Naeem Khan Bridal Fall 2020

Naeem Khan loves embellishments. If you consider his ready-to-wear collections, there is always lots of embellishments—a reflection of his cultural heritage and his decades now of designing eveningwear.

That said; with the pressure to always make every ready-to-wear collection more and more consumer friendly, lots of embellishment are not necessarily appealing to modern consumers, particularly those consumers that exist outside of a luxury market. These current ready-to-wear conditions makes the bridal market an excellent opportunity for Naeem Khan to show off his penchant for luxe embellishments.

This opportunity extends to Khan infusing his bridal collection with looks from his ready-to-wear, something that other bridal designers who had ready-to-wear collection used to do. This perspective carried over to Khan’s fall 2020 collection, a collection that was heavy on embellishments and looks that went way beyond traditional bridal looks.

Naeem Khan references the 1970s a lot in his ready-to-wear collections and fashion era pops up a lot in this bridal outing. In only makes sense that Khan would favor the late 70s in that Khan was assistant designer with Halston during that time. Khan’s late 70s reference is evidenced in his use of fringe, halter gowns and jumpsuits and his form-fitting bridal gowns.

Khan gives modern bride complete looks for the entire bridal celebration. There looks extend to the bridal reception, the bridal dinner the day before the wedding, and of course looks for the bridal ceremony. And what is also refreshing about this fall 2020 outing is Khan’s unique skill at elevating bridalwear beyond traditional bridal looks, something Naeem Khan has been implementing for some time.

Images courtesy of Naeem Khan

That said, in this fall 2020 collection Khan really upped the ante with his bridal trajectory. Instead of just a few garments that pushed the proverbial bridal envelope, there were several looks. Bravo Naeem!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Watters Bridal Fall 2020 and WToo Bridal Fall 2020

When it comes to Bridal Fashion Week, the bridal brand Watters is like a smorgasbord of bridal styles, silhouettes, and fabrications. In addition to their main line, the brand also offers up Wtoo and Willowby by Watters. While Watters has traditionally played bridal’s greatest hits from beautiful lace gowns to floral-embroidered gowns, what stands out most about Watters is the brand’s inclusive scope. Producing three different bridal collections for three different types of brides does facilitate more variety, but Watters is much more than the quantity of its bridal gowns, Watters connects to and implements what the modern is looking for at an affordable price.

This season’s mainline Watters collection was designed with both drama and comfort in mind, and nothing was too form-fitting. The opening look was a strapless A-line gown with a lace bodice and sheer skirt that gave both sex appeal and traditional glamour all at once. In ostentatious Watters style, it was paired with a giant feather hat, as a reminder that Watters isn’t always for the most traditional bride. While their designs are approachable, Watters promote individuality.

Wtoo by Watters had a very Southern Belle aesthetic. The opening dress, named “Dixie,” with details of a sleeveless V-neck with geometric and floral beading set the mood of the collection. The “Hardin” strapless modified sweetheart wedding dress with allover silver beading looked perfect for a young bride from Charleston, South Carolina about to marry her high school sweetheart. The Southern debutantes will know where to go for their dress if they are getting married next year.

Willowby by Watters had a youthful, ephemeral essence, but not without its classic touches. A tulle wedding dress with off-the-shoulder sleeves was on trend, featuring the expected lace appliqués. The collection was also accompanied by a sheer lace wedding dress, with a slip, long-sleeves, and a high-neckline for that bride looking for a mix between sexy and demure.

Photos courtesy of Watters

In their continued efforts toward diversity and inclusion, Watters also featured several plus-size models. The plus-size market is a $20 billion opportunity. Diversity continues to be the brand’s mother of invention.

Kristopher Fraser

 

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2020

If you are familiar with Ines Di Santo you are aware that her bridal runways shows are some of the most coveted shows of New York International Bridal Week. And there is a very good reason for that!!

Ines Di Santo does luxury bridalwear better than anyone. And her collections are seen through the less of a fashion-forward sensibility that always appealing to modern brides and the bridal industry. However, as a consumer you need some very deep pockets if you are in the market for an Ines Di Santo bridal garment.

For the fall 2020 bridal season, Ines Di Santo was inspired by the Impressionist Art movement. Di Santo to capture how the Impressionist painters the transformation of color and texture and how these artists through their work also demonstrated the shifting effect of light and the magic of airy transparency.

This fall 2020 bridal outing contained a huge variety of bridal silhouettes, styles, and fabrications. And there was something in this collection for every type of bride and bridal occasion. From the bridal reception to the day-before bridal dinner to the actual nuptial day, Ines di Santo left no stone unturned. And if you are a very hip, modern bride that is repelled by traditional bridal silhouettes like trumpet gowns, ballgowns, mermaid gowns or fit and flare, Di Santo strategically placed some embellished bridal cocktail dresses, and embellished corset leotard with detachable train and printed cocktail dresses and gowns.

That said; what stood most about this collection was Di Santo’s mastery of texture, fabrication matched with a modern, youthful sensibility. In this respect, Di Santo is unmatched in her mastery of these elements, not only evolving, but is also continuously expanding.

Still, Di Santo’s bridal masterpieces are for the well-heeled bridal market. It would be great if there was a diffusion line of these great fashion pieces of work that was accessible to consumers of lesser means. Everyone deserves a dose of Ines Di Santo.

Photos courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this fall 2020 bridal collection–and there were so many that is was hard to choose–include the brand’s illusion cowl neck sheath with beaded accent straps and low back embroidered lingerie bodice A-line gown textured hem, embroidered sleeveless mini with feathers and textured beading with detachable bow train and streamers, strapless sheath gown with asymmetrical couture bow with 3-dimesional hand-painted and feathered butterflies, and embellished sleeveless high neck mini with chandelier beading and 3D flowers.

William S. Gooch

 

 

Berta Bridal Fall 2020

Young American woman are conditioned to believe in their ‘happily ever,’ a.k.a. your wedding day. This is the occasion that will bring them very close to becoming a fairy princess. This fairy princess bride ideal comes into full-on displays of glamour, embezzlements, lace, and sequins during the wedding ceremony. For the bride walking down the aisle, too much is never enough.

Berta continues to fulfill their customers fairytale needs with their fall 2020 collection featuring an abundance of lace, gauze, and sparkle. With roots in Israel, Berta also caters heavily to that customer who want the grand ballgowns and embellishments. The brand also continues to build on the success of their best sellers, like their trumpet gowns, which are found in top American department stores, bridal boutiques, and notable vendors. Trumpet gown silhouettes continue to be a trademark of Berta’s wedding gowns, giving the bride that form-fitting shape at the top with an elegant flare at the bottom.

In the past, tulle embroidered sleeves had been trademarks of Berta’s collection, but this season designer Berta Balilti was encouraging brides to go sleeveless and show a lot more skin with halter-top silhouette bodices. Many modern brides today want to show more skin, taking a less conservative approach to the bridal gown.

Photos courtesy of CLD PR

In a bid to get a little edgier with their bridal offerings, Berta created a sequined minidress with a crystal neckline and straps.  Unfortunately, this sequined minidress looked out of place among Berta’s more classic offerings. The sequined minidress as a pre-bridal party or wedding-after dress could work, so from a business perspective the inclusion of this dress made sense.

For as much craftsmanship that goes into Berta’s gowns between the hand-stitched lace and embroidery to getting the silhouettes just right, there is a magical effortless to this fall 2020 collection.  And if all the effort and craftmanship makes the bride feel like a dreamy fairy princess, then all the work is worth it.  

  Kristopher Fraser

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2020

If you are familiar with Inbal Dror than you are aware that her bridal gowns are a compilation of fashion-forward sensibility, sexiness and sensuality, and a modern projection toward couture. Inbal Dror’s bridal collections are not necessarily for that modern bride who is looking for a traditional gown—although she might be able to find something that fits that ilk. Inbal Dror’s bridal collection are for that bride that is confident in her body and not afraid to push boundaries. This fall 2020 bridal collection is in that vein.

For fall 2020 Inbal Dror by the glow that a modern bride has on her wedding day. Inbal Dror expresses this glow in a halo—visible or invisible.  “… the bride glows on her wedding day with a halo, making her the center of a spiritual event. She is a symbol of devotion and tradition. Her dress reflects the eternal feelings she emanates and magical look—it is a fashion icon …,” explains Inbal Dror.

With a variety of halos adorning the heads of the bridal models, this bridal collection consisted mostly of very sheer dresses in a variety of fabrications. True to the brand’s DNA there was a lot of sexy and revealing bridal gowns from tea dresses to fit and flare to gowns with very high slits. Still, Inbal Dror continued her predilection for using lots of embellishments from silver, pearl and 3D appliques, mirror embroidery, and 3D floral accents.

If there was one departure in this outing, it was the transparency and sheerness of the bridal gowns. Perhaps, Inbal Dror adopted this projection because it stayed on the theme of bridal heavenly glow, allowing that glow to shine through the diaphanous garments. In that respect, this collection looked a lot like a bridal collection one would experience with a bridal brand like BERTA.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standouts in this collection includes the nude deep V point d’esprit gown with 3d floral shoulder accents, tulle one shoulder asymmetric cape over strapless mini with silver, pearl and 3D appliques, deep V tea-length drew with mirror embroidery and silver bows, long-sleeve ivory stretch chiffon gown with silver-beaded bodice, and nude tulle cape sleeve sheath with silver beading and thigh-high slit.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2020

Keeping a fashion brand relevant from season to season is a huge accomplishment, particularly when so many brands close shop just after a few years. But, having that fashion brand continue to evolve requires dedication, great skill, and a finger on the pulse of the consumer.

Anne Barge is one such bridal brand. The fall 2020 bridal season marks Anne Barge’s 20th bridal runway show; a huge accomplishment. And interesting instead of presenting a retrospective of some her most popular looks over the past 20 runway seasons, Barge held a runway show of her fall 2020 bridal collections, as well as presenting looks from previous collection on mannequins in a separate reception space.

Tradition is an essential component of Barge’s brand DNA. But, also is newness and fashion-forward sensibility. For fall 2020, traditional bridal looks, as always, was the core center of the collection; however, Barge added a dose of youthful vitality that helps elevate this collection from just another dissertation on traditional fit and flare bridal gowns and bridal ballgowns. Barge’s utilization of beaded halter bridal gowns and pearl-embellished jumpsuits proves that the brand is in touch with modern bride’s penchant for wanting something more than traditional wedding gowns.

Interestingly, these more modern bridal expressions did not take away from the brand’s signature look. Instead, this new direction, if you want to call it that, only enhances Barge’s trajectory. And the orchids and floral arrangements as headpieces added that extra special touch to this fall 2020 bridal outing.

Images courtesy of ODA PR

Standout looks in this outing were the brand’s strapless A-line gown of Mikado scuba accentuated with sequined floral appliques, jumpsuit with mock neck halter bodice of leaf-embroidered lace dripping in pearls with slim trousers of silk cotton, long sleeve columnar gown of stretch crepe accented with draped cowl at back, and draped bodice of floral embossed mattelase with full ballgown pick-up skirt.

—William S. Gooch

 

Rivini by Rita Vinieris and Alyne By Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2020

Rita Vinieris has always taken an interest in what a bride would want to wear aside from your run-of-the-mill white dress. In the past, the designer has created graffiti jumpsuits and dresses in color palettes of blush pink and baby blue. We live in non-traditional times, so it’s time to start designing for non-traditional brides.

Alyne by Rita Vinieris appeals to a much younger customer with the brand’s sheer dresses and low-cut necklines. It is the era of more fitted silhouettes for the younger bride—unlike the traditional bridal ballgowns of the 1980s—and like most things, even in the bridal industry, sex sells. More brands are also designing for two-piece wedding ensembles, and Alyne offers consumers embroidered sheer crop top with sheer embroidered wide leg pants featuring fringe. It was an outfit that would work for a bride’s after party dress, as it was easy, comfortable, and sporty.

Rivini by Rita Vinieris, the designer’s better-known line is designed for a more classic, mature bride. However, the dresses were not without their marvelous details. A keyhole accent on a white column gown produced a little bit of a more fashionable edge, and lace embroidered capes paired with lace and sequin-embroidered gowns made for a dramatic, regal effect.

Photos courtesy of CLD PR

Both collections were designed with a structural softness that resulted in elevated silhouettes that don’t appear too rigid. Vinieris is one of those gifted bridal designers who can find inspiration from both the new and traditional silhouettes and create two lines that exist simultaneously.

Both lines are on trend the fall 2020 bridal season with the shoulder-baring look differing from the usual off-the-shoulder look. Spaghetti straps and form-fitting corset bodices were signature parts of this collection. Vinieris keeps managing to reinvent the look of bridal luxury, and that’s what makes her collections great and accessible.

—Kristopher Fraser

THEIA Bridal Fall 2020

If you are looking for a bridal show that always has interesting bridal themes, then THEIA would be a great choice. THEIA’s Creative Director Don O’Neill consistently injects interesting and unique themes and references into each bridal collection. From opium dens to David Bowie to 70s disco to Irish water nymphs, O’Neill is never at a loss for coming up with varied points of view and unusual sources of inspiration.

With that is mind, THEIA as a bridal brand has also evolved. Keeping in mind that the US bridal market can be a bit conservative and traditional, though the brand continues to draw inspiration from unusual subject matter, Don O’Neill has learned, over the years, to not allow the inspiration to weigh down the collection. There is now an accessibility to the collection that was somewhat missing some years back.

This season O’Neill was inspired by Frida Kahlo, after visiting the Frida Kahlo exhibit at the Brooklyn Museum. Additionally, O’Neill found inspiration Julie Helen, a friend who courageously battles cerebral palsy. These two strong women form the core of the inspiration for the fall 2020 bridal collection.

Signature crepe dresses form the foundation of the collection, simple and clean silhouettes alongside gowns adorned with jeweled straps, lace appliques, and guipure trims, or a plunging neckline embroidered with pearls and micro-sequins. laser-cut floral petals are delicately embroidered on soft tulle that gently stretches and cradles the body, while volume and ruffles in parachute taffeta, silk organza and tulle swirl playfully around the body decorated with flowers, like those that Frida picked daily from her gardens at Casa Azul.

Photos courtesy of THEIA

Standout looks in this outing include the brand’s crepe apron neck gown with fuchsia silk organza scarf, hand-beaded crystal vest over satin trousers, crepe off-the-shoulder gown with draped bodice and soft ball skirt, cutaway shoulder Mikado ball gown with plunge neckline, and plunge-front silk organza tiered ball gown adorned with silk flower.

—William S. Gooch

Dennis Basso Spring 2020

Though Dennis Basso is known—particularly outside of the fashion industry—as a fur designer. But he is so much more than that. And with the push toward a free-free industry—California recently passed legislation that restricts manufacture and ownership of new animal fur products—Basso has rightly moved his brand beyond only creating animal-fur garments.

For spring 2020 Dennis Basso looked to classic beauties of the past and attempted to recreate their style as seen through the lens of modern sophistication. From the trendsetting style of Jayne Wrightsman and her bevy of svelte, swan-like friends to modern socialites of that ilk, Basso in this collection combined classic silhouettes of the 1950s and 60s—cinched in waist and bell-shaped frocks, as well as body-lengthening column sheaths—and re-interpreted these classic silhouettes into garments that a modern woman can relate. Additionally, Basso incorporated some sporty daywear, which is on-trend and seen as an element in many spring 2020 collections, in an effort to capture a more youthful consumer.

Basso has recently dressed some younger celebs, namely Bianca Andreescu, winner of the 2019 US Open, demonstrating that his brand can appeal to a younger consumer. However, Dennis Basso is still solidly a high-end fashion brand that has stronger attraction to the ladies who lunch ilk.

The color palette in this collection ranged from china blue and white, café crème to classic black and white. With fabrications ranging from trendsetting denim to cotton canvas, silk gazaar, jacquards and satins. There were some fur highlights evidenced in sheared mink, broadtail, and shearling. Basso also included a lot of embellishments in this collection from embellished flowers to beaded embroidery, feathers and three-dimensional flowers.

For the most part, Basso’s spring 2020 collection was a hit, but there were some misses. Namely, vintage looks that didn’t easily translate to the modern woman—particularly some of the garments that looked as though were taken directly from the pages of American Vogue of the 1970s.

Photos courtesy of gorunway.com/vogue.com

Standout looks in this collection include Basso’s café-paneled broadtail and nylon coat, paneled hazel suede jacket with paneled hazel suede midi skirt, striped mink and nylon jacket with floral hand-embroidered canvas cocktail dress, full-length white antique georgette maxi dress, and hand-embroidered white feather gown.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Badgley Mischka Spring 2020

Claudette Colbert is a name that many may not remember. She won the Academy Award for Best Actress in 1935 for “It Happened One Night,” and over her long career counted a Golden Globe win, along with Emmy and Tony nominations. She wasn’t one to be obsessed with the spotlight and buying a Hollywood mansion wasn’t her style, so instead she purchased Bellerive, an 18th-century home in Barbados where she would entertain the likes of Frank Sinatra, Princess Margaret, and New York socialite Babe Paley.

When the creative duo Mark Badgley and James Mischka, the duo behind Badgley Mischka, saw the photos of how these notable figures dressed while visiting Bellerive, Badgley Mischka found their inspiration for their spring 2020 collection. Tropical patterns of colorful florals and the bright colors of lilac and orange were reminiscent of a vacation to Barbados. If Barbados was the mother of inspiration, the island’s seas and palm trees were the children of inspiration with forest green and aqua helping to create a dazzling collection.

Although this collection was for spring 2020, it did look a bit like a resort collectionperhaps a few of these designs could have been used for resort 2020. That said; Badgley Mischka also took classic silhouettes and gave them a twist.

The opening look was a tailored suit fitted for the professional businesswoman. Rather than your traditional black or navy power suit, this suit was done in gorgeous lagoon blue with Hibiscus flowers. Perhaps, it is time businesswomen are allowed wear more print-patterned garments into the board room.

As usual though, the duo’s design strengths are made most evident in their evening wear. A one-shoulder column dress in vibrant red was the perfect fit for those Upper East Side charity gala attendees, many of whom were found in the audience and have been long-time Badgley Mischka customers. A lilac gown with embroidered shoulders and a thigh high slit was both sexy and sophisticated, proving that the designers can dress both the older New York City doyennes and sexy young starlets.

Photos courtesy of Filippo Fior/gorunway.com/vogue.com

Badgley Mischka has taken the Hollywood fashionista look and given it an island aesthetic that is perfect for the modern woman. Once you escape winter, slip into your most colorful evening gown.

Kristopher Fraser

Copyright © 2012-2019 | Fashion Reverie Publications, LLC - All Rights Reserved