Vivienne Tam Fall 2017

Vivienne_Tam_Fall_2017Vivienne Tam’s fall 2017 collection was off the beaten path for Tam’s penchant for layering unisex looks with mild colors. Though Tam’s oeuvre for layering and mixing and matching was still in place, Tam employed more sophistication and panache this season.

This season Vivienne’s imagination took her to Hong Kong nightlife. Hong Kong has a very active nightlife, a nightlife that for three decades has been a go-to destination for night revelers. With its many bright lights and Western influences, Hong Kong  has long been a melting pot of the confluences of Far East and Western cultures. With that in mind, Tam’s fall 2017 collection aptly expressed that East meets West blend of cultures seen through the lens of Hong Kong’s nightlife.

Collages1169Tam’s line consisted of fashion forward, disco-inspired clothes with amazing embellishments of sequins and metallic fabrics. Unfortunately, Tam’s mixture of bright color combinations and with sequin overlays, almost like a 3D moving part didn’t always work; however, for a night out on the town Tam’s sequined silver bomber jacket with a sheer elongated top and jeans—Tam loves a bomber jacket—can offer a modern, fresh look compared to the usual skintight, form-hugging dresses normally seen at nightclubs.

Collages1170Tam should be credited for risk taking, always combining sheers with heavy textures and somehow it usually works. Even Tam’s mixture of colored sequins on one dress seemed to present a more contemporary look than 1970s looks from those who were habitués at discos every weekend. Additionally, Tam’s use of ruching and draping, ever present in this collections pants, skirts and dresses, was a gentle nod to Madame Gres. Instead of giving the collection a vintage look, Tam ingeniously found a modern take of draping and ruching that would appeal to a younger audience.

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini/vogue.com

Images courtesy of Umberto Fratini/vogue.com

With Tam’s ‘Hong Kong City of Lights’ design motif Tam transformed simple designs into special pieces that can be worn over street clothes. This dissimilar combination was a new way of presenting the current trend of shimmery, shiny metallics that was prevalent in other collections all season. And by mix and matching metallic with everyday staples, Tam continues to forge a fashion path in the ever-present, all consuming youth demographic.

—Rosemary Ponzo

 

The Blonds Fall 2017

The_Blonds_Fall_2017This season The Blonds moved beyond garments that primarily function as performance or stage garments for some of the decade’s most popular and stage artists. (Think Rihanna, Selena Gomez, Madonna, Beyonce, Jennifer Lopez, Nicki Minaj, Miley Cyrus, and Katy Perry.) Though the design duo has attempted to create collections that could be more red carpet or appeal to that fashionista party girl, they duo has never quite achieved this particular projection until the fall 2017collection. And The Blonds achieved their goal in a big way.

Inspired by Universal Pictures’ remake of “The Mummy,” The Blonds created a fashion narrative of a princess whose destiny is aborted by her untimely death and is brought back to life in modern times. We see this princess evolved from a fantasy figure into a real-time powerful woman. The Blonds also play special attention to the dual nature of the protagonist evidenced in diaphanous sheer fabrics embellished with crystals and sequins juxtaposed against The Blonds signature look of architectural, structured corsets.

Collages1131The Blonds’ re-imagined princess has both hard and soft aspects to her personality. She is powerful and fragile; sexy and sophisticated; bold and demure, all the qualities that the modern woman has successfully melded into her own persona.

Though this fall 2017 collection is still very MTV Awards and stage wardrobe–focused, there are several looks that could work on the red carpet or other special events. And the return of supermodel Stacey Mckenzie to the New York Fashion Week runway was an unexpected and welcome addition to the show. (If only some of younger models had her sass and pizazz on the runway!!)

Images courtesy of Lecca/EB Consults

Images courtesy of Lecca/EB Consults

Standout looks in the collection include, but are not limited to the brand’s cobalt corset with ombré ostrich feathers, distressed denim, and pearl detail, Dunes distressed denim jeans with ombré ostrich feather and pearl detail paired with crystal and pearl neck piece, blond flare crystal mesh with burnout lace and crystal detail with black velvet bomber with black ostrich feather hood, and black mesh bodysuit with crystal detail.

—William S. Gooch

Katty Xiomara Fall 2017

Collages1201Over 450 designers/brands show collections during New York Fashion Week. With so many brands showing new collections, it is a challenge for a small, boutique brand to distinguish itself from the over abundance of collections. Not only is it dizzying for industry professional, bustling from show to show, it is also a task for industry professionals to remember what they may have just witnessed unless a brand has found a way to set itself apart.

Some brands get around this by scheduling their fashion presentations a few days before fashion week, others try gimmicks, some fashion brands just present their best. Katty Xiomara did the latter!!

Katty_Xiomara_Fall_2017For a few seasons Katty Xiomara has established that it’s signature design DNA is fun, flirty, feminine looks with a bit of a twist. For fall 2017 Xiomara re-established this signature look and took it further.

For fall 2017 Xiomara’s fun, feminine looks were more sophisticated with garments that dressed her customer at her jointure of her day. In other words, Xiomara’s girl has grown into a full-fledged woman with a distinctive style.

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Images courtesy of Mao PR

At times there were too many ideas in certain pieces, but overall Katty Xiomara rendered a collection that was cohesive, consumer friendly and very accessible. And her polka-dot aesthetic was used in ways that polka dots have never been presented. There were polka dots combined with satin, organza, knits, and chiffon. And though polka dots are thought of as a spring/summer design choice, Xiomara made polka dots work for fall/winter. That is an accomplishment in itself.

Xiomara also employed some of the current trends from crush velvet to ruffles to shimmer and sparkle elements. And color palettes ranged from rust orange, rose pink, and ecru to deep ocean blue and tan.

Katty Xiomara should keep going in this direction. If so, there are more bright moments ahead!!

—William S. Gooch

Miguel Vieira Fall 2017

 Miguel_Vieira_Fall_20172Miguel Vieira does not invent the wheel with his fall 2017 collection. But what he does do is give consumers a more expanded way of looking at neutral, monochromatic garments for the urban dweller.

Miguel Vieira returned to New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) after his welcomed debut season last September. For fall 2017, Vieira made some interesting changes. One of the most notable changes was Vieira inclusion of models of color in his lineup this season. Models of color were notably absent in Vieira’s spring 2017 collection that was surprising in that Vieira regularly uses models of color in most of the brand’s campaign. Someone must have tipped Vieira that in an international fashion capital like New York City an all-white model lineup is a no-go.

Miguel_Vieira_Fall_20171That said; this fall 2017 collection demonstrated that Vieira has his fingers on the pulse of how the sophisticated urban city dweller likes to dress. Though Vieira’s menswear was a bit more consumer friendly and accessible than the women’s wear, there were many women’s separates in the collection that could be paired and mixed and matched with garments already in female consumers’ wardrobes.

Collages1173When it comes to the menswear garments, practically each garment was chic, very well constructed and classically relevant enough to appeal to a wide range of male consumers. And his employ of black jackets and slacks with white stripes—a design motif that popped up in different forms throughout the collection—added a fashion-forward touch to many of the men’s garments that induced youthful vibrancy and viability without trying too hard.

Collages1174For the women’s garments, Vieira played with marrying soft and hard elements. In some ensembles the jacket might be architectural while the skirts or slacks might employ a light fabrication and flow easily against the body. Though the women’s garments had less of an impact on the runway, most pieces were elegant, modern with a wide appeal demographically. And the lacy black garments at the end of the show were interesting twist on the modern city woman might choose to dress for a night out on the town.

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Images courtesy of Mao PR

Vieira demonstrated in this collection that the urban dweller, regardless of the gender, should be sophisticated, current and incredibly chic—with little nod to street wear vibe thrown in—without appearing severe, hard and unapproachable.

—William S. Gooch

Son Jung Wan Fall 2017

Son_Jung_Wan_Fall_2017Song Jung Wan’s collections have always been part costume and part fashion-forward projections. And that is a good thing when it comes to Wan’s fall 2017 collection, well; for the most part. As a always there are a lot of ideas in Wan’s fall 2017 collection, but unlike some previous collections, there were a lot of more wearable pieces in this collection.

The oversized silhouettes of the 1980s were used as inspiration for Son Jung Wan’s fall 2017 collection. (Think the glitter and glam of the “greed is good” era.) All this over-exaggeration is seen through Wan’s kaleidoscope of color, mixed textures and fabrications.

Collages1211Interestingly, Wan’s reference to glitz and glam of the 1980s melds beautifully with this season’s metallic trend and trend of spark and shine. Still, Wan does not begin and stop there, Wan supplements the glitz and glam trend with the velvet trend, oversized furs, fur embellishments, oversized coats with padded shoulders and flared skinny pants.

Collages1212The color palette this season ranged from lipstick red, punch pink to gold white, fawn beige to turquoise blue green, and sepia. While some of the bold, handcrafted knit details—which the brand is known for—didn’t mix well with some of the other fabrications in this collection, Wan this season, as opposed to other season—did deliver some garments that had actual retail value and would appeal to consumers beyond its core base.

Collages1213Still, similar to previous outings, Son Jung Wan continues to be plagued by too many ideas in this fall 2017 outing. If Wan could adapt a ‘less is more’ design aesthetic, his garments would have a much wider appeal. Then again, perhaps Wan is not looking for more market viability, content with the brand’s current audience.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection include dark blue velvet jumpsuit, burgundy silk dress with burgundy pants, men’s grey stripe jacket, beige and gold wool jumpsuit, and men’s lamb white fur coat with beige wool vest and white cold jacquard pants.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Hu Fall 2017

Vivienne_Hu_Fall_2017For fall 2017 Vivienne Hu finds exciting construction in a deconstructed society. This season at the Vivienne Hu’s New York Fashion Week: The Shows fall 2017 runway show gone are the fluff ball gowns and huge puffy dresses. This is a collection that is all about business.

Vivienne said of this fall 2017 collection “I want this collection to epitomize the strength, individuality and determination worn by a strong New Yorker as she rushes to meet her next challenge.”

The looks are easy on the eye and relatable to modern consumers which is a plus for salability with each piece a constructed look that is a combination of leather, wools and fur trim. All looks that denote strength, yet sophisticated with a core essence of modern beauty.

Collages1178The use of black and camel wools along with fur and leather was a mix of hard and soft. Hu also mixed a stripe multi-colored dress paired with a black and creme plaid fur collar and cuffed trimmed blazer.

Several models wore a black fox hood, even in the eveningwear portion of the collection. The showing of leather evening cropped tops with long skintight leather evening skirts had huge front-slits. Perhaps, Hu is creating a trend, a new evening look for 2017.

Collages1179The gowns were modern and bold revealing sufficient bare shoulders and legs, as well as combining black fox waist-length moto jackets, making the evening looks more youthful and contemporary. Narrow cut slim looking black and creme plaid high-cut jackets over silky cropped skinny pants was a plus for this fall 2017 collection.

Collages1180Favorites in this collection includ a red wool 3/4 length coat with fox fur hood with a downtown feel of cut out leggings, and a puffy leather coat with fur trim on the cuff and hemline. Additionally, other great pieces were Hu’s beautiful camel coat to her collection, a classic wrap coat with black color blocking, and a great slanted zipper coat worn over a multicolored dress.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Most of  Hu’s ensembles can be worn during the daytime at the office or in the evening for a night out. Some of the pieces were star attractions while others were just fill-ins. Still, overall this was a well-attended show with some great pieces and separates.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Custo Barcelona Fall 2017

Custo_Barcelona_Fall_2017For fall 2017 Custo Barcelona’s collection was an ode to individuality and “shining the light.” This collection was Custo Barcelona’s attempt to have color—something they are known for—nuanced through the variations of reflection and radiance of the fabrics.

Interestingly, referencing color that can morph based on reflection and different fabrications is almost an oxymoron for Custo. Custo Barcelona is known for its kaleidoscope of color, shimmer, and patchwork layering so using this sparkle and color reflection as a reference point is not a huge stretch for the brand. That said; many other fashion brands did incorporate sparkle and glitter elements this season, keeping Custo Barcelona on trend this season. Still, Custo Barcelona leads the pack when it comes to sparkle and shine, and the brand has been the purveyor of this design aesthetic since its inception.

Collages1125Custo Barcelona’s ‘Light Years’ collection is built around iridescent lame, fabrics with a metallic finish, laminated fabrics, textures embossed with metal glitter, nets of Lurex thread, and sparkles of colors of precious stones, delicately combined to create feminine and fashionable silhouettes. That is a lot to put into one pot; however, Custo pulls if off. And perhaps this collection has more innovation and is more representative of who the brand is compared to what industry professionals have seen in some previous outings, because this collection is a true reflection of creative director Dalmau Custo. Remember, no one does kaleidoscopes of color, mixing and matching and glitter elements better than Dalmau Custo.

 Collages1126

Collages1127Though there were many women’s looks that looked great on the runway and definitely reflected the design aesthetic this season, at times there was almost too much flash and flame with some garments taking on the look of Christmas ornamentation. The men’s looks fared better, perhaps because the men’s looks had more restraint and less layering.

Images courtesy of Nouveau PR

Images courtesy of Nouveau PR

Overall, if there is a statement to be made, particularly on a night out on the town, these are the clothes that will wow!! Can anyone say “Saturday Night Fever” 2017?

—William S. Gooch

Asaf Ganot Fall 2017

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_20171In the States, Asaf Ganot has distinguished himself for his menswear. When Asaf Ganot showed his spring 2016 menswear collection during New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Ganot presented a fresh, contemporary collection of sportswear looks that would have a wide appeal to American men; particularly, Ganot’s outwear.

For fall 2017 Ganot has not altered his brand’s design DNA of great outerwear. However, this season Ganot added some women’s look demonstrated that his brand is adept at dressing both men and women.

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_2017The collection was mostly a compendium on leather outerwear. And with Ganot’s penchant for great outerwear, it makes sense to expand his brand to women’s wear in that men’s and women’s outerwear, particularly leather jackets, there is not a huge difference in the silhouettes.

That said; there were some latticed tops that were solely in the ladies’ category. Additionally, there was a tuxedo-inspired leather jacket, denim-inspired jackets, as well as leather jackets that referenced safari travel. There was a jumpsuit, some leather crop tops, and a beautiful, oversized white dress shirt; however, this collection was still a tribute to the modern uses of leather as outerwear for both sexes.

Asaf_Ganot_Fall_20172When it comes to the leather outerwear for men, Ganot did not push the proverbial fashion envelope for far. In other words, there was a lot of now and very little next. Still, all the men’s wear looks were styled beautifully. And Ganot expansive use of distressed washes and treatments of leather outer was interesting to see.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

If Asaf Ganot gets his predilection for leather out of his system, so to speak, with his talent, it will be interesting to see him expand to other fabrications and styles. The potential is definitely there.

—William S. Gooch

 

Artistix Fall 2017

Artistix_Fall_2017Greg Polissesni’s original paintings, Harvest, and its autumn color palette inspired Artistix’s artistic director Andy Hilfiger. For those not aware, Andy Hilfiger is the sibling of Tommy Hilfiger and Andy, in his own right, has long had an association with rock music. In the past few years, Andy has taken his love of rock n’ roll and funneled that love into fashion collections that reflect his first love, rock n’ roll.

Andy Hilfiger has also paired these fashion collections with the art of Greg Polissesni who is a partner in Artistix. The autumnal color palette, which is so obvious in this fall 2017 collection, is combined with a military reference. From the chef coat to the flight suit, this harvest collection is  fashion-forward uniform wear. And these two design motifs work well together!!

Artistix_Fall_20171The fall colors of burnt orange, fall reds, military greens combined with some denim elements makes a color palette that denotes autumn is a very comfortable fit for consumers. Hilfiger does not reinvent the wheel with this collection; however, this collection is extremely consumer friendly if marketed correctly have a substantial consumer appeal. And the sweaters in this collection are fun and adorable.

Collages1203And by mixing in men’s looks with mostly women’s wear pieces, Hilfiger is track for creating a collection that is more in the vein of lifestyle brand—something that is esteemed sibling is recognized for. That said; interestingly, the fashion landscape is slightly devoid of brands that have an innovative twist on rock n’roll–inspired clothes at an affordable price. Artistix could fill that void.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in this fall 2017 collection is the Artistix flight suit, white Artistix blouse with asymmetrical military skirt, harvest color block chef’s coat, and harvest camo bomber.

—William S. Gooch

Slideshow image courtesy of fashionmaniac.com

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