New York International Bridal Week Fall 2018 Pre-Coverage

                                               Image courtesy of bridalmusings.com

On the heels of the hustle and bustle of global fashion weeks—New York, London, Milan, Paris—fall 2018 shows, it is always great to go back to a fashion week that is sublime, calm, and sometimes ethereal. What Fashion Week am I talking about? I am talking about New York International Bridal Week.

For those who are not aware, unlike ready-to-wear women’s and men’s collection, bridal fashion week are mostly one year ahead in presenting their bridal collections, understanding that the average bride plans her nuptials a year in advance. These international bridal weeks are presenting bridal collections that will cater to future brides for the fall 2018 season.

For over seven seasons, Fashion Reverie has been bringing in-depth coverage of New York International Bridal Week. This season there are some new additions do our bridal coverage, as well as our favorites. Expect coverage of Justin Alexander, Mark Zunino, Lakum, Gracey Accad, and Reem Acra, all new additions to our bi-yearly coverage. And as always, viewers can expect reviews of Amsale, Ines di Santo, Anne Barge, Inbal Dror, Theia, and Yolancris.

This promises to be a more expansive and exciting bridal season. Enjoy!!

—William S. Gooch

NYFW: The Shows Spring 2018 Beauty: Roughed-Up Waves

                                          Nicole Miller spring 2018 image courtesy of

Wild, yet chic waves took center stage at Nicole Miller‘s spring 2018 presentation at New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). The slightly messy, yet still perfectly put-together look, paired well with Miller’s designs, which also master the art of juxtaposition.

“Inspired by the classic Clark Gable and Ava Gardner movie, “Mogambo,” and the concept of a city girl dispatched into safari but ill equipped for the elements. She shows up in her high heels— certainly fabulous but a little askew. Ladylike lace dresses are mixed with structured neutrals, and classic safari tones and textures are juxtaposed with our signature bold prints, evoking a sense of adventure and play.”Rodney Cutler, lead hair stylist for Cutler/Redken Salons, crafted the “roughed-up and tied-back waves” to complement this “journey into the wild.” To get the disheveled, “lazy wave” look, Cutler blows the hair out with some product. Or should we say a lot of product. This look uses 6 different products including Cutler Volumizing Spray, Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Hairspray, Redken Wind Blown 05, Redken Wax Blast 10, Redken Powder Grip 03 and Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Two-Day Extender Dry Shampoo!

Once it’s ready to be transformed into those haphazard waves, the hair is set in spirals with a curling iron. Cutler recommends omitting the ends entirely. “The important thing is that you set the root first. Most people at home just set it at the ends and it concentrates at the end.” So make sure to start curling your hair from the very top and stop before you reach the ends. The finished look, that has appropriately been coined as “Mane to be Wild,” is finished off by tying pieces of the hair back and winding in strips of fabric.

                                          All images courtesy of Nicole Miller

Ultimately, the look was simplified a bit for Miller’s presentation, keeping the waves loose and free. It’s not uncommon for a look to be adapted backstage at a show, especially as designers want to make sure you’re not distracted from the clothes. However, both the initial look and the more simplified final look can smoothly be transitioned from the catwalk to the street! So keep it simple, with beautiful breezy waves or tie it back with fabric and get creative, either way, you can’t go wrong!

Does the original hairstyle seem familiar? You might recall seeing a similar look adorned with strips of fabric in Fashion Reverie’s summer editorial!

—Janine Silver

 

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2018

You can’t know where you are going if you don’t know where you’ve been. Maria Cornejo of Zero + Maria Cornejo remembered her roots for her spring 2018 collection. The impetus for Cornejo’s burgeoning fashion line was a striped triangle top created in a small studio and store on Mott Street in New York City’s NoLita neighborhood in the summer of 1998. It was this single piece that launched Cornejo’s line, a line that’s still successful

This season’s collection was a throwback to the first days of Zero + Maria Cornejo, albeit with contemporary twists mixed in. Cornejo and her design team delved through the brand’s archives to create a continued signature vision that could appeal to today’s contemporary woman. Sculptural draped dresses have long been a part of the brand’s DNA, and in this spring 2018 outing Cornejo demonstrated that these draped garments still work for female consumers.

The woman of today doesn’t want to be too confined or boxed-in with her varied and busy life. And Cornejo’s silhouettes are perfect for that woman who wants to give the illusion she is wearing something somewhat form- fitting, and yet, still giving her freedom of movement.

While the designer is also known for minimalism in structure, she doesn’t shy away from bright colors or luxurious materials. The opening look of a pod dress in silk charmeuse was on trend for spring/summer 2018, with pink popping up in multiple collections in all shades from pastel pink to blush pink.

As part of this whole “Back to the Future” approach to clothing—not referencing the 1980s cult classic—Cornejo featured new garments that were paired with looks from previous collections. For example,one model walked the runway in Cornejo’s Orion Dress from fall 2017, paired with a new cropped fin pant in bi-color satin.

Cornejo demonstrates in this collection that timeless garments can continue to have consumer appeal, and even though some garments go off trend, they will eventually come back into fashion. After all, fashion may have a time limit, but style does not.

                                                   Images courtesy of PR Consulting

Cornejo has always had a singular vision, a vision that she has never compromised as evidenced by the mix of the old and the new. Shapes and silhouettes seen in past collections were transformed in this collection into new incarnations. The essence of her brand’s DNA, as evidenced in this collection, included matte, shine, black, white, feminine, masculine, straight lines, circles, fluid drape, sculptural volume, stripes, ruching, fluo color, color block, and double face textiles.

To sum up the spring 2018 collection, the collection was simply Maria.

—Kristopher Fraser

Alice + Olivia Spring 2018

The line to get into Alice + Olivia’s show was so hectic, a bystander who knew nothing about fashion would walk by and think that free money was being given away. But, alas, there was no free cash; however, but was a spring 2018 collection rich in patterns, bold statements, femininity, and style.      

Stacey Bendet, the creative brain behind Alice + Olivia, was inspired by the Chelsea Hotel and all its iconic Rock n’ Roll history for this spring 2018 outing. Bendet attempted to create collection that projected what the Chelsea Hotel’s iconic female guests would wear now if they were still residents of the Chelsea Hotel. (Think Nancy of the tragic rock couple Sid and Nancy alive and updated.)Bendet’s friend, the artist Lola Schnabel, daughter of downtown iconic artist Julian Schnabel, lived in the Chelsea Hotel at one point. After some extensive research, Bendet invited eight other artists to design rooms for the presentation based on what their rooms would look like if they currently lived in the Chelsea Hotel.     

The collections was a unique blend an homage to the worlds of art and fashion The collection could be described as the late punk 1970s shares a bed with with a contemporary art.     

The collection featured beautiful, bold colors, but there were so many messages lying underneath gorgeous layers of fabric, some more blatant than others. Subtle statements were done in a kitschy way, such as a tee shirt in rainbow sequin letters that said “The World Needs More Sparkle.” Still, other messages were more blatant, such as a backdrop that had the word “FEMINIST” scribbled all over it as two models dressed in pure white perched against the backdrop.     

                                                    Images courtesy of Alice + Olivia

A creative reinterpretation of a hotel turned into a story about women, the power of fashion and American cultural motifs. Here in Bendet’s world, women thrive and survive in bright, colorful prints, pussy bows, and ruffle-tiered dresses. Bendet’s talent should be most admired for her ability to bring together eight different artistic visions and create one cohesive collection with cultural and political messages.

In summary, the collection was a mix of rock ‘n roll, color explosion, modern feminism, and art. This cornucopia of boldness, vibrancy and design, all message driven leave a fashion audience wanting more.

—Kristopher Fraser

New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 Sketches

                            Leanne Marshall spring 2018 sketch

No matter who your favorite designers/brands are, all of their impressive collections come from a very focused perspective and inspiration. And though the art of sketching may be a fading art in the expanding frontier of technology, there are still some designers that sit down with pen and paper—and in some cases stylo and Thinkpad—and begin the process of designing their collections season after season

“Project Runway” is the not only place who will witness the sketches of great collections, at Fashion Reverie every season we also curate sketches for the upcoming season. And even though the retail market is constricting, the inspiration and the brilliant design acuity continues

Since her stint and win on “Project Runway,” Leanne Marshall has been a constant presence during New York Fashion Week. This season Marshall’s theme was the “Green Diamond Wall.” And Marshall’s “transportation to the other side of the green diamond wall” will contain her signature aesthetic of eco-friendly, restrained volume expressed through diaphanous fabrics. Additionally, there will possibly be a nod to futuristic projections. Fashion Reverie cannot wait to report on Leanne Marshall’s spring 2018 collection.

Dan Liu has presented at New Fashion Week: The Shows for several seasons and for the spring 2018 season, Liu looked to seaside life for inspiration. “People say, “Smell the Sea, Feel the Breeze, Hear the Ocean, Be at Ease”… which is true and I love the way how people feel about beaches and sea breeze, but to me, it’s a lot more than that.  To me, it is okay to be sad in life, it’s okay to be hurt in love, and it’s fine only the ocean is there to be with me … because to me, “feeling” is much more important than other senses that we have.  Yes, our eyes can see and ears can hear, but I’d rather “feel” because by feeling, even though I’m all alone and sad in the beach, I know the Sun will eventually warm me up, the sand will comfortably soap my feet, and certainly, see breeze will give me a hug thru inside out. No one wants to be sad and lonely… and no one loves failure … but this is the only way we can live our lives completely and feel alive when we search our feelings with our soul,” detailed Dan Liu.

There are several designers with the last name Zhang showing during NYFWS spring 2018 season. The standout among designers with similar names is Jarel Zhang.

Zhang launched in fashion line in 2015 centering his collections on serving urban women with a independent, unique design aesthetic. Jarel Zhang drew inspiration from the chaos, construction, and movement of the New York City streets. He found beauty in the chaos and the structure. 

All images courtesy of the Riviera Agency

GALITSCOPIO is an Asian brand that established itself for making decorative, sometimes blinged-out timepieces. A few years ago, GALITSCOPIO expanded to include other accessories and garments into its collections.

For GALITSCOPIO’s NYFWS debut, the brand brings its bedazzled beauty to women from different backgrounds, lifestyles, and work. Femininity in GALTISCOPIO style always ensures mesmerizing elegant exquisiteness, adding more glamorous flair for the ladies this spring and summer, TIME TO SHINE!

—Staff

Campaign Feature: Wix’s “Zero Gravity”

Stav Strashko poses in ZERO-GRAVITY. Image courtesy of PRNewsfoto/Wix.com Ltd.

The fashion industry is always looking for new ideas and concepts to inspire new fashion collections, campaigns and editorial shoots. Iconic fashion editor Diana Vreeland was a master at finding unique locations for what became iconic fashion editorials in Harper’s Bazaar and American Vogue in the 1950s and 60s.

Who can forget Dovina posing with a circus elephant, Nastassja Kinski with a boa, or Verushka pairing with a very tall Samurai warrior in the snowy mountains of Japan? These iconic fashion images are etched in our minds for time eternal.

You might want to add to those iconic images Reiko Wakai “Zero Gravity” fashion shoot for Wix’s “Capture Your Dream” campaign. Though zero gravity fashion photography has been done before, Wakai took the genre to a new level by employing transgendered top model Stav Strashko. Fashion Reverie was fortunate to interview both Wakai and Stav Strashko about this very interesting fashion editorial.

                             Image of Stav Strashko and Reiko Wakai  courtesy of wix.com

Fashion Reverie: Why the concept of Zero Gravity for this fashion shoot?

Reiko Wakai: When I found out about Wix’s “Capture Your Dream Photo” campaign, I entered the contest by submitting my Wix website and dream shoot and won! The idea of the campaign was photographers with a Wix website to submit their portfolio and describe their dream photo shoot. I came up with the idea of the shoot while watching television with my father on New Year’s. We were watching a program about indoor skydiving and found it very interesting. As a fashion photographer, I am always thinking about how to incorporate what inspires me into my work. That’s how I came up with an idea of a fashion photo shoot with a model floating in mid-air. When I learned about the campaign, I knew I had to take the chance to win the opportunity of a lifetime.

FR: Zero gravity as a concept for a fashion shoot has been done before, what makes this shoot stand out?

Reiko Wakai: Unlike other photo shoots, this was one that was not done for a specific fashion label or with a specific editorial shoot in mind. Wix took me into zero gravity to help me capture my dream photograph. This a huge differentiator and truly amazing. Most photographers never have an international team come together to help them fulfill a dream. This shoot was one where the I was able to have creative control while working within the parameters set by the Federal Aviation Administration. FR: Why the choice of trans model Stav Strashko for this shoot? 

Reiko Wakai: I first saw Stav Strashko in a major international campaign did. I was impressed by her beauty and enigmatical look, and started to look for more details about her. Once I started following her on Instagram, I also started to hope to photograph her one day. For Wix’s “Capture Your Dream Photo” contest, Wix offered me the choice to choose any model I wanted, so naturally, Stav was one of my first choices.

FR: What garments did you use in the shoot, and why?

Reiko Wakai: I worked with stylist, Mimi Fisher, to develop an aesthetic that was futuristic and space-like, and with an abundance of metallic tones. With limited time inflight for a style change, Mimi layered Stav Strashko with the top layer taking inspiration from a stylish astronaut that was dressed in a high-end metallic suit with a backpack and tubing that swirled around her. Changing between parabolas, Stav was stripped to the first layer of clothing: a beautiful futuristic alien, that dons elegance and grace.

                                             Image courtesy of PRNewsfoto/Wix.com Ltd.

FR: What are the difficulties in capturing the right images and poses when using zero gravity?

Stav Strashko: There were a few challenges, the biggest one being in zero gravity itself. We only have 15, 30-seconds shoots to get the right photo. Because we were in zero gravity our bodies were constantly moving, and it was hard to look at the camera because of the feeling of disorientation. One of the biggest difficulties was looking beautiful and graceful while in zero gravity. That said; Reiko was a pleasure to work with and was extremely professional the entire time.

FR: How long did the shoot take?

Stav Strashko: The shoot took place for the duration of one flight in which we only had 15, 30-second chances in zero gravity to capture Reiko’s dream photo.

FR: How hard was it get the right poses for the shoot and how long did it take for you to adjust to zero gravity? 

Stav Strashko: It was difficult. Both I and Reiko were floating, so I’d have to pay attention to where the camera was and being in zero gravity makes it very difficult to focus on one spot. We had to adjust very quickly as we were doing this entire shoot during the duration of one flight. Knowing the time constraints, we had to adjust instantly. We first started in martian, and then lunar gravity so that we better adapt to the sensation, though it is such a strange sensation to get used to.

   Stav Strashko poses in spacesuit in ZERO-GRAVITY.  Image courtesy of PRNewsfoto/Wix.com Ltd.

FR: Was there any special training involved for this kind of shoot?

Stav Strashko: Yes. We were told in advance what to eat, as well as how to prepare ourselves. Prior to the flight, we had a training course where we learned more about the mechanics of what we were about to experience and how to make the most of it.

FR: Would you do it again?

Stav Strashko: Definitely! Because I was working and doing something different. It would be great to experience it as a passenger.

—Staff

 

 

Summer Beauty: It’s Time for Sunshine and Romance

Three_Graces_Beauty_TrioBring the romance of summer front and center with soft twisted hair in classic shapes and rosy-hued cheeks.  Since summertime means longer days, sunshine and hot humid weather, it’s the perfect opportunity to try out some gauzy and unstructured styles.

Soft natural waves are the perfect look this time of year.  This no fuss style is ideal, as it doesn’t require sitting in front of a mirror with a hot curling iron or straightener.  If your hair is naturally straight, fake a wave by sectioning your hair into four pieces and braiding each one before heading to bed.  Spray with a little hairspray to keep the style.

Three_Graces_Beauty_Duo

In the morning, simply un-do the braids and brush out the waves with a soft bristle brush or your fingertips.  You don’t want to completely loose the effect, so make sure only to run the brush or your fingers through once or twice.  Keep the hair off your face by making a deep side part and pinning in back sections for a light and easy half up-do.  You can accent with optional twists and/or braids to enhance that classical romantic aesthetic.

Another option that is great for both long and shorter hairstyles starts by creating a large loose French braid around the crown of the head.  Make sure to pull pieces of hair out to keep it from looking overdone.  To give the look a little something extra, try braiding in ribbons of lace.  Then with the remaining hair, make a side ponytail or bun at the nape of your neck for an easy style that not only looks beautiful, but will also keep you cool and comfortable when the temperature rises.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Finish the look off with a flush of soft pink on the cheeks and lips for the perfect dreamy warm-weather beauty look.

—Janine Silver

Fashion Flashback: Gone But Not Out Menswear Brands

Greg Lauren image courtesy of pinterest.com

Greg Lauren image courtesy of pinterest.com

On the eve of New York Fashion: Men’s spring 2018, Fashion Reverie looks back at menswear brands that had a strong presence in the American menswear scene, but lost momentum and are no longer a part of the US men’s fashion market. Most of these brands had a distinct, signature voice and spoke to an evolving, diverse menswear audience that was thirsty for something innovative and fashion forward.

Still, though most of these menswear brands had some traction, circumstances forced them out of the menswear milieu. While some of these menswear brand creative directors have popped up at other menswear companies, their own individual creative mien is sadly missed.  And, with the current state of the global retail market; perhaps, if some these menswear brands had managed to maintain market viability, there would be more vitality and perspective in the menswear market.

Antonio Azzuolo fall 2012

Antonio Azzuolo fall 2012

One of the most highly missed menswear brands in the depressed American menswear market is Antonio Azzuolo. After honing his craft at Hermes, Kenzo, and Galeries Lafayette in Paris, Azzuolo took up the mantle of design director at Ralph Lauren’s Purple Label and Black Label in 2006. In 2008 Azzuolo launched his eponymous label and quickly became a strong presence on the US menswear scene.  a.a. antonio azzuolo is a New York–based menswear brand that focuses on street wear seen through a refined lens.

Though the brand is not technically extinct, Azzuolo has not made a new collection in a few seasons. Fashion wagging tongues confide that Azzuolo is now working for Warby Parker.

Unruly Heir fall 2013 image courtesy of fashionbeans.com

Unruly Heir fall 2013 image courtesy of fashionbeans.com

Known for their out-of-the box, irreverent presentations during New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Unruly Heir was launched in 2008 by Joey Goodwin and John Gagliano. Unruly Heir placed a tongue-and-cheek, irreverent twist on classic menswear attire, providing one-of-a-kind pieces for the tailored young man whose lifestyle goes against formal society.

You never knew what you were getting at one of Unruly Heir’s fashion week presentations. You might witness a staged catwalk rumble or food fight, but it was all fun and part of theatre that longer exist during NYFW. Though Unruly Heir’s website is still active and you can purchase merchandise, their NYC presence is all but gone.

Marlon Gobel fall 2014 image courtesy of fashionreverie.com

Marlon Gobel fall 2014 image courtesy of fashionreverie.com

One of the most innovative voices on the American menswear landscape was Marlon Gobel. In his first seven years in the menswear market, Gobel worked for some of most prestigious brands in menswear, Thom Browne and Michael Bastian. In 2010 Marlon Gobel launched in eponymous brand that was immediately picked up by Bergdorf Goodman.

Gobel’s design oeuvre was innovative construction with a penchant for glam with a modern sensibility. During NYFW, Gobel always had some of the best male models in his shows including Henry Watkins and Sebastian Suave. Though Gobel still has a Facebook presence, his website only consists of a 2015 video. Gobel has not created a new menswear collection for several seasons.

Alexandre Plohkov images courtesy of pinterest

Alexandre Plohkov images courtesy of pinterest

Alexandre Plokhov’s menswear brand is technically still in existence, but after taking up the mantle at Helmut Lang, not a lot has been going on at Plokov’s eponymous brand. Plokov established himself as an innovative designer when he launched Cloak in 2000. Cloak won the Ecco Domani award in 2003 and the 2005 CFDA Swarovski Perry Ellis Award for Menswear. Plokhov became known for his military goth style that included razor sharp tailoring, details and luxurious fabrics.

After Cloak shuttered due to partnership disagreements in Plokhov launched his namesake line in 2010. Alexandre Plokhov became one of the must-see menswear brands during NYFW. However, after Plokhov moved over to Helmut Lang, Plohkov announced on Instagram in late December 2015 he would be shutting down his eponymous line. That said; word on the street is that Plokhov has bee replaced at Helmut Lang by the design team from Hood by Air.

Greg Lauren Spring 2016 images courtesy of losarys.com

Greg Lauren Spring 2016 images courtesy of losarys.com

Greg Lauren’s menswear collection had a lot of traction in the menswear market. After being the darling of New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Lauren has all but disappeared. Launched in 2011, Lauren’s namesake brand set a standard for distressed aesthetics.

From his initial launch, Greg Lauren’s men’s and women’s collections were picked up by Bergdorf Goodman and many mainstream department stores and boutiques. Yet, Greg has been suspiciously absent from the NYFW scene, although his spring 2017 and 2018 collections are available for purchase through is online site.

—William S. Gooch

Rock It or Leave It on the Runway Summer 2017 Styles

Photo of Debi Mazar courtesy of Tom and Lorenzo Photo of Gabrielle Union courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com


Photos of Gabrielle Union and Debi Mazar courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com

All white outfits

Summer is a time for white and this year, all white outfits are heating up the red carpet. While most acknowledge that the rule of no white after Labor Day doesn’t apply anymore, all white outfits work best during the summer season. White does create a blank canvas that can add bulk so you want to watch your silhouette. Don’t be afraid to add a colorful accessory, some bright sandals, an elaborate statement necklace or wide belts that are very on trend right now. Most importantly, make sure to pack some stain remover wipes or a Tide Pen!

Rock it!

Logan Browning courtesy of Getty Images

Logan Browning courtesy of Getty Images and Gillian Jacobs image courtesy of celebmafia.com

Feathers

Unique touches that create an interesting outfit on the red carpet are tough to pull off.  You don’t want to wear a boring garment, but if you don’t edit, you risk looking like you’re wearing a costume rather than a chic look. Sadly, the recent trend of feathers on the red carpet veers deeply into costume territory. When feathers adorn a short dress, the wearer can sometimes look like they’ve donned a figure skating getup. Feathers on full-length gowns scream, “Everything, but the kitchen sink!” And, the silhouette of feathers on gloves; well, there are no words!!

Leave it!

Photo of Emily Blunt Courtesy of Tom and Lorenzo Photo of Jenny Slate courtesy of Getty Images

Photo of Emily Blunt Courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com and photo of Yara Shahidi courtesy of Just Jared

Ruffles

Ruffles have been making a comeback in a big way and they have been all over the red carpet. They are fun and can add layer and dimension; however, wearing ruffles can be tricky. Horizontal ruffles can create the illusion of width, so you want to be careful of where they hit you on the body.  Head to toe ruffles is a look reserved largely for those five and under; you know, young children. Ruffles work best as an accent. Many celebs are wearing them on their sleeves. As long as you keep an eye on proportions ruffles are fun and an easy look.

Rock it!

Rock_It_Leave_It_July_2017

Photo of Karen Gillian courtesy of Getty Images and photo of Susan Sarandon courtesy of EPA

 Velvet

Spending your summer doing promotion on a red carpet is a world most of us will never experience. Stylists spend an inordinate amount of their time putting together the perfect photo friendly outfit and studios put together budgets that include comfortable cars and a driver eager to ferry the stars from one air-conditioned event to the other. Which is how they can indulge in one of the most ridiculous trends to appear on the red carpet in a while. Velvet? FOR SUMMER, REALLY!!   Velvet is a wonderful, but very warm. Embrace this trend and the only thing bigger than your dry-cleaning bill will be the bill from the ER when you pass out from heat stroke. This one is a huge NOPE.

Leave it! (At least until November)

—Cameron Grey Rose

 

New York International Bridal Week: Spring 2018

Images courtesy of pinterest.com

Images courtesy of pinterest.com

Every one loves a spring bride; especially in you are in New York City during the week of April 17. That’s right; New York International Bridal Week will soon be upon us. From April 20-25, some of the top bridal designers in the world will descend on New York City presenting the latest bridal trends.

Fashion Reverie will be front and center, bringing its viewing audience the latest collections from the top designers in the bridal market. This season expect some new additions to the Fashion Reverie roundup—Naeem Khan, Francesca Miranda, and Justin Alexander.

—Staff

Copyright © 2012-2017 | Fashion Reverie Publications, LLC - All Rights Reserved