is my great honor and my joy to pick up where Mme. Schiaparelli left off some 85 years ago. Schiaparelli was a master of the modern; her work reflected the chaos and hope of the turbulent era in which she lived. Today, we find ourselves asking similarly big, identity-shaping questions of our own: What does art look like? What is identity? How do we dress for the end of the world,” explains Rosewood.  
“Schiaparelli answered these questions with candor and humor, but one of her greatest legacies may be her commitment to fantasy, her understanding that we need fantasy in complicated times. I want to offer my own answers to these questions and offer a fantasy—a dream—that feels relevant, and necessary, for today.”

The House of Schiaparelli was taken over by billionaire Diego della Valle in 2007.  The noted couture house, as of late, has made a concerted effort to become more a part of the fashion mainstream by launching a capsule in Bergdorf Goodman in December 2018 and launching an accessories and ready-to-wear capsule collection that popped up in stores in September.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Jennifer Lopez Named CFDA Fashion Icon, Donald Glover Collaborates with Adidas, Irina Shayk’s New Gig, and Bye Bye Corinne Cobson

 

Image courtesy of insidere.com

Jennifer Lopez has been awarded many accolades from Billboard Award Icon, Hollywood Walk of Fame to MTV Music Awards and Glamour Woman of the Year. Now, she had another award to her treasure chest of awards.

Jennifer Lopez has been featured on the covers of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, Marie Claire, Glamour, W, and Vanity Fair. Lopez’s fashion and beauty products have equaled in sales up to $1 billion. Jennifer Lopez will receive the 2019 CFDA Fashion Icon Award on June 3 at the Brooklyn Museum. 

Image courtesy of consequencesofsound,com

Busy Donald
Donald Glover has many projects on his plate; a series of short films, performing a Coachella, a recently released short film starring Rihanna. Well, add to this very busy palette a collaboration with Adidas, and Glover is quickly becoming a master of multi-tasking.

“With this project, I wanted to encourage people to think about how their stories can be told on their feet,” Glover explains in a recent article on dailyfrontrow.com. “Value isn’t quantified by what you wear, rather the experiences from them. And you make the decision on what works for you, you live through your own lens. The partnership for me is about being able to exemplify what doing your own thing truly looks and feels like.”

Donald Glover Presents will contain his take of three classic Adidas sneaks. The Nizza, the Continental 80, and the Lacombe will come in a subtle white. The surreal spots on the sneaks reflect fragmented moments between Glover and M’onique.

Donald Glover Presents will be available globally on April 26. Price points range from $80 to $100.

Images courtesy of star2.com

Irina Shayk smells purty
Supermodel Irina Shayk has a new job. Shayk has been named the new face of Jean-Paul Gaultier’s “Scandal A Paris” eau de toilette, as well as a brand ambassador of the fragrance. “Scandal A Paris” is the newest fragrance in Gaultier’s “Scandal” fragrance line.

The “Scandal” fragrance line is distinguished by notes that are fresh, light with a touch gourmand, such as pear, jasmine, and honey. The “Scandal” fragrance line embodies that powerful, independent woman who is sexy and not afraid to standout.

The video from the “Scandal A Paris” fragrance is shot in black and white and features Shayk, Rossy de Palma, and Jean-Paul Gaultier himself. Shayk is seen in high slit black skit, revealing her gamine legs with a black blazer with sexy black lace underneath. In the video as Shayk enters a restaurant she grabs attention with all heads turning toward her.

Image courtesy of dnmag.com

Au revoir Corinne
French fashion designer Corinne Cobson has passed away. Cobson rose to prominence in the 1990s with her skill and acuity at creating garments that went beyond gender. She was one of the first fashion designer to have models on the runway without stockings or tights with her models clad in low-cut sweaters and skintight jeans.

Throughout her career, Corinne Cobson collaborated with many brands including L’Oreal and Cacharel. Cobson had recently dabbled in interior design, creating a collection of sofas and chairs.

Corinne Cobson is survived by her husband Tanguy Loyzance. She was 62 years old.

—William S. Gooch

Weekend Fashion News Alert: Olivia Palermo Collaborates with Karl Lagerfeld, Libertine Abandons NYFW, Ruby Rose’s New Gig, and Elizabeth and James Teams with Kohls

Images courtesy of people.com

Olivia Palermo’s capsule collection collaboration with Karl Lagerfeld’s namesake brand is set to launch in Dubai on June 12 in the Lagerfeld Dubai store. The capsule collection was revealed to the press in Paris on Tuesday.The capsule collection contains 19 pieces, as well as four bags, inspired by Lagerfeld’s expressionist aesthetic and Palermo’s native New York. “I wanted to respect the aesthetic of Karl Lagerfeld with an added sporty New York feel. Clothes that are stylish and cool,” said Palermo in a phone call, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

The global launch of the collaborative capsule collection will take place of June 27, presenting in all Lagerfeld flagship stores with the bespoke pieces being available online.  The worldwide campaign will store Olivia Palermo and will be shot by Chris Coles in Paris.  

Image courtesy of dailymail.com

G-Star and Ruby Rose

Actress and TV host Ruby Rose has a new job. Ruby Rose is the new brand ambassador for G-Star and will be featured in black and white images for the brand’s new campaign that feature her rebellious spirit.

“I’ve always been a fan of G-Star, their attitude really aligns with my passion and respect for our planet. In this specific campaign, I love how G-Star motivates us to embrace who we are and feel confident in doing so. Denim has a magical way of attributing to that confidence,” the actress said in a statement.

Supermodel Jon Kortajarena will be featured in a short video with Ruby Rose. The entire campaign will be launched officially on April 15.

Libertine spring 2019 images courtesy of fashionreverie.com

Bye, bye New York Fashion Week

Another bites the dust, well when it comes to New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). In the past few years NYFWS has experienced fashion designers defecting to other international fashion weeks. Tommy Hilfiger, Monique Lhuillier, Jeremy Scott, Rebecca Minskoff, Reem Acra, Vera Wang, and Venexiana, former mainstays of NYFWS, no longer present collection in New York City. Now another NYFWS regular has jumped ship.

Libertine will present its fall 2019 show in Los Angeles instead of New York City on April 26. The brand did not show in New York City in February. Los Angeles is the hometown of Libertine founder and creative director Johnson Hartig.

Founded in 2001, Libertine has been a mainstay of NYFWS for almost two decades; however, the brand is readjusting its audience by showing at Los Angeles’ history Wilshire Ebell Theatre. This fall 2019 collection will be a collaboration with the Jimi Hendrix estate. The collection will be comprised of pieces designed by Hendrix’s sister Janie.

Images of Elizabeth and James spring 2019 courtesy of businessoffashion.com

The Olsen twins and Kohls

Elizabeth and James, the mid-priced line designed by Ashley and Mary Kate Olsen is looking for new life. And the brand is looking for new life at mega-retail discount store Kohls.

Kohls will now exclusively sell Elizabeth and James, as the Olsen twins shuttered the Elizabeth and James’s store in September of 2018 and laid off its staff and design team due to poor retail sales. The Olsen twins entered to a licensing agreement with Kohls so that the Elizabeth and James brand would continue and to reach a broader audience.  

“Our vision for Elizabeth and James is to deliver a lifestyle brand that offers women access to premium fashion at an affordable price without sacrificing quality and fit,” Mary-Kate Olsen said in a press release. “Kohl’s is the right partner to take our brand into a new era, while staying true to the high-quality, fashion-forward designs that our loyal brand enthusiasts expect from us.”

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Supreme Collaborates with Jean-Paul Gaultier, Cavalli Closes Stores in the US, Carine Roitfeld’s New Gig, and Project Runway All Star’s Fake Sponsorship

Image courtesy of Entertainment Tonight

The “Project Runway: All Stars” Season 7 finale revealed something that was a little off putting. That said; based on this unusual series of events, the Trump Administration is not the only institution screaming about fake media.Apparently, “Project Runway: All Stars’” JC Penny’s sponsorship never existed.  According to The New York Times, JC Penny only supplied items for the accessories wall. And though host Melissa Milano detailed that winning looks per episode would be available at JC Penny’s, that turned out not to be the case.

Due to the Harvey Weinstein’s scandals, JC Penny’s dissolved its relationship with “Project Runway: All Stars.” The Weinstein Company was the producer of the show until the company filed for bankruptcy in 2018.

Unbeknownst to viewers, “Project Runway: All Stars” Season 7 was filmed in the summer of 2017 but didn’t officially air until January 2019. The JC Penny relationship had dissolved by the time season 7 aired. So, Melissa Milano didn’t create a fake sponsorship, the timing was just way off.

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

Jean-Paul Gaultier and Supreme

Fashion collaborations continue. The latest designer to jump into the collaboration pool is Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The iconic French designer will collaborate with New York-based street and skateboard clothing line, Supreme. The collaboration was announced on Supreme’s Instagram account.

The first looks from this collaboration will be released in Supreme stores and on its website on April 11. True to form, it is expected that Supreme will release a limited amount at first, causing fans of the brand to clamber for the limited releases.

Image courtesy of humblerich.com

Cavalli shutters US stores

For those not aware, Roberto Cavalli’s fashion brand has been experiencing major retail losses. This decline in sales has forced the company to close operations in the US.

In the market for new investors, Cavalli is using these draconian methods to prove that the company is attempting to solve its retail decline challenges. The US market suffered the biggest retail losses of any other market.

“It’s been a very difficult market for the brand for a long time and losses were too high. All of Roberto Cavalli’s operations in the country are currently suspended,” the company told fashionetwork.com. On March 29, it was announced the Roberto Cavalli brand is filing for composition through the Court of Milan, a safeguarding measure which will allow the company to continue its operations, while also reassuring suppliers and creditors, as well as potential buyers. The brand “intends to utilize a well-defined legal mechanism arranged by the legislator to manage and overcome critical phases that could also lead to the suspension of some activities in foreign countries.”

Clessidra, which controls 90% of the brand’s capital has been looking to sell its stake in Cavalli for some time. Clessidra has approached Bluestar Capital, that owns Bebe, Catherine Malandrino, Tahari, and Brookstone, to invest in Cavalli.

Though Cavalli has not released its 2018 sales report, in 2017 Europe formed 45% of total sales with the US comprising 27% of sales. There are seven Cavalli stores, four outlets, and a concession in the US, employing 93 workers.

Image by Joanne Davidson/REX/Shutterstock

Carine after Karl

Former Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld is moving up in the world. It has been announced that Roitfeld is the official style advisor to the Karl Lagerfeld brand. Roitfeld’s new position will be active for the next three seasons with her first collection coming out for the spring 2020 season.

“I am honored and grateful for having had the opportunity to work with Karl for so many years (…) He is forever a legend, and he redefined the meaning of fashion, photography and stardom. It is an honor to collaborate as style adviser with the label bearing his name, to disseminate his signature vision in the course of the next three seasons,” said Roitfeld in a fashionnetwork.com article.

At the time of his death, Karl Lagerfeld had already appointed a creative director, Hun Kim. Kim and Roitfeld will collaborate on the brand’s spring 2020 collection which Lagerfeld had started designing before his death.

We already have a creative team appointed by [Lagerfeld], led by Creative Director Hun Kim, who was picked by Karl Lagerfeld himself, explained the brand’s CEO Pier Paolo Righi “With the talent of Carine Roitfeld as style adviser, we will celebrate Karl’s iconic design aesthetic and keep it alive.”

William S. Gooch

Breaking Fashion News: Pat Cleveland Falls Ill

Image courtesy of Hunger TV

Supermodel Pat Cleveland has been diagnosed with colon cancer. While in Paris with her top model daughter, Anna Cleveland, for the L’Oreal fashion show, Pat Cleveland began to experience excruciating abdominal pain. While hospitalized in Paris, it was discovered that Cleveland has colon cancer. Cleveland has suffered from stomach and digestive issues for some time. There has been no admission of the stage of Cleveland’s cancer.Cleveland and her husband Paul van Ravenstein have formed a GoFundMe account to help pay for cancer treatment. The GoFundMe goal is $150,000 and in 24 hours Cleveland has raised $54, 000. Currently, Cleveland only has Medicare for health insurance.

Pat Cleveland with daughter Anna Cleveland image courtesy of vogue.com

“This is coming out of left field. She’s healthy, she’s vegan,” said Paul van Ravenstein in a harpersbazaar.com article. “She doesn’t drink, she doesn’t smoke. I thought we had her checked four or five years ago. But I went to the hospital here near our house and it seems the last time she was checked was in 2007. That’s too long. At a certain age, you have to do it every five years. Now I just want her back to her young self. She’s a very strong person so she’s going to be back. And I’m glad for that.”Cleveland was one of the first black models to achieve industry fame in the late 1960s.  Pat Cleveland started her career as an Ebony Fashion Fair model at the age of 15. Later, she worked with just iconic designers and brands as Halston, Stephen Burrows, Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, Valentino, and most of the most famous European and American fashion houses.

Pat Cleveland in the Tommy Hilfiger fall 2019 show image courtesy of elle.com

Pat Cleveland’s modeling career spans over five decades. For the fall 2019 season, Pat Cleveland walked for Hellessy, Missoni, and Tommy Hilfiger. Cleveland is 68 years old.

—Staff

Fashion News Alert: Tommy Hilfiger Closes Fifth Avenue Flagship, Pharrell Williams Collaborates with Chanel Again, Rita Ora’s New Collab, and L’Officiel Russia Set to Relaunch

Photo courtesy of thesource.com

Pharrell Williams has had a relationship with Chanel for several years now. Williams caps off this established relationship by designing a capsule collection for Chanel with Williams starring in this capsule collection’s campaign. Top models Soo Joo Park, Yoon Young Bae, Adesuwa Aighewi, Alton Mason, and Anok Yai will also appear alongside Pharrell Williams in the video.The Chanel-Pharrell collection contains about 40 items, with 12 being ready-to-wear pieces that marry Chanel’s signature motifs with the American rapper’s urban vibe. In accordance with Chanel’s long-standing tradition of borrowing from men’s wardrobes, this capsule collection also follows suit. This capsule collection will include short and long dresses, tee shirts in a range of colors, jewelry, sunglasses, leather goods, and a selection of shoes including sneakers, and mules.

The Chanel-Pharrell collection will be available in a select Chanel stores globally from April 4.

Photo courtesy of hypebeast.com

Tommy Exits Fifth Avenue

As brick and mortar stores continue to struggle in the US, Tommy Hilfiger closes its Fifth Avenue flagship store in Manhattan. Hilfiger will also close its store in Miami located on Collins Avenue.

“In line with our strategic objective to further reach and engage with digitally-savvy North American consumers, we will focus on next generation retail experiences and partnerships to stay ahead of today’s continuously changing shopping habits and preferences,” said Tommy Hilfiger CEO Daniel Grieder in an official statement given to fashionnetwork.com. “This means we are reshaping our retail landscape in North America, closing the New York City Fifth Avenue Tommy Hilfiger store and the Tommy Hilfiger store on Collins Avenue in Miami, Florida.” 

“Leveraging our Store-of-the-Future concepts rolled out in the global retail landscape, going forward, North America will be the lighthouse region to develop and test new modular, digitally-infused retail concepts,” Grieder continues. “We continue to invest in tommy.com and the ongoing expansion of strong wholesale distribution partners that keep consumers at the heart of our brand.”

Tommy Hilfiger’s Fifth Avenue Flagship store opened in 2009. Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue in recent years has experienced several major brick and mortar closings which include Lord & Taylor, Henri Bendel’s, Abercrombie & Fitch, and Ralph Lauren’s Polo flagship store.

Photo courtesy of red-carpetfashionawards.com

Rita and Escada

In celebration of Escada’s signature ‘Heart’ bag, Escada has teamed up with Rita Ora for a new take on the ‘Heart’ bag created in Rita Ora’s favorite shad of bright, bold red.

“I loved the history of Escada. I really did my research, looking at all the campaigns and looking at the consistency, what the thread was, in everything that Escada did. It was confident women, independent women, strong women. I loved the bold colors that they used to use. It was a risk, and I wanted to bring that history and heritage back. Red was the thread that I saw. It’s their trademark color [with] the gold Escada logo, so I wanted to do everything red. It’s my favorite color too (my favorite lip color). It represents strength, passion, sexuality, confidence, anything—you name it! It’s a very bold color, and if I was to do something with them, I wanted it to feel bold, confident, and strong. So, I thoughtlet’s just dip it all in red,explained Ora as detailed in a fashionweekdaily.com article.

Rita Ora is a native of Kosovo and escaped to London as a child so that her family could get away from the internal conflicts in her native country. That said; a portion of the proceeds from the sale of Escada’s ‘Heart’ bag will go to Women for Women International, an organization that funds classes and training programs for women in conflict-bruised countries like Kosovo. “I recently spoke to the prime minister, and a lot is happening, but [economic] progress is also slow; it’s a fresh war,” says Ora, also a UNICEF ambassador, of the Kosovo War’s aftermath. “All I can do is bring awareness to it and do something to help them get back on their feet.”

Escada’s Heart Bag by Rita Ora retails for $1,195 and is available in stores and online.

Photo courtesy of acmggroup.info

L’Officiel Russia is on its way back

If you’ve following all the controversy surrounding L’Officiel Russia, you will be aware that the magazine has shut down. Well, it appears that L’Officiel Russia is on its way back.

L’Officiel Russia is set to relaunch both its print and digital editions with its print editions to transition to a three-issues a year. The first print edition is due to come out in August 2019 with Edward Dorozhkin acting as editor-in-chief for both the print and digital editions.

L’Officiel Russia was acquired from its former owner Vladimir Pomukchinsky by ACMG Group in 2014. However, in 2018 Vladimir Pomukchinsky sued ACMG Group, challenging the 2014 acquisition. Pomuchinsky won his lawsuit. During the process of the legal action L’Officiel Russia was shut down.

—William Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Jason Wu Pairs with Eloquii, Gucci Invests Millions in Diversity, Tom Ford Takes Over at the CFDA, and Lacoste Celebrates Keith Haring

Image courtesy of formoptic.com

OK, it has all come to past. Tom Ford has been named chairman of the Council Federation of Fashion Designers (CFDA). His new job goes into effect on January 1, 2020.Tom Ford takes over the role of chairman from Diane von Furstenberg, who helmed the CFDA for thirteen years. Ford has been a member of the CFDA since 2000 and has won seven CFDA awards, winning the CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year in 2015.

One of the many challenges that Tom Ford will face in taking over the chairmanship of CFDA is New York Fashion Week (NYFW). NYFW is rumored to be moving to The Shed at the newly opened Hudson Yards for the spring 2020 season.

Ford will continue to helm his eponymous fashion label while he serves as chairman of the CFDA. Ford launched his namesake label in 2005.

Image courtesy of harpersbazaar.com

Gucci’s remedy for diversity issues

In response to the clap backs and the backlash around Gucci’s racially insensitive black jumpsuit with a collar image that evoked images of black minstrels, Gucci has launched the “Gucci Changemakers” program. The “Gucci Changemakers” initiative was created to have a “lasting social impact in our communities and within the fashion industry,” Gucci explained through its social media platforms.

Coincidentally, the black turtleneck jumpsuit in question was immediately pulled from stores as a result of the controversy. “We consider diversity to be a fundamental value to be fully upheld, respected, and at the forefront of every decision we make. We are fully committed to increasing diversity throughout our organization and turning this incident into a powerful learning moment for the Gucci team and beyond,” said the house in an official statement published at the time, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

Gucci will invest $10 million dollars into the “Gucci Changemakers.” “I believe in dialogue, building bridges and taking quick action. This is why, we started working immediately on the long-term infrastructure at Gucci to address our shortcomings,” said Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri in a press release. “And now through our Changemakers program, we will invest important resources to unify and strengthen our communities across North America, with a focus on programs that will impact youth and the African-American community.”

Hmm, time will tell!!

Image courtesy of authenticallyemmie.com

Jason Wu x Eloquii

Spring 2019 promises to be another season of fashion collaborations. Jason Wu is partnered with plus-size brand Eloquii. This collaborative effort will focus on women from size 14 and up. Jason Wu previously partnered with Eloquii for a Holiday 2018 capsule collection.

“I was so happy to work with Eloquii again on a spring capsule collection that is beautifully feminine and refined,” Wu said of the collaboration. “I especially love the freshness of the floral pieces that are perfect for the warmer season.”

The 26-piece Jason Wu x Eloquii Spring 2019 series includes dresses, tees, blouses, blazers, trousers and skirts, with special attention given to colorful motifs such as pinstripes and florals in a cheerful palette that riffs on blues, greens, yellows, and whites. Prices points range between $59.95 to$149.95.

Image courtesy of viacom.it

Lacoste looks to Keith Haring

Fashion collaborations continue to florish, from Tommy Hilfiger partnering with Zendaya and Gigi Hadid, Reebok teams up with Cardi B, Alexander Wang and Uniqlo, and the list goes on and on and Lacoste collaborating with a brand that will make fashion fans’ hearts quiver.

Lacoste, in collaboration with Artestar, is primed to launch a ready-to-wear and accessories collection celebrating the art of Keith Haring. The collaborative collection pays tribute to Keith Harings’ expressions of bold color, patterns, and pop art of the 1980s. Two of the most recognizable motifs from the collection will be Harings’ “Barking Dog” and “Heart” motif.

The Keith Haring x Lacoste capsule includes the brand’s iconic polo shirts—finished with various motifs—s well as shirts, sweaters, dresses, jackets, swimwear, sneakers, a reversible tote bag and even watches. The Keith Haring x Lacoste capsule collection launches on March 27 on the Lacoste e-commerce store and select Lacoste stores.

—William S. Gooch

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