Fashion News Alert: Karl Lagerfelds’ #MeToo Comments, Adidas Offers Kaepernick Deal, and Gaia Trussardi Resigns

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Karl Lagerfeld is known for saying exactly what he thinks. Mincing his words is not one of Lagerfeld’s virtues when it comes to speaking his mind on models and body image.In a recent article, Lagerfeld blasted the #MeToo movement by stating, “… I read somewhere that now you must ask a model if she is comfortable with posing. Its simply too much, from now on, as a designer, you can’t do anything. As for the accusations against the poor Karl Templar [creative director at Interview magazine], I don’t believe a single word of it. A girl complained he tried to pull her pants down and he is instantly excommunicated from a profession that up until then had venerated him. It’s unbelievable. If you don’t want your pants pulled about, don’t become a model! Join a nunnery, there’ll always be a place for you in the convent. They’re recruiting even!”

The Model Alliance, a model advocacy group, fired back. “Mr. Lagerfeld’s flippant dismissal of reports of abuse, and his characterization of models who have come forward as “stupid,” “toxic” and “sordid creatures” who should quit their profession if they do not like how they are treated surely demands action. While the industry has previously met such remarks with tacit acceptance, this much is clear: attitudes like Lagerfeld’s carry the day no longer.”

Some celebrities have also slammed Lagerfeld for his comments. Rose McGowan tweeted, “Karl, your cruelty is tired. You’ve made so much money off of women’s insecurities, time for you to ride off into the victim shaming sunset.” Comedian Whitney Cummings commented, “ Karl Lagerfeld is fed up with the #MeeToo. Well, I’m fed up with rich old entitled white guys with ponytails who make their money off of women’s insecurities.”

More for Kaepernick

Colin Kaepernick’s ability to get signed by an NFL team comes with some perks. The political activist and former San Francisco 49er quarterback is looking to get signed by an NFL team, but because of his controversial political activism some NFL team owners have cold feet. Kaepernick is currently a free agent.

Still, if Kaepernick does snag a deal, Adidas’ North American president Mark King has offered Kaepernick an endorsement deal.  “We love athletes that have a platform to make the world a better place. If they’re an activist in a way that brings attention to something that moves the world forward, even if there’s controversy at that moment, we’re really interested in those athletes because I think it represents the world today,” said Mark King according to a report.

Kaepernick took several bows to the knee during the National Anthem in protest to racial profiling and police violence against people of color. Kaepernick has stated in the Washington Post, “when there’s significant change and I feel that flag represents what it’s supposed to represent, and this country is representing people the way that it’s supposed to, I’ll stand.”

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Bye, bye Gaia

Friday 13 is known to be a bad luck day, so most folks avoid doing anything substantive on that day. On this past Friday 13, Gaia Trussardi resigned as creative director of the family-owned Italian fashion label, Trussardi.

Gaia Trussardi has served as creative director of Trussardi for five years. Her explanation for her resignation, as reported in was “to pursue new professional challenges.” No other explanations have been released at this time.

The Trussardi brand began in 1911, and in 2018 the brand is looking to expand its distribution in China and Russia. Gaia Trussardi’s last collection for the brand gave more of a contemporary look to Trussardi’s classic DNA.

—William S. Gooch

The Evolution of the Male Model

               Images courtesy of,,and, respectively

How does one define masculinity? Or more so to Fashion Reverie’s interest, what currently defines the look of a top male model. In previous decades, particularly the 1960s, 70s, and 80s, male models looked like very handsome actors. Think of those tall, handsome, Hollywood types—Cary Grant, Clark Gable, Tab Hunter, John Gavin, Ted Danson, and Tom Selleck. (Ted Danson and Tom Selleck actually started out as male models.) The really good-looking actor standard for American male models held for quite a few decades until iconic fashion photographer Bruce Weber came along.

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Though Weber is controversial, he is still a revolutionary figure in the fashion industry. It was Weber who introduced the all-American Ivy League–like male model to the American consumer, and later to the international fashion community. The quintessential man for Weber was the all-American handsome young man with Disney Prince Charming-like features and athletic jock body. “Bruce kind of pioneered that all-American aesthetic, marrying striking good looks with athleticism. Scouts would [comb] Ivy League campuses and find tall, fit guys who were on the rowing teams, lacrosse, and fencing teams. In the 80s [the US] put males models on the map,” said former model and New York Times bestselling author Brad Gooch in a interview.

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During the 1980s male models began to have  V-shapes, and gym-toned bodies. However, in the early 2000s, a dramatic shift happened and a new kind of male model emerged. Male models began to look younger—in some cases they looked like high school students—more svelte—extremely slim with teenage bodies and taller frames. (In previous decades male models ranged in height from 5`10 to 6`1.) The new male model was rarely shorter than 6`0 and could be as tall as 6`4.

Though fashion designer Hedi Slimane is credited for popularizing the slight-framed, teenaged male model, that aesthetic started before Slimane. According to, “by the early 90s hypermasculinity was out and the everyman was in.” And in fashion that meant sayonara muscled male models, hello skinny grunge boys. (Though Versace continued to use muscular male models for another decade.)

Slimane , who is currently making headlines again for being the next creative director of Céline, served as ready-to-wear director of menswear collections for Yves Saint Laurent from 1996 to 2001. His last show for the brand was fall/winter 2000, and it was considered the debut of “skinny.” The slim cut silhouette (and the ultra slim male model) foreshadowed how Slimane would promote the change in menswear and the face of male models.

 Images Marcus Schenkenberg, Tyson Beckford, and Alex Lundquist courtesy of,, and, respectively

Slimane would move on to the position of creative director for menswear at Christian Dior, and his designs were so acclaimed that Slimane became the first menswear designer to receive the CFDA Award for International Designer. During Slimane’s tenure at Dior, the face of the male models continued to change. The standard of the muscle boys of the 90s like Tyson Beckford, Marcus Schenkenberg, and Alex Lundqvist was passé. The heroin chic look became the order of the day in the new millennium. (If you google heroin chic on Pinterest, you’ll find several Saint Laurent images from the Hedi Slimane era.) It was as if menswear brands had begun putting out calls for male models that said, “Give me your tired, your starved, your single digit body fat men.”

      Images of Chad White and Sebastian Suave courtesy of and

Even top male models of the ‘00s who started off more muscular like Chad White and Sebastian Sauve had to slim down as industry standards for male models changed. In addition to the more svelte look of male models, another trend of gender fluid models began to emerge in the fashion industry.

Images courtesy of,, and photogenics, respectively

Male models like David Chiang, Marcel Castenmiller, and gender ambiguous models like Rain Dove and Andrej Pejic began strutting runways in New York, Milan, and Paris for brands Jean-Paul Gaultier, Richard Chai, Marc Jacobs, Rag & Bone, Kenzo, and PLAYOUT. Other gender ambiguous models like Kris Gottschalk (who identifies as female) and Ruby Rose (who is gender non-conforming) became niche faces of what it meant to be a “male” model. (Andrej Pejic in 2013 transitioned to a female; however, before the transition Andrej was known as the first completely androgynous supermodel.) By the end of the 21st Century’s first decade, the standard men of the runway began to change again. Hedi Slimane was out of Saint Laurent, having left the brand in 2016. The heroin chic look was beginning to fade, and the red carpet was rolled out for the boys with classic good looks—Sean O’Pry, Eian Scully, Garrett Neff, Pierre Woods, Henry Watkins, Cory Baptiste, and Pietro Boselli.With their chiseled bodies, knockout good looks, and charm, this new breed of men began to dominate the industry from runways to top ad campaigns. It was “the return of the male supermodel,” as Soul Artist Management founder Jason Kander so he put it and popularized as a hashtag on Instagram.

However, on the horizon is the return of Hedi Slimane—he’s been named the artistic creative and image director of Céline. As he has planned to introduce menswear to Celine, the ultra slim model could make a comeback. Also, with luxury brands adapting luxury street wear as a design aesthetic, a slimmer male silhouette may experience a resurgence. Only time will tell, let the evolution of the male model continue.

—Kristopher Fraser

Weekend Fashion News Alert: Lanvin Rescued, Teyana Taylor’s New Gig, Job Cuts at Cond Nast and Hearst, and Cushnie et Ochs Split

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Teyana Taylor is now taking on the beauty industry. Most consumers know Teyana Taylor from her star turns in Kanye West’s 2016 video “FADE” and her appearance on MTV’s show “My Super Sweet Sixteen.” And those who follow Taylor on, Taylor slayed opening The Blonds spring 2018 show in jacket of many hues and colors with turquoise bodysuit underneath.That said; Taylor has now become a beauty ambassador for nail giant OPI. This comes on the heels of Taylor opening her own 90s-style nail salon, ‘Junie Bee Nails,’ in Harlem on February 15.

“I’ve been a fan of OPI for years, and I couldn’t be happier to be partnering with the brand,” Taylor told “I’m looking to experiment with my nails and showcase them even more with the new salon and latest OPI products. I’m taking my experience in music and entertainment to give Junie Bee a distinct style.”

Teyana Taylor has over 5.9 followers on Instagram and with this new job, expect her followers to increase.

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Lanvin gets an injection of cash

Anyone who has been following all the goings-on at French iconic fashion house Lanvin are probably aware that the brand was short on cash flow due to very low retails since Alber Elbaz was forced out in 2017. Lanvin was so short on cash that it was speculated that the iconic fashion house would be challenged to meet payroll in March.

All this uncertainty has forced the iconic house to look for a huge infusion of money. Several fashion holding companies had expressed interest in Lanvin with Mayhoola and Fosum International being the most viable.

Fosum International won the bidding contest over Mayhoola, signing the agreement on Friday. Fosum International will invest over 100 million euros into Lanvin, using its new acquired shares as controlling interest in Lanvin. Chinese media mogul Shaw-Lan Wang along with Swiss entrepreneur Ralph Bartel formally held controlling interest in Lanvin. Many believe that Shaw-Lan Wang was responsible for the ouster of former Lanvin creative director Alber Elbaz in 2015, replacing him with Bouchra Jarrar who lasted less than nine months at Lanvin.

Fosum International is an international holding company controlled by Shanghai billionaire Guo Guangchang with interests in insurance, trading and many other businesses including French holiday operator Club Med and knitwear band St. John in the US. Because of financial issues Lanvin has cancelled it show during Paris Fashion Week that was scheduled for February. Lanvin also recently had to pay Alber Elbaz 10 million dollars in euros for compensation due to ending his contract at Lanvin before his contract was up. This financial award was decided in arbitration in a French court in December.

Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs image courtesy of

Bye, bye Michelle

Sadly, Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs is leaving the company. The fashion label founded of 2008 was the brainchild of Michelle Ochs and Carly Cushnie, and according to WWD reports that the design duo’s business relationship had “run its course and came to a natural end.” Cushnie et Ochs’ chief executive officer is also leaving the company.

The brand developed a sizable following as a women’s wear brand who strong design aesthetic focused on a feminine, modern approach to design. Cushnie et Ochs was a finalist in for the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award as well as nominated for the CFDA Swarovski Award.

Cushnie et Ochs celebrated its 10th anniversary during New York Fashion Week: The Shows spring 2018 collections. Cary Cushnie will stand in as CEO temporarily.

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There was enough sadness to go around this week at Conde Nast and Hearst Publications. Both publishing giants have let go some key editors which include Vanity Fair’s managing editor Chris Garett, features editor Jane Sarkin, and deputy editors Aimee Bell and Dana Brown, as well Vanity Fair’s executive director of communications, Beth Kseniak.

It was well known for some time that Glamour magazine was not doing well. The round of layoffs include Glamour’s deputy fashion editor Jillian Davison, deputy fashion editor Sasha Inglehart, West Coast editor Jessica Kantor, and sex and relationship editor Cady Drell.

—William S. Gooch




New York Fashion Week: Bust or Dust?

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All good things must come to an end. Or, so the adage goes. And though we mourn the passing of people and circumstances that promote positivity, goodness, and mirth, we often understand, with great difficulty sometimes, that everything in life is temporary; every phenomenon has its moment. This is the circle of life!New York Fashion Week (NYFW) or in its original form, Press Week, was launched in 1944 by the industry’s first fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert. Eleanor Lambert started Press Week because American press and fashion industry professionals were not able to attend the European couture shows due to World War II. Being cut off from Europe facilitated a unique opportunity for Lambert to promote American designers to the American press and consumers.

Since its inception in 1944, Press Week, or New York Fashion Week as it now called, has evolved beyond anything Eleanor Lambert envisioned. This bi-annual event has grown from a mostly press and fashion industry event to an international phenomenon that has global coverage and merges the worlds of fashion, music and entertainment. 

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At its peak, NYFW was widely attended and covered by international press, major media outlets, and top celebrities—Beyonce, Rihanna, Vanessa Williams, Sarah Jessica Parker, Nicki Minaj, Fergie, Paris Hilton, Grace Jones, Nicole Ritchie, Pharrell Williams, Chris Brown, Whoopie Goldberg, Kim Kardashian, Jennifer Hudson, Martha Stewart, Justin Timberlake, Jay Z, Bette Midler, Jessica Alba, just to name a few. Add to that the proliferation of supermodels strutting in the shows and the variety of corporate sponsorship, from Mercedes Benz, Olympus, DHL, Amazon to Samsung, Papyrus, Skin Lab, and others, the CFDA, and later IMG produced a media event that was unparalleled and one of the largest on the planet.By the late 90s, Europe took notice and European and other world-class designers wanted to take advantage of the great press in the US, press which had surpassed international press at other international shows in Paris, London, Tokyo, and Milan. (Alexander McQueen, Alberta Ferretti, Diego Biletti, Georges Chakra, Antonio Bernardi, Versace Versus, Carlos Miele, Thom Browne, Hugo Boss, Vassa, Venexiana, and many others have showed at NYFW.) Additionally, international press began to take over the photographers’ risers and backstage at NYFW. This confluence of pop culture, international press, and glamorous fashion made NYFW one of the premier fashion events of every season.

That has all changed now, not only have the European brands jumped ship, but many top American designers are no longer interested in presenting during NYFW. (Tommy Hilfiger, Rodarte, Monique Lhuillier, Altazurra, Proenza Schouler, Vera Wang, and many others have opted out.) In fact, some American brands are throwing their hats more heavily into overseas markets, presenting their fall 2018 collections during Paris and London fashion weeks. And celebrities, well, they are few and far between at the shows. With the exodus of top celebrities, most of the major media outlets have disappeared as well.

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The decentralization of the shows is another big challenge. (Gone are the days of the tents at Bryant Park or Lincoln Center.) Add to that the almost complete disappearance of the international press, as well as the defection of top models to runway shows in Europe, China, Russia, and South Korea because of better pay, and you have a fashion week that is a shadow of what it was ten years ago.Why the exodus from NYFW, and has NYFW come to end as we know it, has the moment passed? “In fashion—and in a way, everything, but fashion more than anything else—there are these cycles. It’s true that we’re currently in a cycle where New York fashion Week has tended to be more realistic; more commercial, and so, for that reason, maybe, quite a few went to Paris this year … I think that New York, sometimes, isn’t the best place for growing the more creative of the brands, the less commercial ones, and that is probably the reason Rodarte went, and Proenza, and Altazurra, and maybe a few more,” explains Alexandre de Betak, creative director and founder of Bureau Betak in a article.

Prabal Gurung agrees in the same article, “ NYFW and Fashion Weeks worldwide have changed. The disruption through digital media has shaken the industry and has brought a rise in new voices, a new authority … while there certainly has been some shake-ups, change is a good thing as it inspires greater creativity …”

Still, one questions if the changing face of NYFW is a good thing. All change is not good, at least, initially. And is this change the result of the ever-evolving, peripatetic taste of the American consumer, or a reaction to America’s declining status as the premier world power. Interestingly, most of the brands that recently defected from NYFW are luxury brands that are finding more retail traction in Europe and Asia where luxury brands are have more appeal. According to a 2016 New York Times article, “[t]oday, Chinese shoppers account for nearly half of the global luxury market, providing invaluable demand to brands in every segment.” With Asian consumer’s luxury taste becoming more sophisticated and less label defined due to global travel, Asian consumers are always on the look for new, innovative, luxury garments that employ high quality fabrics, and have a distinct point of view.

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Combine the exodus of American luxury brands to greener pastures oversees to the stark reality that US consumer spending is down and Generation Xers and Millenials are far less likely to spend expendable dollars on pricey garments, opting for brands associated with pop culture collaborations—Off-White x SSENSE, Gigi Hadid x Tommy Hilfiger, Coach x Disney, Victoria Beckham x Reebok, just to name a few, and you have a very different retail environment compared to that market twenty years ago. As expressed in, “[t]he landscape of fashion has become increasing democratized, and the formula of offering limited edition pieces designed in collaboration with another brand or person proved to be extraordinarily lucrative and beneficial for both parties.” (Think of all the luxury collaborations in recent years with H&M, mostly with European brands, sold at way below luxury market levels.) This panoply of influences has created a landscape that is not so welcoming to US luxury brands.That said; many of the brands debuting at NYFW for the fall 2018 season are more commercial US brands—Juicy Couture, Carlisle, Land of Distraction, Saks Pott, and Alice McCall—or commercial Asian brands Peacebird (the Zara of China), KA WA KEY, VLEEDA, Clot, and Chen Peng—that are backed by big money machines. (Steve Kolb of the CFDA was spotted in China recently scouting Asian brands to bring to NYFW: Men’s.) Though some of the those brands already have market traction in the US and Asia; unfortunately, a significant amount will die the early death that most emerging brands experience in an over-saturated US market, fading from memory just as quickly as they emerged.

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Still, the challenges around NYFW continue, and one cannot but pause to reflect if the moment has expired or what we are experiencing is an expected, cyclical fashion malaise that will evolve into something more exciting and revolutionary. “The Fashion Weeks are changing and the whole way we look at fashion is changing completely, not just in New York,” details legendary hairstylist Guido Palau in a article. … “The great thing about fashion is that it never stays the same in any [fashion] medium … It’s all being mixed up to keep the whole thing exciting, and I think if we try to keep it in a certain way, it just becomes stale …” Hmm, I guess we have to wait and see.—William S. Gooch

Wednesday Sample Sales: Week of January 29, 2018


Fashion Reverie seeks to keep its loyal readers informed of great samples sales. Just remember, product disappears quickly, so it is important to get there early.

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BRAND: Katya Dobryakova Multibrand Sample SaleWHEN: 2/01–2/04; Thurs–Sunday (11am–7pm)

WHY:  70%–80% women’s clothing, vintage and fine jewelry. Katya Dobryakova clothing will be priced from $40 to $400, including furs, outerwear, jewelry, and ready to wear items. The sale will also feature merchandise from Raul Penaranda, Meredith Marks, NY Charisma, and Ariana Boussard-Reifel.

WHERE: 463 Broome Street

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BRAND: Eli Tahari Sample Sale

WHEN: 2/2–2/11; Daily (10am–9pm)

WHY: Up to 75% off women’s wear, menswear, and accessories.

WHERE: Elie Tahari Woodbury Commons, 960 Adirondak Way, Suite 960
Central Valley, NY


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BRAND: Nanette Lepore Blowout Sample Sale

WHEN: 2/06–2/08; Tues.–Thurs. (9am–7pm)

WHYWomen’s clothing at a discount; tons of one-of-a-kind samples and Holiday productions. Prices starting at just $30, all sizes available.

WHERE:  225 West 35th Street, 17th Floor Penthouse


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BRAND: The Cashmere Sample Sale

WHEN: 2/06–2/08; Tues.–Thurs. (11am–7pm)

WHY: Women’s cashmere sweaters and accessories at a discount 

WHERE: 261 West 36th Street, 2nd floor


BRAND: Alyson Eastman Sample Sale

WHEN: 2/07; (11am–7pm)

WHY: Shop your favorite archives from Alyson Eastman’s collections

WHERE: 4 Lexington Ave, #1R





Celebrity Fashion Sightings: Week of October 23, 2017

This week’s Celebrity Fashion Sightings it is all about the pantsuit or pant ensemble. Fall celebrity fashion can be a tricky and sticky situation. Depending on where the event of red carpet is located, it could be too brisk for very revealing outfits but not cold enough for velvet, fur embellishments or too be dripping in mink or sable. And if you are on the East Coast, the weather could be appropriate for the season or Indian summer in later October; thus celebrities in pantsuits.

                            Image courtesy of D’Orazio and Associates

Speaking of pantsuits, who would have thought that tennis great Maria Sharapova could look so good and red and in a Styland pant ensemble at the Ad Age Summit in Los Angeles?

                                            Image courtesy of D’Orazio and Associates

Though she may not be donned in a pantsuit, Kerry Washington is beaming and shining in a Mugler asymmetrical, padded shoulder dress with plunging décolletage dress at the 2017 FGI Night of Stars with a Borgioni diamond double finger ring. Washington proves with this hot look that you don’t need fake anything to look good.By the way, Kerry was awarded the Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Award. Hmm, interesting. Isn’t Lord & Taylor letting go of their flagship location in NYC? Nice award, but timing is not good!!

                           Images courtesy of and D’Orazio and Associates

Now, let’s go back to the pant ensemble roundup. Some celebs overdo the tattoos, but with Ruby Rose’s gorgeous face, Fashion Reverie overlooks all the tats. Ruby Rose looks good, tattoos and all in a Victoria Beckham ensemble with black tuxedo jacket, beautifully accessorized in MARLI interchangeable diamond drop earrings and ear cuff at the CFDA / Vogue Fashion Fund Show and Tea.

                                               Images courtesy of Preface PR

Eva Longoria proves that if the jumpsuit is right, you will look good, even wearing a foot cast. Eva Longoria wore an Elisabetta Franchi fall 2017 navy pinstripe one-shoulder jumpsuit while attending the opening of the new Ken Paves Salon on October 23, 2017 in Los Angeles. Now, who wore it best, Eva or the model?

             Images courtesy of D’Orazio and Associates/

“Transformers: The Last Knight’s” Isabela Moner pushes the proverbial fashion envelope in a fall 2017 John-Paul Ataker black gown at the 2017 Princess Grace Awards Gala. Isabela is beautifully accessorized in a Joelle diamond ear cuff, Le Vian diamond earrings, and diamond rings by Borgioni and Djula.

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“E! News’” Maria Menounos with a hair upsweep stunned on the red carpet in a Maria Lucia Hohan fall 2017 gown at the Gabrielle’s Angel Foundation’s Angel Ball 2017 in New York City.

                                        Images courtesy of D’Orazio and Associates

Jessica Simpson wore a polka-dotted Alaia dress, Saint Laurent shoes, and Edie Parker clutch to the 2017 Princess Grace Gala. Jessica set this very commercial look off with a Hearts On Fire diamond bracelet and a Heub diamond ring.

                                     Image courtesy of Preface PR

Bringing up the rear, “Shooter’s” Shantel Vansanten wore a blue suit with gold chair star belt Elisabetta Franchi suit while attending the Platt Boutique Jewelry and The Kit Vintage Opening Celebration.—Staff



Fashion News Alert: Karlie Kloss’ Talk Show, Bye, Bye Shayne Oliver, NYFW: Men’s Revamp, and RIP Mychael Knight

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Welcome to the new world of fashion!! The new world of fashion is a universe where fashion is just a launching pad for something more lucrative. And fashion models epitomize this new fashion trajectory.Bella Hadid is becoming a cosmetics mogul, Cara Delevinge is a burgeoning actress, and now Karlie Kloss is primed to become a talk show host. The talk show centers on Kloss watching movies with her celebrity friends. “Movie Night with Karlie Kloss” will air on the Freeform channel.

Karlie Kloss revealed on Instagram that some of her celebrity guests will include Ashley Graham, Jourdan Dunn, and Kendall Jenner. “Movie Night with Karlie Kloss” premieres in the winter of 2018.

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Helmut Lang’s new creative director

Shayne Oliver’s tenure at Helmut Lang appears to be over. It was announced on today that Mark Howard Thomas has been creative director of the brand’s menswear division.

Though Shayne Oliver was only pegged to create a capsule collection for the brand’s women’s wear collection which debuted during New York Fashion Week: The Show’s spring 2018 season, that was hope that Oliver would hold a permanent position at Helmut Lang. However, according to Andrew Rosen, who oversaw the acquisition of Helmut Lang over ten years ago, announced today that the Oliver collaboration was “a one-off project.”

Mark Howard Thomas comes to Helmut Lang with an impressive resume. Thomas has held senior positions at some very important fashion houses, including Givenchy, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. Mark Howard Thomas first collection for Helmut Lang will be for the brand’s fall 2018 collection.

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A changing NYFWM

New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) is going through a major overhaul. As recently announced by the CFDA, NYFWM will reduce its fall/winter 2018 shows from four days to three days. Also, NYFWM’s schedule will precede New York Fashion Week: The Shows by three days starting on Monday, February 4, 2017.

This reduction of days will leave a lot of menswear designers out of the fold of NYFWM, forcing some of them to show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows fall 2018 season. There was no explanation by the CFDA for the reduction of the shows, but wagging tongues suggest that with sponsorship for NYFWM being much reduced, this reduction of shows cuts down of the cost.

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Mychael Knight transitions

The fashion industry mourns the death of “Project Runway” contestant Mychael Knight. Mychael Knight finished fourth on season three of “Project Runway” and later appeared on the “Project Runway: All Stars” in 2009 and “Project Runway: All Stars in 2013. Knight debuted his fashion line on BET’s “Rip the Runway.”

The Lifetime network released a statement to CNN. “ We are saddened to hear about the passing of a member of the “Project Runway” family, designer Mychael Knight,” the statement said. It’s a loss of a great talent and we wish his family peace and solace during difficult time.”

Born in Nuremberg, Germany, Knight grew up in Montgomery, Alabama and was educated at Georgia Southern University, earning a degree in merchandising and apparel design. Mychael Smith died at his home on Tuesday, October 17, 2017.

—William S. Gooch


The Blonds Spring 2018

Chanel, Thierry Mugler, Oscar de la Renta, Zhandra Rhodes, Calvin Klein, and many other designers established their brand with a signature design aesthetic. And though most iconic brands have evolved their signature look by incorporating a wide array of influences, there are always a few garments in their collections that reflect the signature design aesthetic.

Now, one would not place The Blonds in the same constellation of Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Chanel or Mugler; however, there is no doubt that the design duo of David and Phillipe have established their signature look with their heavily embellished bustier/bodices.

True to form the bedazzled bustier/bodices are back for The Blonds spring 2018 collection. And their fans love it, which was obvious from all the celebrity fans in the front row—Cardi B, Patricia Fields, Deandra Forrest, and others.

Still, this season The Blonds aspired to take their spring 2018 collection beyond bedazzled bustiers and bodysuits. There were glammed-up torn jeans, a head-to-toe gold bedazzled moto jacket with gold jeans, as well as the multi-colored, rainbow fluorescent jacket that Teyana Taylor opened the show in. (Unfortunately Teyana Taylor’s boob-bouncing, turquoise body suit under fluorescent rainbow jacket ensemble did not enhance the show; in fact, it brought a classless patina to a collection that was already heavy on glitzy call girl vibe.) Add to that thigh-high boots, Miss Kitty saloon-inspired garments, as well as a few curvy models, and you have an entertaining show. Not as eye catching as last season, but entertaining nonetheless.

                                                   Images courtesy of EB Consults

Still, does all this bling add up to a fashion collection, or is it just media-grabbing, spectacle moment? Fashion Reverie thinks it is a bit of both. And the both fits right into what New York Fashion Week: The Shows has become, a six-day diatribe on spectacle with a little fashion thrown in for good measure.—William S. Gooch




Alice + Olivia Spring 2018

The line to get into Alice + Olivia’s show was so hectic, a bystander who knew nothing about fashion would walk by and think they were giving away free money in there. But, alas, there was no free cash; however, but was a spring 2018 collection rich in patterns, bold statements, femininity, and style.

Stacey Bendet, the creative brain behind Alice + Olivia, was inspired by the Chelsea Hotel and all its iconic rock n’ roll history for this spring 2018 outing. Bendet attempted to create a collection that projected what the Chelsea Hotel’s iconic female guests would wear now if they were still residents of the Chelsea Hotel. (Think Nancy of the tragic rock couple Sid and Nancy alive and updated.)Bendet’s friend, the artist Lola Schnabel, daughter of downtown iconic artist Julian Schnabel, lived in the Chelsea Hotel at one point. After some extensive research, Bendet invited eight other artists to design rooms for the presentation based on what their rooms would look like if they currently lived in the Chelsea Hotel.     

The collections was a unique blend an homage to the worlds of art and fashion The collection could be described as the late punk 1970s shares a bed with with a contemporary art.    

The collection featured beautiful, bold colors, but there were so many messages lying underneath gorgeous layers of fabric, some more blatant than others. Subtle statements were done in a kitschy way, such as a tee shirt in rainbow sequin letters that said “The World Needs More Sparkle.” Still, other messages were more blatant, such as a backdrop that had the word “FEMINIST” scribbled all over it as two models dressed in pure white perched against the backdrop.          

                                           Images courtesy of Alice + Olivia

A creative reinterpretation of a hotel turned into a story about women, the power of fashion and American cultural motifs. Here in Bendet’s world, women thrive and survive in bright, colorful prints, pussy bows, and ruffle-tiered dresses. Bendet’s talent should be most admired for her ability to bring together eight different artistic visions and create one cohesive collection with cultural and political messages.       In summary, the collection was a mix of rock ‘n roll, color explosion, modern feminism, and art. This cornucopia of boldness, vibrancy and design, all message driven leave a fashion audience wanting more.

—Kristopher Fraser

Laurence & Chico Spring 2018

New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) was created in 1944 by Eleanor Lambert—the first American fashion publicist, and an iconic figure in American fashion— to showcase American fashion designers because the American press could not get to Europe to see the couture shows due to World War II; thus, the original name of fashion week, Press Week.

While that does remain a function of Fashion Week, the week-long event has grown into something so much bigger. In its current incarnation, at NYFWS, simply presenting a collection in the traditional way isn’t enough, it must come with great spectacle to grab attention from editors, bloggers, social media influencers and other industry professionals. The big danger in spectacle presentation is the clothes getting lost in the shuffle.

Laurence & Chico, met while students Parsons School of Design. They both later worked at several luxury houses, launching their own line in 2016. The results of their spring 2018 collection were mind blowing and walked a fine line between eye popping and eye gouging.

The show was a presentation rather than a traditional runway with models perched in a pre-ordained tableau. The room was heady with an earthy green smell that came from the live moss that covered the stage, interspersed with sparkling brightly colored gravel while eerie atmospheric music by Zeng Bohao reminiscent of recently revived “Twin Peaks” played in the background.

One’s eye was immediately drawn to the wild styling. Models wore hat/wigs 2 ft. high and weighing excess of 20 pounds, which cause considerable discomfort. The heat from the wigs and lights nearly overwhelmed some models who were repeatedly brought water of our fear they’d pass out. Some of the wigs were accessorized with gigantic candy wrapper bows. The makeup was feathers glued to lips, pearls glued to eyebrows and some of the models were ‘weeping’ yarn; many of them worse metallic ruched elbow gloves.

It’s easy to see how the clothes can get lost in all that theater, but fortunately the clothes shone brightly enough to find their own spotlight because they were stunning. Unique silhouettes of oversized bomber jackets made entirely of metallic ruffles, worn over dresses of interwoven with pearls, flower embroidery and feathers. Jackets and skirts made of metallic candy wrap interwoven with pearl embellishments. A full-length vest made of red and dark denim tweed with front ties, over a pair of navy skinny jeans that Miley Cyrus was born to wear. Once you look past the eye popping styling the outfits were Avant guard and playful, bursting with color and personality. Even the blazer and skinny pants with their traditional silhouettes were created with fun cartoon prints.

Some of the clothes did look like they might be difficult or uncomfortable to wear but worth it for the look. Keep your eye on Laurence and Chico as Fashion Reverie suspects they may become the next big fashion superstars!

—Cameron Rose

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