Christian Siriano Fall 2015

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Christian Siriano has evolved from that fashion wunderkind with lots of potential to a confirmed fashion innovator who consistently has his pulse of what consumers want and where fashion is heading. He has also learned how to incorporate very retail viable garments with other pieces that stretch the proverbial fashion envelope, a very daunting task to say the least.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

This season Siriano looked to a dream trip to the Congo for inspiration. “The deep, dark and mysterious creatures from the Congo Jungle in the Central African Republic were my main source of inspiration for my fall collection. I was drawn to the home of the silverback gorilla along with other exotic and exquisite creatures … I wanted the collection to feel elegant, powerful, bold but still romantic for the Christian Siriano woman this season,” explained Siriano in liner notes for his fall 2015 show.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Siriano realized this dream trip to the Congo in sleek, burnout wool textured dresses; bold animal-printed jacquard coats, and liquid panther-like velvet evening look.  Long evening dressed incorporated bold patterns of plant life and jungle flora that keep popping up as oversized palm-printed taffetas and bright citrus embroideries, as well as appliques from the African tulip tree and splashes of color reminiscent of the Heliconia plant.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

As with any collection, Siriano fails to disappoint; however, in this outing there were some looks that were overwrought and not flattering to the feminine silhouette.  Siriano’s cropped top looks—leopard jacquard sleeveless cropped blouse and metallic zebra cropped blouse—particularly out of step with the direction of this collection. And Siriano’s two bronze metallic looks—bronze metallic knit sleeveless high-neck dress and bronze metallic knit long-sleeve tunic with wide-leg pant—seemed slightly out of place.

Still, there were stunning standouts that more than make up for a few missteps. Standouts being Siriano’s tiger wool cashmere leaf collar coat, leopard jacquard and tulle overlay gown, off-the-shoulder-cropped blouse with ostrich feather tea-length evening skirt (the crop top worked with look), and African floral taffeta drop-waist ball gown.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Overall, the collection was stunning and a unique combination of familiar silhouettes updated for mass appeal and whimsically thought-provoking, transporters viewers to mysterious, tropical locations without alienating the tried-and-true Siriano fan. And isn’t that what fashion is supposed to; inspire, provoke, transport and make you want to dig a little deeper in your pocket.

Kudos Christian; keep up the fantastic work!!

—William S. Gooch

New York Fashion Week Fall 2015 Preview

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Image courtesy of arcstreet.com

All good things must come to an end and the time has come for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) to say “Adios” to Lincoln Center. After a five-year stint MBFW will be leaving the Plaza and Damrosch Park area of Lincoln Center. After two lawsuits and reduced attendance, IMG, the governing body of MBFW, is looking for another location for its fashion weeks.

There is much speculation on where “The Tents” will set up its tents in September. And with the departure of American Express and Mercedes Benz as primary sponsors, the future does not look so bright for New York Fashion Week. Still, there is the current season to deal with and Fashion Reverie, as always, keeps its readers informed of new designers on the horizons and established designers that are revamping their brands for the upcoming fall/winter season.

Image courtesy of arcstreet.com

Image courtesy of arcstreet.com

Some designers to pay close attention to this season is Marisa Webb and her collaboration with Kanye West for Adidas. As the new creative direction of Adidas, Webb promises to imbibe some new and innovative things for the iconic brand. Lie Sang Bong has finally opened a store in NYC—November 2014. For over 30 years the brand has been associated with cutting-edge luxury and a fashion-forwar approach to clothes. Zac Posen is showcasing his more youthful and less expensive line, Zac by Zac Posen on the Monday before NYFW, and last but not least, Le Petit Robe di Chiara has come across the big pond to show for the first time in the US.

Keep your ears to the ground, this promises to be an eventful NYFW.

—William S. Gooch

Breaking Fashion News: Ralph Rucci Leaves Label

Image courtesy of zimbio.com

Image courtesy of zimbio.com

As reported in WWD today, Ralph Rucci leaves the label he founded two decades ago. Although there is no official reason for Rucci leaving his own eponymous label, rumors have been circulating since late August that things were not honky dory at the fashion brand.

“We recognize the contribution, vision and talent of Mr. Rucci, and wish him well,” said company CEO Joey Laurenti in a wwd.com report. A new creative director will come on board by year’s end with the first collection debuting for Resort 2016. The pre-fall 2015 and fall 2015 collections will be designed by an in-house team.

Chado Ralph Rucci fall 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Chado Ralph Rucci fall 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Ralph Rucci’s fashion label was changed from Chado Ralph Rucci to Ralph Rucci in 2013. Ralph Rucci was the only American designer that has shown consistently during Couture Week in Paris since Charles James.

—William S. Gooch

*Slideshow image courtesy of thegroundmag.com

Haspel Celebrates 105 Years

Haspel spring 015 images courtesy of Haspel

Haspel spring 015 images courtesy of Haspel

It’s a banner year for menswear line Haspel. First and foremost, it’s their 105th anniversary. And how are they celebrating? They started in September with an intimate presentation of their spring/summer 2015 collection co-hosted by Jockey and Esquire Magazine. Second, they held an anniversary party in NYC’s famed Meatpacking District. And third, they’ve teamed up with four other heritage brands to create a limited selection of accessories that compliment the lifestyle of the Haspel man.

Re-launched in the spring of 2014, designers Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos (also designers of award-winning men’s brand Shipley & Halmos) have expanded on the tradition of Haspel. A company founded in 1909 as the originator of the seersucker suit, the brand currently also manufactures menswear in linens and light denims.  For the spring/summer 2015 season, the Haspel customer has a generous selection of sartorial options, from suits to shirts to shorts, in colors ranging from optic whites to sea foam greens and Parisian blues. One of their most eye-catching pieces is their berry-colored Délavé linen suit.

Image of Laurie Haspel Aronson courtesy of Haspel

Image of Laurie Haspel Aronson courtesy of Haspel

To highlight their longevity, the company celebrated its 105th birthday with a New Orleans-themed cocktail party and retrospective at The Griffin in New York’s Meatpacking District. The retrospective included archival suiting displays from the 1930s–1970s and models in Haspel’s fall/winter 2014 collection while music was provided by legendary New Orleans jazz band, Henry Butler & Friends.

Image courtesy of Haspel

Image courtesy of Haspel

To commemorate the brand’s anniversary, Haspel teamed up with Terrapin Stationers, Mulholland, Brooklyn Watches, and AO Eyewear to develop a collection of limited-edition essentials inspired by the Haspel man. Known primarily for suiting and sportswear, the brand has never ventured into accessories, but Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos felt it was the perfect opportunity to do so. “With this anniversary, we wanted to think about the Haspel of the future and how we might round out this guy’s life and wardrobe,” said Halmos. “We also wanted to make sure our collaborators reflected the Haspel man’s sense of humor, style and confidence.”

Cheers to Haspel! For more information, go to haspel.com.

—Carl Ayers

Bridal Beauty Preparations

 

Image courtesy of fashioners.com

Image courtesy of fashioners.com

Weddings are a stressful time and there are lots of little things you might not consider.  Fashion Reverie spoke with the best in the industry about what how to prepare and what to bring with you to ensure that your whole day goes smoothly, from your “I Do’s” to dancing the night away.

Trials, tribulations, and inspiration

“When you’re getting your hair done, go for at least two different trials with two different people,” recommends Jay Ree, lead stylist backstage at Dennis Basso for Kleinfelds.  Ree also recommends “Taking lots of pictures with you of things that you’ve seen.  You don’t necessarily [have to copy the look in it's entirety, you can] incorporate a whole bunch of different things.  Like they say a picture is worth a thousand words.”  Inspirational photos are a great way to insure that both your stylist and makeup artist are on the same page as you.

Double Je image courtesy of Kertase

Double Je image courtesy of Kertase

Once you’ve found your perfect hairstyle, it’s important to make sure the look will last.  Akemi Tamaribuchi, lead hairstylist shares her secret for the perfect wedding hair, “I think that building a strong foundation with your hair is the most important piece. Foundational products and being really smart about addressing your texture is key.”  She recommends Kérastase Paris’ products to keep your hairstyle from falling flat or frizzing up.  “VIP and Baume Double Je are a bride’s best defense for longevity and texture in the hair.”

If you’re going to be wearing a veil, make sure to incorporate it into your hairstyle.  “If you want to go modern, wear it a little lower in the back.  For a more traditional [look] wear it higher on the crown,” shares Pnina Tornai’s lead hairstylist, DM.

It’s also important to do some prep work before the big day.  “I would tell any bride to definitely take care of her skin,” advises Jenny Smith lead artist at Nars.  “Get your facials and everything a month or two before your wedding … It’s always about skin for me.”

When choosing your look, don’t forget to consider your venue. “For outdoor weddings, make sure after you do your makeup trial, take photos outside to see how you look in natural light.”  Don’t forget to also consider the wind and the sun when planning your look for a ceremony outdoors.

Make sure to pack

Makeup artist Kimberly Soane for Bobbi Brown offers a few tips, if you want to change your look up for the reception.   “To make your makeup a little more party, you can try a shimmer in your blush, a sparkle shadow, or a higher shine finish on the lip … will take your bridal makeup into something a bit more party feeling.”

However, even if you plan to keep the same look all night long, Soane shares her top must-haves,  “For touchups, have blotting papers, a puff, and a compact because your T-zone always looks a little bit shiny in photos.  You’ll also want to have your blush and your lipstick.  The rest of your makeup should hold for the night.” “Oh and don’t forget the tissues and breath mints,” Soane adds.

Sally Herschberger product image courtesy of Sally Herschberger

Sally Hershberger product image courtesy of Sally Hershberger

When it comes to your hair, a properly done up-do should last all night, but make sure to pack a few extra bobby pins in your purse just in case.  The bride who prefers to wear her hair down faces a few more challenges with a night of dancing ahead of her. A great spray is the ticket for touching up hair that may have a tendency to lose its style over time, explains stylist Jae Manuel Cardenas. “Sally Hershberger created a major caffeine volumizing spray, [called Major Body 3-in-1 Volume Spray] with a light hold.  It’s a dry shampoo and a texturizer all in one and everyone’s kinda crazy for it right now.  [As a bride,] you go throughout the day, you’re dancing, you’re doing whatever. Just put it in your purse, spray a little bit and brush it out.  It really holds.  It’s not too crunchy…  It doesn’t have that tacky strong hold of a hairspray … This is the best refresher right now”

Things to avoid

“One of the biggest bridal faux pas that Bobbi [Brown] has taught all of us is that you want to make sure your face, neck and chest are all the same color… for a lot of people, the neck is a little whiter and the chest may have more color [from being in the sun.] Make sure with your bronzer and face powder that it all connects.”  But Soane warns, “Never put foundation on your neck and chest because it will look like makeup, but a bit of bronzer will help color connect it all.”

Bobbi Brown bronzer image courtesy of Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown bronzer image courtesy of Bobbi Brown

Heidi Evora-Santiago, lead makeup artist at Dennis Basso also recommends staying away from “Too many colors on the eye.” “I like things to blend.  Your makeup should be a frame, it shouldn’t be the focus.”

Remember it is your wedding day so you want to make sure you feel beautiful in your own skin.  Wedding beauty trends are great, but do what works for you!

—Janine Silver

*Slideshow image courtesy of Junebugweddings.com

Wednesday Sample Sale: Week of October 14, 2014

Fashion Reverie seeks to keep its loyal readers informed of great samples sales. Just remember, product disappears quickly, so it is important to get there early. Also, some sample sales won’t let you try on garments, so know your size. Happy Shopping!!

slide5BRANDS: White + Warren Sample Sale

WHEN: Wednesday, October 15 through Friday, October 17. Wed–Thu 8am–7pm, Fri 8am–1pm

WHY: Up to 70% off women’s wool and cashmere apparel.

Where: 80 West 40th Street

 IIIBeCa-by-Joy-Gryson-Murray-Street-Crossbody-Bag

BRANDS: Joy Gryson Sample Sale

WHEN: 10/14 – 10/19; Tue-Sun (10-7)

WHY: Shop handbags, totes and more at up to 80% off retail prices.

Where: Chelsea Market, 75 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY

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BRANDS: Quinn Sample Sale

WHEN: Thursday, October 16 through Wednesday, October 22. Thu–Sat 12pm–8pm, Sun 12pm–5pm, Mon–Wed 12pm–8pm

WHY: Up to 80% off men’s and women’s clothing and accessories. Items include cashmere knits, leather jackets, silk shirts and dresses, and more.

Where: 181 Orchard St between E Houston and Ludlow Sts (646-669-9348)

—Staff

Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2015

Anne_Barge_Fall_2015When it comes to classic bridal silhouettes, Anne Barge is right up there in the bridal pantheon alongside Dennis Basso, Oleg Cassini, Anna Maier, and Alfred Angelo. This season Anne Barge did not veer too far away from what is working for the brand; which is a good choice.

Anne_Barge_Fall_20153A master at finding ways to keep classic silhouettes fresh and interesting, this season Barge infused her fall 2015 collection with the current trends of sheer illusions, cutouts, beaded and sequined midriff embellishments, and detachable skirts. Though Barge stayed true to her brand’s penchant for traditional bridal gowns, for fall 2015 the brand embraced interesting fabrications—Kalika linen, dupioni, and satin stripe organza—that elevated the collection to a dissertation on where traditional bridal gowns are heading.

Though this outing was mostly a bridal compendium on traditional silhouettes—mermaid, fit-to-flare, ball gowns, A-line and sheath gowns—, Barge did experiment with some modern trends. Her detachable train was a departure from bridal looks we have seen in past collections, as well as her venture into masculine/feminine perspectives seen in a strapless gown with charmeuse lapels, jeweled buttons, a belt and deep pockets.

Anne_Barge_Fall_20152

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were Barge’s mini dress of dupioni and Alencon lace with bateau neckline and deep V-back, separate overskirt of dupioni accented b Alencon lace bodering front opening, tailored stapless gown of satin stripe organza with band at neckline an self belt accented with rhinestone buckle, and strapless trumpet gown of Kalika with notched neckline accented by Alencon lane and empire pleated band of charmeuse.

—William S. Gooch

 

Michael Costello Spring 2015

Collages412For spring 2015 Michael Costello looked to the goddess inside every woman. This goddess, supernatural spirit inhabits forests, fields, caves, lakes and the sea. She is alluring to men and attracts to the attention of gods and demigods. Aloof and magical, this woman marches to her own beat, always in control of her amorous interludes, inspired by earth elements and the inner workings of otherworldly manifestations.

Collages413In this spring 2015 collection, Costello relies heavily on mermaid silhouettes, as well as other silhouettes that show off a woman’s curves. Costello hit many of the right notes a collection that was majestic, elegant and editorial. Still those right notes all came together cohesively as one note, focusing sometimes too much on the mermaid silhouette. When Costello veered away from the sculptural mermaid silhouette, the collection began to have more depth, nuance, and whimsy.

Collages414Costello stayed on trend with lots of illusions, sheer fabrics and skin exposure. Though the reveals were for the most part tastefully done, it is hard to imagine women outside the realm of models, actresses, and pop stars having the gumption to expose their “goodies” to the masses.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

What Costello did manage to do in this outing is beautifully express his aesthetic through sheer florals, beading, metallic fabrics and colorations that adequately referenced earth elements and his goddess motif. The craft demonstrated in this spring collection solidly places Michael Costello among that new breed of designers that is pushing the genre into new directions, harnessing all the tools of textile innovation, construction and a fashion-forward point of view to create garments that are now and next.

—William S. Gooch

Sally Lapointe Spring 2015

Collages390What can be said of Sally Lapointe? Well, the one thing that can be said is that season after season; the brand never fails to deliver. Since Fashion Reverie has been covering Sally Lapointe, we have seen her evolve her aesthetic to include a range of perspective without loosing her core point of view.

From collections that have incorporated Lapointe’s futuristic mien to collections that displayed Lapointe’s penchant for dramatic statement pieces, season after season the brand continues to refine its aesthetic, crystalizing its creative point of view into pristine reflection of Lapointe’s seemingly endless reservoir of design talent and craftsmanship.

Collages389For spring 2015, Lapointe was back to the urban fashion warrior; a direct departure from her more elegant fashion dissertation on column silhouettes and coats with restrained volume. Never one to abandon a point of view that has sustained the brand; Lapointe juxtaposes masculine and feminine and the hard and soft like no other. And this collection is possibly her strongest mix of those disparate elements. Those elements are ideally expressed through Lapointe’s pairing of sheer diaphanous tops with skirts that had volume and structure.

Though this collection fostered a minimalist approach, there was lots of design in this spring outing.  Structured skirts contained back zipper details, simple shift-like tees, bandeau, and crop tops were ingeniously paired with asymmetrical structured skirts, ostrich-feathered tops were coupled with asymmetrical skirts, and cropped bomber jackets worked well with structured midi dresses and skirts.

Collages388And just when you thought this would be a dissertation on neutrals, Lapointe ingeniously injected rustic orange and salmon tone variations. If there was one misstep in this collection, it was the studded oversized belts that worked well on some looks but made other looks lose the lightness that permeated throughout the lineup.

 

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Lapointe’s deceptive “less is more” allowed her in this collection to demonstrate the genius of her craft. And where others who follow this directive produce collections that fail to make a statement, with Sally Lapointe this point of view only highlights what many fashion pundits have know for some time.  Sally Lapointe rocks!!

—William S. Gooch

 

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