Fashion News Alert: Matt Dillon’s New Job, Kate Moss Collaborates with Zadig & Voltaire and Norma Kamali Unveils Skincare Line

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Menswear Italian Brioni has a new actor as the face of their winter 2020 Tailoring Legends campaign. Matt Dillon will appear in the brand’s winter 2020 campaign in black and white images photographed by Gregory Harris. As the face of Brioni’s fall 2020 campaign, the 55-year old Dillon is succeeded by Samuel L. Jackson, Pierce Brosnan, and Anthony Hopkins.

Founded in Rome in 1945, Brioni has been worn by such iconic actors as Clark Gable, Henry Fonda, John Wayne, and Gary Cooper. Brioni suits have been worn by Daniel Craig and Pierce Brosnan in several Bond films. Since 2002, Brioni has been owned by Kering, the French luxury group.

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Kate Moss’ new gig

Zadig & Voltaire has a new muse, supermodel Kate Moss. Kate Moss will collaborate with the French apparel brand on its new rock n’ roll fall 2019 campaign.

Moss will not just be the face of the brand’s fall 2019 campaign but will also collaborate with Zadig & Voltaire’s creative director Cecilia Bönström on bags, shoes, and possibly apparel.

Zadig & Voltaire has ramped up their retail presence with 199 stores in France and 260 stores globally. The brand has recently opened new location in Nice and Porto.

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Norma Kamali expands

If being an icon in the fashion industry is not enough, Norma Kamali adds to her long list of accomplishments by unveiling a new direction in her career by releasing a skincare line. As reported by Vogue, Normalife: The Skinline, includes a skincare collection spanning cleanser dubbed ‘Clean,’ an exfoliator titled ‘Smooth,’ a color enhancer called ‘Glow’ and a moisturizer, ‘Soft.’

“I am sharing everything I do, everything I use and all the information I have gathered in the last 40 years!” the designer promises. “Normalife is democratic inclusive for men and women of all ages, skin color and types!!,” explained Kamili in an Instagram post. The skinline was first developed as I was approaching 50 and I decided makeup was not working on my skin anymore and that if I showed my bare skin it would be a better alternative but it had to look good,” continues Kamali on the NormaLife site.

Normalife can be used by both sexes and contains natural and understandable ingredients, such as charcoal, ground olive pits and fermented sugar beets. The line is free of parabens, sulfates, artificial fragrances, and preservatives. Normalife launches this week.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Zendaya and Lancome, Gigi Hadid’s New Gig, Alber Elbaz Is Back, and Kenzo’s New Creative Director

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For those who’ve wondered were Alber Elbaz would end up after his departure from Lanvin four years ago, wonder no more. Elbaz has created a capsule collection of Italian brand Tod’s. Entitled, “Happy Moments,” the capsule collection is inspired the turbulent four years of Elbaz’s life after being fired from Lanvin.

“It’s been a while. Four years. Some happy moments and some not so happy moments. But that’s life,” added Elbaz in a fashionnetwork.com article. For different reasons … All we do is make everyone else happy, but we are not. We are the second skin of the world and we lose our own skin,” continued Elbaz.

This shoe capsule collection has moccasins and of course, sneakers with ergonomic soles. “Given the traffic at shows, maybe sneakers are the new cars. All I wanted to do was change the soles at Tod’snot the soul of Tod’s,” quipped Elbaz.

Image courtesy of ellecanada.com

Gigi smells good

Supermodel Gigi Hadid can add Michael Kors’ fragrance Wanderlust to her impressive list of modeling jobs. Today, Michael Kors announced that Gigi Hadid would be the new face of the Wanderlust fragrance.

Wanderlust contains a bouquet of almond milk accord, Italian bergamot, Sicilian mandarin, and pink pepper, followed by dianthus, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, jasmine sambac absolute, heliotrope fragrances. This bouquet is set off by dry notes of sandalwood Sri Lanka, cashmeran wood, and benzoin siam.

The summer 2019 Wanderlust fragrance campaign was photographed in Turks and Caicos by Inez & Vinoodh.

Image courtesy of gotceleb.com

Zendaya’s new job

Speaking of smelling good, Zendaya has been slated to be the brand ambassador for Lancome’s new fragrance. Lancome’s ‘Idôle’ was created to appeal to millennials.

We are excited to be able to create a fragrance for a new generation of women questioning the status quo, breaking free from tradition and re-defining the meaning of success,” added Françoise Lehmann, Lancôme Global Brand President. “Collective and beneficial for all women, this new confidence is inciting them to raise the bar a little higher every time.”

“Idôle is a perfume that has meaning,” Zendaya says. “I like the fact that it’s fresh and light. I am very particular about perfumes, and Idôle smells absolutely beautiful and I love it.”

This new Lancome fragrance contains sustainably sourced Isparta Rose Petal Essence from Turkey made exclusively for the brand. It also features notes of bergamot, accords of pear, India Jasmine Grandiflorum, and a new ‘clean and glow’ accord. It will be presented in a slender bottle that measures just 15mm in thickness. Idôle goes on sale globally on August 22.

Image coutesy of gotceleb.com

Kenzo has a new creative director

All rumors about the new creative director of Kenzo have been confirmed. LVMH, which owns Kenzo, has announced that Felipe Oliveira Baptista is the new creative director of Kenzo. Baptista was the former creative director for Lacoste, serving in that post for eight years before departing in 2018.

Baptista will join Kenzo in the beginning of this month, debuting his first fall 2021 collections for Kenzo in Paris in early 2020. “His contemporary, innovative creative vision and his extremely comprehensive design approach will enable the label to deploy its potential while respecting its unique heritage,” said Sylvie Colin, general manager of Kenzo.

The 44-year-old Baptista is a native of the island of Azores, and a fashion design graduate of London’s Kingston University. Baptista began his fashion career with Max Mara and later working at Cerruti and Christophe Lemaire. Baptista is credited with rejuvenating Lacoste, making it a go-to brand for young consumers.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Ralph Lauren Knighted, the Bolshoi Ballet Celebrates Coco Chanel, and Paris Bids Farewell to Karl Lagerfeld

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On Wednesday, Ralph Lauren received an honorary knighthood from the United Kingdom. Lauren is now an Honorary Knight Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire. Because he is not a British citizen, he cannot be deemed Sir Ralph Lauren. Still, Ralph Lauren has received an honor that few will ever receive.

Ralph Lauren is the first American to become an honorary knight. The insignia was signed off by Queen Elizabeth, but he received it from Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace.

Additionally, Lauren was awarded the James Smithson Bicentennial Medal, “[honoring] his lifetime contributions as a great American and his leadership role in the preservation of the Star-Spangled Banner.”

Photo courtesy of bolshoiballet.ru

Coco Chanel in tights

Bolshoi Ballet’s prima ballerina Svetlana Zakharova will star in a new ballet that celebrates Coco Chanel’s love of Russia. The one-act ballet, “Gabrielle Chanel” is choreographed by Yuri Possokhov and will feature 85 costumes using Chanel designs.

She loved Russian ballet, Russians and Russia,” Zakharova said. “She helped Russian aristocrats who were forced to flee Russia. She loved Russian models.” 

It will be a celebration of friendship between ballet and fashion,” Zakharova told reporters ahead of the performance, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “But this will not be a fashion show, it will be a genuine spectacle.”

“Gabrielle Chanel” will feature Coco Chanel opening her first boutique, her love affair with Boy Capel and her relationship with the Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes. “Gabrielle Chanel” opens on Saturday in Moscow.

Photo courtesy of thefashionspot

Final Farewell

At Grand Palais, Paris bid farewell to fashion icon Karl Lagerfeld with a tribute that featured readings and performances from Helen Mirren, Tilda Swinton, Cara Delevingne, Pharrell Williams, Fanny Ardant and Lang Lang. This memorial of sorts was paired with videos of Karl Lagerfeld, accompanied by witty sayings and Lagerfeld-isms that, though sometimes funny, bordered on sassy, comeback snips.

This tribute also gave some renowned fashion designers the opportunity to pay their respects to the late, great Lagerfeld. Silvia Venturini Fendi, Stella McCartney, Alber Elbaz, Haider Ackermann, Valentino, along with Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, all flew in for the occasion.

This “Karl Forever: A Celebration” was also attended by Princess Caroline, Charlotte Casiraghi, Carole Bouquet, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy and Claudia Schiffer, all seated in the front row. The opening video featured Anna Wintour who praised Karl for succeeding “not just as a designer, but also as a linguist, photographer, interior decorator, film maker and philanthropist. He was the original multi-tasker, a man who did everything at once … It is his human presence that we all mourn and celebrate.”

The tribute closed with Pharrell Williams performing, calling everyone to stand as a video montage of Lagerfeld taking bows at the brands he helmed—Chanel, Fendi, and Karl Lagerfeld—played behind Pharrell. Final farewell, Karl!!

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Taylor Swift Collaborates with Stella McCartney, Carolina Herrera Accused of Cultural Appropriation, and Virgil Abloh’s Museum Exhibition

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Though Virgil Abloh’s fashion transcendency has been brief, he is already making a global impact on the fashion industry. In 2013 Abloh founded the fashion brand Off-White and in 2018 Abloh became the men’s creative director of Louis Vuitton. Additionally, Abloh has collaborated with Nike and scores of celebrities, including Serena Williams and Kanye West.

With this including accumulation of accomplishments in a short seven years, the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago has debuted an exhibition of Virgil Abloh’s work. The exhibition opened on June 10 and will run through September 22.

The Virgil Abloh presentation offers “an in-depth look at defining highlights of Abloh’s career including a program of cross-disciplinary offerings that will mirror the artist’s range of interests across music, fashion, architecture, and design,” details a Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago.

There is a Virgil Abloh pop-up store, Church & State, attached to the exhibition. The Church & State pop-up will offer visitors a retrospective of best-selling Off-White product and new, exclusive collections inspired by the exhibition.

Image courtesy of nytimes.com

Carolina Herrera’s Mexican controversy

All fashion brands are inspired by and reference motifs, ideas, and design elements from a variety of cultural influences and countries. That said; when is this injection of cultural influences cultural appropriation or a respectful homage.

This dilemma has come into question, once again, with Carolina Herrera’s resort 2020 collection when creative director Wes Gordon drew inspiration from Mexico’s rich indigenous cultures.  Founder Carolina Herrera is a Venezuelan native and always injects Latin culture into her collections. But this time around things may be different.

In a press release from the Puig Group which owns Carolina Herrera, “Carolina Herrera’s [r]esort 2020 collection takes on the playful and colorful mood of a Latin holiday, from a sunrise in Tulum, the waves in José Ignacio and dancing in Buenos Aires to the colors of Cartagena.”

Hmm, that explanation was good enough. The Mexican government has accused Wes Gordon of misappropriating Mexico’s indigenous cultures in Carolina Herrera’s 2020 resort collection. Mexico’s Secretary of Culture Alejandra Frausto sent a letter to the brand, requesting “an explanation for the use of designs and embroidery belonging to native peoples.”

The artisanal design in question is a long white dress with animal and floral embroidery, which Frausto said come from the community of Tenango de Doria in Hidalgo. “In these embroideries is the history of the community itself, and each element has a personal, family and community meaning,” says Frausto in the letter, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.  Frausto continues, “It is a principle of ethical consideration that forces us to draw attention to an issue that can’t be ignored any longer: we must promote inclusion and make those who are invisible visible.”

Wes Gordon has responded by explaining that the collection has, “an undeniable Mexican presence”. “It’s something that jumps out at you and I always intended it to be something latent as a way of showing my love for this country and for all the incredible work I’ve seen there.” Gordon continues, “My admiration for the artisanal work has only grown as I have travelled to Mexico over the years. With this new collection, I have tried to highlight the importance of this magnificent cultural heritage.”

Still, is this paying homage or cultural appropriation. Let the people decide!!

Image courtesy of fashionunited.com

Swift and McCartney pair up

Taylor Swift and Stella McCartney are teaming up for a new clothing line linked to Swift’s latest album, “Lover.” The “Lover” album is set to release on August 23 with the clothing line hitting the market around the same time.

On an Instagram live video Taylor Swift detailed, “[Stella McCartney] been a friend for a really long time and also just a woman that I respect so much. I respect what she creates, how she creates it. There’s so much whimsy and imagination and romance to the clothing that she designs. I’ve worn a lot of her stuff recently, and she’s heard the new album, and this new collaboration is inspired by the album.”

There will be other product linked to the “Lover” album the clothing collaboration between Swift and McCartney. Most of the product is in the vein of tradition product that goes alongside product linked to music albums; however, the McCartney/Swift clothing will be more luxury fashion.

William S. Gooch

Weekend Fashion News Alert: Kate Moss Fronts Armani Campaign, Bernie Sanders Confronts Walmart, Miley Cyrus and Marc Jacobs Get Political, and Jennifer Lopez Wins CFDA Icon Award

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There were many significant winners at the recent 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards. Brandon Maxwell beat out Marc Jacobs, and others for the Womenswear Designer of the Year Award. Rick Owens beat out Virgil Abloh, Thom Browne, and others for the Menswear Designer of the Year Award, and Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen of The Row won the Accessory Designer of the Year Award.

Perhaps, the most exciting and notable winner of the evening was Jennifer Lopez, winning the Fashion Icon of the Year Award. Lopez was attired in a red Ralph Lauren shirt with red turtleneck crop top embellished with 43,000 crystals.

“I loved fashion since I was little girl, growing up in the Bronx and to be here and among all these designers and to be honored is just a dream,” the singer and actress said on the red carpet, as reported on cnn.com, adding: “I’m wearing Ralph Lauren, a fellow Bronx native.”

According to the CFDA, Lopez was awarded the 2019 Fashion Icon Award for her “long-standing and global impact on fashion.” Naomi Campbell, Rihanna, and Beyoncé have all received the CFDA Fashion Icon Award.

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Kate and Giorgio

Kate Moss is the new face of the Armani fall 2019 campaign. The 45-year-old Supermodel is sporting a new bob and bangs hairstyle for the campaign.

Looking very sophisticated and stylish, Moss is attired in different shades of blue that mirror the brand’s “Rhapsody in Blue” fall 2019 collection. The campaign has been photographed by Mert Alas & Marcus Piggott in black and white, as well as in color. Similar to Armani’s fall 2019 fashion show with included women and men’s collection, the campaign includes male models Daisuke Ueda and Thijs Stenneberg.

Image courtesy of cnn.com

Bernie Sanders decries Walmart

When Democratic Senator and candidate for the 2020 presidency Bernie Sanders talks about raising the minimum wage it’s not just campaign rhetoric. Sanders has gone after Walmart, the biggest retailer in the US, whose workers pay is so low that some receive SNAP benefits just to make ends meet.

At the Walmart shareholders’ meeting on Wednesday, Sanders presented a proposal to raise workers’ wages to $15 and hour and stated, “despite the incredible wealth of Walmart’s owners” the company pays “starvation wages.” Sanders added, “Walmart’s CEO is making a thousand times more than the average Walmart employee.” Sanders has also urged Congress to raise the minimum wage above the current $7.25 an hour.

Walmart currently pays workers $11 an hour which is above the minimum wage of $7.25, but way below what Walmart executive and CEOs make. In 2018 Walmart’s CEO received a 23.6 million dollar pay compensation package.

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Miley and Marc Jacobs Collaborate

Miley Cyrus and Marc Jacobs are getting involved in politics. On Wednesday, Jacobs and Miley Cyrus launched a limited-edition pink sweatshirt hoodie with an image of Miley Cyrus holding two grapefruit halves over a naked breast. The caption on the pink sweatshirt hoodie says, “Don’t F*ck With My Freedom.”

Proceeds from the sale of the pink sweatshirt hoodie will go to reproductive organization like Planned Parenthood. The pink sweatshirt hoodie comes on the heels of the release of Miley Cyrus, new album, “She Is Coming.” “She Is Coming” was released last week accompanied by a new line of sex-positive merchandise.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Marc Jacobs’ New Line, Cara Delevinge Collabs with Balmain, Jean Patou Rebrands, and Slim Pickings for NYFW: Men’s Spring 2020 season

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Everyone is aware of Marc Jacobs struggles since 2015. At one time, Jacobs was the darling of that fashionista set of the early 2000s for who Jacobs could do no wrong. Think “Sex and the City’s” Cara Bradshaw, who was a Marc Jacobs’ devotee.

Those days are long ago. And Jacobs is in need of new invigoration and re-introduction of his design aesthetic and genius to the new fashionista at lower prices.

The Marc Jacobs, Jacobs’ new line, hopes to do that. With The Marc Jacobs, Jacobs’ is revisiting collaborations, archives and collections from the past.

“It’s not so much about trying new product categories as it is about communicating them, packaging them and making the experience a little bit different for this day and age,” Jacobs says, as reported in fashionista.com. “If that [means] it has to be more appealing online, or if it has to be more appealing in reality through a different form of retailing than we’ve ever done before … We always put stuff out in the store, then if people wanted to buy, they bought it. I don’t know if that cuts it anymore.”

The Marc Jacobs launches on Thursday.

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Cara and Balmain

Supermodel Cara Delevinge, after taking an absence from fashion and appearing in three films, stuck her foot back into the fashion pool, so to speak, last September opening Balmain’s spring 2019 show. Delevinge’s love affair with Balmain continues as she is now set to collaborate with the iconic French fashion house on a leather goods capsule collection, BBags.

Balmain creative director Oliver Rousteing has designed three leather bags for this small capsule collection with Cara decorating and deciding on the metal details of the leather bags. The inspiration for these bags came from the rocker influence in Balmain’s fall 2019 show.

“She has attitude. She’s a troublemaker and she doesn’t care. She’s provocative, but it’s a paradox–she can be gentle and romantic, an angel or a devil. She can’t be categorized,” explained Rousteing. 

The BBags will launch on May 29.

Image courtesy of pittimagazine.com

A deflated NYFWM

Saying that New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 season is on a diet, is an understatement. Realizing that NYFW has very little traction on the international fashion scene, the CFDA moved NYFWM from the second week of July and paired with New York City’s resort collections.

Though launched with much fanfare in 2015 with John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Nautica, and Perry Ellis presenting their collections in the inaugural season, many esteemed menswear brands quickly defected and chose to present their menswear in more esteemed men’s fashion weeks in Europe and Asia. Now, NYFWM is down to a three-day event, populated with mostly emerging menswear designers and the few menswear diehards who continue to support the flailing men’s fashion week.

This season saw the defection of some New York-based menswear designers to Paris. Namely, Sies Marjan, and Bode, with Palomo Spain returning to Paris, after a much-heralded fall 2019 collection shown in NYC in February.

Maybe incoming president Tom Ford can find a way to inject some much-needed energy and corporate dollars into NYFWM’s before it fades into recent memory. Good Luck, Tom!!

Image courtesy of neimanmarcus.com

Jean Patou simplifies

In the fashion industry name recognition is everything, well almost! In an era where fashion brands come and go as quickly as the season, it is so important for a brand to have a simple name that is easily remembered.

Many famous couture houses over time reduced their brand name from the name of the designer to just name or a combination of names. Coco Chanel became Chanel. Yves Saint Laurent became Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior became Dior.

Jean Patou now follows suit. LVMH took control of the French luxury house and is looking forward to the house relaunch as Patou. “Onomatopoeia that we love to repeat. A recognizable appeal, a je-ne-sais-quoi that resembles you. Patou is Patou!” wrote the label.

Patou will also have a new logo in large black letters on a white background. “A new logo inspired by the house’s archives, to see the label enter into a new era.”

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Rihanna Drops Debut Fenty Collection, Aquaria Collaborates with NYX, H&M and Giambattista Valli, and Jason Wu Designs for Kohls

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Well, it’s finally here. Rihanna’s clothing, Fenty Maison, the first new clothing brand under the auspices of LVMH since 1987 debuted today in Paris.

Though the collection received positive notices for the most part, there was criticism that the Fenty price points were much higher than Rihanna’s previous fashion and beauty lines. According to interview conducted with Bloomberg, Rihanna wanted to “keep prices as accessible as possible while still using luxurious materials and techniques”. Rihanna added: “I hope I can reach a broad audience. I can’t wait to walk outside and just run past someone who’s wearing it. I think that’ll be a huge moment for me.”

Still, those price points are way out of league for most consumers.

Inspired by menswear, fanny packs, and denim, this debut collection includes suits, jackets, dresses, and some great separates. LVMH pulled designers from some of their most esteemed brands to help design Fenty Maison’s debut collection.

“To support Rihanna to start up the Fenty Maison, we have built a talented and multicultural team supported by the group resources. I am proud that LVMH is leading this venture and wish it will be a great success,” explained Bernard Arnault, LVMH chairman and chief executive.

Fenty Maison officially launches on May 29.

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Aquaria gives face to NYX

NYX has its first celebrity collaboration with drag artist Aquaria. The Aquaria X NYX  Professional Makeup Palette will contain ten vibrant shades ranging from canary yellow to navy blue in a range of matte and metallic finishes. The Aquaria X NYX Professional Makeup Palette will drop on May 30.

For those not familiar with Aquaria. Aquaria aka as Giovanni Palandrani was a contestant on the 10th season of “Rupaul’s Drag Race.” In recent months Aquaria has had an immersive on-site glitter experience at the recent Coachella, and last year Aquaria launched a sweet treat-themed makeup collection with My/Mo Mochi Ice Cream and Uber Eats last year.

“I’m very inspired by the dark colors I see at night and all the bright personalities I get to see at the clubs,” Aquaria elaborated in an interview with Allure. “We just wanted it to be kind of slimy, oily, and dark, but also fun and bright. The colors totally represent that.”

Fashion collaborations have become a norm at H&M. Mostly, the collaborations have been with household name luxury brands. Not true this time around!!

Image courtesy of dailyfrontrow.com

H&M and Giambattista Valli

Enter Giambattista Valli. Giambattista Valli is one of the most European sought-after brands and in recent years has made significant traction on red carpets in the US.

True to form, there will be lots of frothy fantasy. Top models Kendall Jenner and Chiara Feragni gave a sneak peek at the 2019 Cannes Film Festival.

“I am excited about this collaboration: H&M gives me the opportunity to bring my vision of style and my celebration of beauty to a wider audience,” said Valli in a press release. “The goal is to share my love for beauty and to be able to be part of everyone’s “happy moments”, to help create love stories all around the world.”

Price points will range from $18 to $649. This limited-edition Giambattista Valli X H&M will drop on May 25 and will be available on the H&M website and in 10 select H&M stores. The complete collection will be in stores on November 7.

Image courtesy of richarmagazine.com

Can Jason Wu lift Kohls’ declining sales?

This week seemed to be a week of collaborations. It was announced on Tuesday that Jason Wu will be designing a holiday collection for Kohls. The holiday collection will be inspired by Hollywood glamour.

The holiday collection will contain dresses, jackets, jumpsuits to be sold on Kohls’ online site and stores nationwide, launching in stores in early November. “I am excited to bring my designs to the Kohl’s customer and give her beautifully designed pieces that will add dimension to her wardrobe,” Jason Wu told WWD.

All this comes on the heels of Kohls producing very weak first quarter sales.  First quarter sales declined by 2.9 percent. CEO Michelle Gass in a statement explained that Kohls is “actively addressing the opportunities that impacted our first quarter sales and we have strong initiatives that will enhance our sales performance in the second half.

Jason Wu now joins Mary-Kate & Ashley Olsen’s Elizabeth and James, who signed a deal last month to sell Elizabeth and James exclusively at Kohls. In the past Kohls has partnered with Lauren Conrad and Vera Wang to boost sales.

William S. Gooch

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Victoria’s Secret Abandons TV, Kering Vows to Hire Only 18+ Models, Condé Nast Sells Brides, and Travis Scott’s Sneakers Sell Out

Photo by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images

For the past couple of seasons, things have been tough for Victoria’s Secret. The company is experiencing a dramatic decline in sales, criticism that their annual Victoria’s Secret show is sexist and out of touch with how modern women want to be seen, and shrinking viewership of their television spectacular.

Due to all these factors, Victoria’s Secret has decided to eliminate their annual broadcasted Victoria’s Secret show. “For the past few months, we’ve said that we are taking a fresh look at every aspect of our business,” the company said in a memo sent to employees by Chief Executive Les Wexner. “We have decided to re-think the traditional Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. Going forward we don’t believe network television is the right fit.”

Once the go-to brand in women’s lingerie, Victoria’s Secret has seen their market domination invaded by lingerie brands that offer a similar product at lower prices. Concurrently, their annual television special has declined in viewership from a high of 12 million in 2001 to just 3.3 American households in 2018.

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Travis Scott sells out

Talk about selling out quickly!! Travis Scott’s collaborative sneakers, Air Jordan 1 High OG TS, with Nike Inc. sold out within hours of its general release on Saturday, May 11.

The sneakers are currently retailing for $175. However, after selling out, some are being resold for upward of $1000.

The sneakers were not the only things that sold out in the collaboration between Scott and Nike on Nike’s website. Scott’s shirts and apparel also sold out. Wow, it must be nice to be a part of the Travis Scott tribe!!

Image courtesy of euronews.com

Over 18 is the charm

French fashion holding company Kering has agreed to only employ models aged over 18 years of age. There has been a lot of criticism of fashion brands, casting agents and model management companies looking to employ models that are under the age of 18. These ethical conversations around underaged models have been going on the fashion industry for decades. Kering is one of the first big fashion brand holding companies that is committed to doing something about it.

 Kering has committed to not hiring underaged models starting in 2020. “We believe that we have a responsibility to put forward the best possible practices in the luxury sector and we hope to create a movement that will encourage others to follow suit,” said Kering’s chairman and chief executive François-Henri Pinault.

 Kering is extending the 18+ age requirement to fashion campaigns, runway show and brand promotion. Kering owns Saint Laurent, Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen, Boucheron, Christopher Kane, Brioni, and many others.

Image courtesy of Brides

Brides buyout

According to The New York Times, Condé Nast has sold Brides magazine. Brides magazine has been sold to Dotdash.

“It wasn’t like there was crazy bidding at the end,” said Neil Vogel, the head of Dotdash, which is part of InterActiveCorp (IAC), the company behind Tinder, Match and OKCupid. “It’s clear to us that there wasn’t a ton of investment behind this in the last few years.” “We’re not buying this for print,” Mr. Vogel said. “We’re buying this for the editorial team and for digital.”

 As the oldest bridal magazine—launched in 1934—at one time Brides magazine was one of Condé Nast’s most profitable print publication. Unfortunately, circulation for Brides magazine has fallen by 4% over the past few years. Brides with Golf Digest was put up for sale in the summer of 2018. Both Condé Nast publications have found buyers.

Vogel intends to scrap the current print version of Brides and redesign the publication for a savvy digital audience. Dotdash is the current incarnation of About.com, which was sold to The New York Times in 2005, and sold again to IAC in 2012. IAC is owned by media mogul billionaire Barry Diller.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Tyra Banks Returns to Sports Illustrated, Rihanna’s Fenty Maison, NYFW Shrinks to Five Days, and Goodbye Max Azria

Photo courtesy of Sports Illustrated

Supermodel/Media Mogul Tyra Banks has returned to Sports Illustrateds Swimwear edition. The 45-year-old Banks has graced the cover of Sports Illustrated three times prior to the 2019 cover.”This is for everybody that has been told that they are not good enough because of their body, their age, their everything,” Banks told her 6.3 million followers on Instagram.

“Since Tyra’s first cover in 1996, she’s transformed herself into nothing less than a mogul, a cultural force and a supernova of inspiration and empowerment,” said SI Swimsuit Editor, MJ Day, adding: “Alex Morgan stands for feminine strength and power—using her voice to fight for gender discrimination and equal pay and Camille Kostek, only a year after we discovered her in our annual Model Search casting, marks the launch of a career swimming in potential. These women emulate determination to own who they are and demonstrate how limitless they can be.”

The theme for the 2019 Sports Illustrated Swimwear edition is “Shattered Perceptions.” The issue contains 34 women, featuring seven athletes, four mother, and six rookies.

Photo courtesy of Stephen Lovekin/Variety/REX/Shutterstock

Rihanna’s house

LVMH has finally announced they will launch Fenty Maison, Rihanna’s new luxury clothing line. Fenty Maison will be based in Paris and will be composed on accessories, shoes and ready-to-wear.

“Designing a line like this with LVMH is an incredibly special moment for us,” Rihanna explained in a press release. “Mr. Arnault has given me a unique opportunity to develop a fashion house in a luxury sector, with no artistic limits. I couldn’t imagine a better partner both creatively and business-wise, and I’m ready for the world to see what we have built together.”

According to The New York Times, Rihanna is the first woman to create a fashion brand at LVMH, and the first woman of color to helm a LVMH fashion brand. Bravo and kudos to Rihanna!!

Photo courtesy of stylecrave.com

Fashion week shrinks

The CFDA announced today that New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) will be shortened to five days instead of its current seven-day schedule. Some years back NYFW was cut down from eight days to seven, starting on Thursday and lasting through the Wednesday of the following week.

With the new schedule, NYFWS will commence on Friday and end on Wednesday week. The dates set for next season are September 6 through September 11. “This effort is not only for U.S. industry and talent but will also serve as the change needed to further globalize New York Fashion Week,” explained the CFDA on its website. 

The call for this change seems to be coming from incoming CFDA Chairman Tom Ford. Ford is looking to revamp NYFWS, perhaps in the fashion week models that are employed in Europe.

NYFWS has been in decline for the past few years, and a revamp and revitalization are necessary to keep NYFWS as one of the premier global fashion weeks. Ford will not start his position at the CFDA until 2020.

Photo courtesy of Theo Wargo/WireImage

Bye, bye Max

The fashion world mourns the loss of Max Azria. Max Azria was one of the most beloved fashion designers of the late 80s and 90s, launching his fashion brand, BCBG Max Azria, in 1989.

The Tunisian-born Max Azria moved with his family to Paris as a young boy. With his brother Serge, Max Axria founded a textile company that supplied textiles to Sentier, on of Paris oldest garment districts.

After selling the business in 1981, Max Azria moved to the US and launched his women’s luxury line BCBG Max Azria which over time morphed into a company that would acquire Herve Leger, Dorotennis and Manoukian. For most of the past two decades, BCBG has been a constant presence at New York Fashion Week.

In 2016, Max Azria stepped down in his executive role at BCBG, with the company filing for bankruptcy a year later. Marquee Group now owns BCGG Max Azria and BCBGeneration.

After a long illness, Max Azria died at the age of 70 at his home in Houston. He is survived by his wife Lubov and his three children.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Keanu Reeves’ New Gig, Hajibs and Burkinis in Sports Illustrated, Allen Onyia and True Religion, Gucci Could Hit the €10 Billion Mark, and Bluefly on the Auction Block

Image courtesy of Sports Illustrated

Sports Illustrated’s annual swimwear edition for the first time will feature a Muslim model in a hajib and a burkini. Somali-American model Halima Aden is the chosen model for this historic issue.”Growing up in the States, I never really felt represented because I never could flip through a magazine and see a girl who was wearing a hijab,” Aden said in a video tweeted by the magazine, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. Halima Aden, 21, has appeared on the cover of British Vogue and walked in fashion shows during New York Fashion Week.

Image courtesy of Saint Laurent

Keanu for Saint Laurent

Keanu Reeves is the new face of Saint Laurent’s fall 2019 collection.  For the past few seasons, Saint Laurent has used a slew of celebrities, namely Travis Scott, Zoe Kravitz, Courtney Love, Marilyn Manson, Vincent Gallo, and others.

Reeves now steps into the fray. The campaign is photographed by David Sims with Reeves in a striped blazer, dark shirt and aviator sunglasses, while the second had Reeves in jeans and a leather jacket.

Image courtesy of red-carpetfashionawards.com

Gucci explosion

2018 was a banner year for Gucci with €8.3 billion in revenue and a 25% growth rate for the first quarter of 2019. If Gucci experiences a sales growth of 21% for all of 2019, Gucci could hit its target of being of 10 billion in revenue for 2019. Experts predict that Gucci will fall short of the €10 billion goal, only hitting €9.7 billion.

The blackface/turtleneck scandal did not appear to hurt Gucci’s sales growth, though a slew of celebrities and influencers vowed to stop supporting the brand because of the racially insensitive scandal. Millennials made the largest consumer base—62 percentfor Gucci in 2018. Gucci plans to continue this incredible market growth by branching into cosmetics. Its recently launched fragrances lines have done very well.

Image courtesy of tumblr.com

Allen Onyia’s new job

If you want to know how being a social media influencer with a large following pays off, just ask Allen Onyia. Onyia, who is the co-founder of high-end, lifestyle magazine UpScale Hype, has been named the new artistic director of True Religion. Onyia started UpScaleHype with his brother Kyle in 2008. In 2018 Onyia’s profile was named by GQ as Menswear’s Most Important Instagram Account.” 

Onyia will have the task of creating a new vision for the Los Angeles-based denim company. True Religion filed for Chapter11 bankruptcy in 2017 which many believe was brought on by the popularity of athleisure wear and streetwear. True Religion was most viable in the industry when its brand of denim was celebrated as an historic denim brand.

“I have always admired True Religion as an iconic brand with deep roots in the streetwear category,” said Onyia in a release. “I am thrilled to join the team and bring my vision to reestablish a brand people can associate with, in this new age of streetwear.   “We have been driving towards this watershed moment since I joined the Company,” added True Religion CEO Chelsea Grayson. “I am excited to work with Allen to return True Religion to its rightful place among streetwear leaders.”

Onyia, good luck!!

Image courtesy of mozu.com

Bluefly seeks a buyer

Bluefly.com is for sale. The online retailer of off-priced women’s and men’s clothing recently announced that its domain name, trademarks, customer data and associated purchase data, as well as the company’s social media profiles is for sale.

Bluefly launched in 1998 as an off-priced clothing e-commerce site. In 2018 the e-commerce site transitioned to a platform powered by technology company Mirakl. In February Bluefly shut down its offices in New York City’s Garment District and filed Chapter 7 banckruptcy. Though Bluefly has financial assets between $500,000 and a million dollars its debts and liabilities are around $10 million.

“The Bluefly.com brand is well-recognized by women of all ages, with a high concentration among Generation X and millennial customers, a highly loyal and desirable demographic,” said Richelle Kalnit, Hilco Streambank senior vice president, as reported in a fashionnetwork.com article. “There is an exciting opportunity to relaunch the brand and re-engage with the Bluefly.com customer.”

William S. Gooch

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