Fashion Flashback: Jean Patou

Downloads394Fashion Reverie takes a look back at French couturier Jean Patou. French couturier Jean Patou is credited for invented knitted swimwear, the tennis skirts, and popularizing the cardigan.

Jean Patou

Jean Patou

Born in Normandy, France in 1880, Jean Patou moved to Paris in 1910 with the intent on becoming a couturier. Patou opened a small couture house in 1912, which was re-opened in 1919 after his service in World War I. In the mid -1920s Patou launched three perfume fragrances created by Henri Almeras. Patou’s perfume business saved his luxury clothing business after the Great Crash.

Jean_Patou_07Patou’s perfume fragrances are well-known today, with the perfume “Joy” being the most recognizable, and one of the most expensive. In 1972, the House of Patou launched “1000,” a heavy, earthy floral perfume, based on a rare osmanthus.

Collages204Since the death of Jean Patou in 1936, his couture house has been directed by a variety of well-known designers from Marc Bohan (1954-56) to Karl Lagerfeld (1960-63) to Jean Paul Gaultier (1971-73) to Christian Lacroix in 1981. After the departure of Lacroix the House of Patou discontinued it haute couture collections. In 2011, the Patou perfumes were acquired by Designer Parfums, LTD, a UK‒based company.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Jerry Hall

Downloads347Fashion Reverie looks back at the career of iconic supermodel Jerry Hall. One of the first supermodels, Jerry Hall at 6`0 helped usher in the era of the glamour supermodels of the 70s and the 80s. Hall helped lay the path for legendary supermodels Janice Dickinson, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Cindy Crawford.

Collages192At the age of 16 Jerry Hall moved to Paris with insurance money she received from a car accident. After forming a relationship with famed fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez, Hall’s modeling career took off. By 1977, she had appeared on forty magazine covers, including Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue Italia, and Cosmopolitan, and was earning up to a $1,000 a day. Though early in her career, Jerry Hall was the face of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium perfume and Revlon Cosmetics, around the same time Hall posed on the album sleeve of Roxy Music’s 1975 Sirens.

Image courtesy of rollingstone.com

Image courtesy of rollingstone.com

Jerry Hall’s relationship with rock legend Mick Jagger lasted for over 20 years and produced four children. Though Hall modeled through most of her tumultuous relationship with Jagger, her career in fashion took a backseat to raising her children and other creative projects.

 Jerry Hall has had small roles in Batman in 1989, Princess Caraboo in 1994, as well as MTV’s Kept in 2005. In 2000, Hall starred as Mrs. Robinson in a Broadway production of The Graduate, and in 2005, Hall played Mother Lord in the West End revival of Cole Porter’s High Society.

Images courtesy of H&M

Images courtesy of H&M

Jerry Hall appeared with daughter Georgia May in a holiday campaign for H&M in 2011.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Maud Frizon

Maud_frizon_08 Fashion Reverie looks back at fashion designer Maud Frizon. In the 1960s Maud Frizon started her career in fashion as a model for the Parisian haute couture houses of Jean Patou, Nina Ricci, and Andrés Courréges. Unhappy with the shoes that were provided for models at that time for runway shows and editorial shoots, Maud Frizon in 1969 began to design shoes and opened a boutique on the fashionable St. Germain des Pres district of Paris.

Downloads343Seen as a forerunner of Manolo Blahnik, Maud Frizon shoes were an immediate success. Frizon shoes were chic, sexy, showy, and at times, cutting-edge and unorthodox. A favorite shoe of Brigitte Bardot, Maud Frizon was one of the first designers to combine expensive leathers and exotic skins with non-traditional, less expensive fabrics.

Maud Frizon has designed shoes for the collections of Sonia Rykiel, Azzedine Alaia, and Claude Montana. At the height of their fame in the 80s, Frizon shoes were worn by Bardot, Catherine Deneuve, and Sophie Marceau.

Collages191Maud Frizon and her husband to Luigi De Marco sold the Frizon brand to Helene Wajnblum-Liu and her husband in 1999. The firm remains headquartered in Paris, with boutiques in Paris, Brussels, and Hong Kong.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Michelle Obama’s 2008 Inaugural Gown

michelle-obamaOn the second inauguration of President Barack H. Obama, Fashion Reverie looks back at the first lady, Michelle Obama’s gown from the 2008 inauguration.  Designed by Jason Wu, the first lady’s inaugural gown in 2008 was a white, one-shoulder silk chiffon gown embellished with Swarovski crystals.

When Taiwan-born Jason Wu received the nod to design Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown, Wu detailed in the Huffington Post, “In terms of design, my only instruction was that the dress needed to sparkle, which I hope it did. It had about a million Swarovski crystals on it! I know it sounds corny, but I had this vision of the dress immediately. I knew it had to be white. I wanted it to be romantic, strong, energetic—everything Michelle Obama stands for.”

Michelle_Obama_Vogue_cover

Since the 2008 election, Michelle Obama has been named one of the “10 Best Dressed People” by Vanity Fair, has appeared in on the cover and in a spread for the 2009 issue of American Vogue. And is often seen wearing garments by such illustrious designers as Calvin Klein, Isabel Toledo, Byron Lars, Narcisco Rodriquez, Tracey Reese, Maria Pinto, and many others.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Edith Head

Edith_Head_03 On the eve of award season, Fashion Flashback looks back at the iconic Hollywood costumer, Edith Head. In a career that lasted six decades, Edith Head was nominated for 35 Academy Awards and won eight times—more times than any other woman—with her last win for her work on The Sting.

After obtaining degrees in romance languages from the University of California, Berkeley and Stanford, Edith Head was hired as a costume sketch artist at Paramount Pictures. Head distinguished herself from other Hollywood costumers of her day by designing the famous “sarong dress” for Dorothy Lamour in The Hurricane, designing Ginger Rogers’ mink-lined gown in Lady in the Dark, and designing Audrey Hepburn’s costumes in Roman Holiday.

Collages124Edith Head designed costumes for many leading ladies of Hollywood’s golden age which included Audrey Hepburn, Ginger Rogers, Katherine Hepburn, Natalie Wood, Bette Davis, Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlene Dietrich, Mae West, Olivia De Havilland, Kim Novak, Rita Hayworth, Shirley MacLaine, Dorothy Lamour, and Anne Baxter.

Sweet Charity, Roman Holiday, and Vertigo

Sweet Charity, Roman Holiday, and Vertigo

In 1967,  Head left Paramount Pictures for Universal Pictures where she remained until her death in 1981. The last pictures she worked on was the black-and-white comedy Men Don’t Wear Plaid starring Steve Martin and Carl Reiner.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Antonio Lopez

Fashion Reverie looks back at fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez. In the pantheon of fashion illustrators, Antonio Lopez was one of the most prolific and illustrious fashion illustrators of the 20th Century. With illustrations that appeared in most of the fashion glossy bibles of the 1960s, 70s and 80s, including the New York Times, as well as ad campaigns for Missoni and Valentino, Lopez helped mentor the early careers of industry icons Jerry Hall, Pat Cleveland, Tina Chow, and Grace Jones.

“Antonio’s girls came on the scene like a new generation in fashion, like something out of West Side Story,” detailed Pat Cleveland to the nytimes.com. “We were a flock of parakeets dressed in bright colors. We didn’t know what we were going to be, but we were going to take our energy and fun and bring it to boring old fashion and society.”

Image courtesy of nytimes.com

A native of Utuado, Puerto Rico, at the age of seven Lopez moved with his family to NYC. While attending Fashion Institute of Technology. Lopez interned at Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) which led to a position at WWD and later the New York Times. In 1969, Lopez moved to Paris and become closely associated with Karl Lagerfeld while Lagerfeld was designing for Chloe.

With his business and life partner Juan Ramos, Lopez helped usher in a more liberated, inclusive and egalitarian era of fashion that begin to break barriers of race and class. This burgeoning movement also incorporated street fashion which quickly began to the influence the growing ready-to-wear market.

Marc Jacobs’ 2007 “Arabian Nights” event was inspired by Lopez’s 1985 book Antonio’s Tales from One Thousand and Nights. A book on the career of Antonio Lopez, Antonio Lopez: Fashion, Art, Sex, & Disco, by Roger Padilha and Mauricio Padilha (with a foreword by Andre Leon Talley and an epilogue by Anna Sui), was published by Rizzoli in September 2012.

“Antonio used to say, ‘Don’t waste a minute of your life dreaming of what you want to be,’ ” said Pat Cleveland to the nytimes.com. “ ‘Just be it.’ ”

Antonio Lopez died from AIDS‒related complications in 1987.

—Staff

 

Fashion Flashback: Princess Irene Galitzine

Fashion Reverie looks back at Russian-Georgian born designer Princess Irene Galitzine. Known for creating the “palazzo pajama,” Princess Irene Galitzine was born into an aristocratic family. Forced to leave Russia after the 1917 Russian Revolution, the Galitzine émigrés took up residence in Italy, with Irene Galitzine later studied art in Rome and languages at the Sorbonne and Cambridge.

After a 3-year stint designing for the Fontana Sisters, in 1946 Princess Galitzine opened her own salon and showed her first collection. In 1960, Galitzine introduced the palazzo pajama, which were aptly named by Diana Vreeland.  These evening slacks in gauzy fabrics quickly became a staple of every fashionable woman’s wardrobe. “I was one of Emilio Pucci’s best customers, but I got tired of seeing the same clothes I was wearing on other people, so I began making my own things,” [Princess Galitzine] once said. “I put them in my first collection, and everybody went wild.”

Princess Galitzine designs have been worn by Sophia Loren, Elizabeth Taylor, Marie-Helene de Rothschild, Jacqueline Onassis, Lee Radziwill, Greta Garbo, Duchess of Windsor, Audrey Hepburn Hepburn, Claudia Cardinale, and many others.  Claudia Cardinale wore Galitzine’s famous palazzo pajamas in the original version of The Pink Panther (1963). Princess Galitzine also appeared in the cult classic Mahogany as herself.

Princess Irene Galitzine, at the age of 90, died at her home in Rome in 2006.

—Staff

Princess Irene Galitzine

Fashion Flashback: MTV’s House of Style

Fashion Reverie looks back at MTV’s House of Style. MTV premiered House of Style on January 1, 1989, as a response to America’s growing fascination with the lives of supermodels. House of Style focused on fashion, the modeling industry, supermodels’ lifestyle, and such controversial issues at the time as eating disorders.

Various hosts of MTV’s “House of Style”

Originally hosted by a slew of supermodels, Cindy Crawford, Amber Valletta, Shalom Harlow, Rebecca Romijn, and Molly Sims, House of Style also included hosts from music, entertainment and pop culture. Supermodel Cindy Crawford hosted House of Style for six seasons with the show being canceled in 2000.

Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss images courtesy of W Magazine

House of Style returned to MTV on October 6, 2012 with Joan Smalls and Karlie Kloss as the hosts.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Dorian Leigh

Fashion Reverie looks back at one of the first supermodels, Dorian Leigh. An alluring beauty, Dorian Leigh Parker stood only 5`5 and was 27 years of age when she started her career as a model in 1944. By 1946 she had seven Vogue covers to her credit, and over the next six years Leigh had added an additional 50 magazine covers to her impressive resume.

The legendary Diana Vreeland, then at Harper’s Bazaar, helped launch Dorian Leigh’s career by having her pose for the cover of Harper’s Bazaar early in her career. At her peak, Leigh earned over $300,000 a year, an extremely large sum of money for a model in the 1940s and 50s.

Dorian Leigh’s iconic Revlon “Fire and Ice” campaign nail polish and lipstick campaign, photographed by Richard Avedon has become a Madison Avenue legend. “Dorian was truly the best model of our time,” related Eileen Ford to the Roanoke Times in 1997. “She instinctively knew what every photographer wanted, and she came alive just at the moment the shutter clicked.”

Primarily a print model—during the 1940s and 50s runway modeling paid a lot less and was considered work beneath print and advertising campaigns—Dorian Leigh was photographed by some of the most influential photographers of the day including Irving Penn, Cecil Beaton, Richard Avedon, John Rawlings, and Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Some of her famous advertising campaigns included “Cherries in the Snow,” “Fashion Plate,” ”Ultraviolet,” and “Sheer Dynamite.”

A friend of Truman Capote, Dorian Leigh was the inspiration for Holly Golightly, the protagonist in Capote’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s. And like the Holly Golightly character, Leigh was sexually liberated, evidenced through her five marriages and many romances.

Dorian Leigh died in a Falls River, Virginia nursing home in 2008 at the age of 91.

—Staff

Fashion Flashback: Norma Kamali’s Parachute Collection

Image courtesy of Mark Seliger

Fashion Reverie looks back at Norma Kamali’s iconic parachute collection. Since the late 1960s Norma Kamali has pushed the proverbial fashion envelope, using such non-traditional fabrics as mud cloth, chenille bed spreads and tablecloth as the material for her cutting-edge collections.

In the mid-70s, Kamali explored the concept of garments made with parachute fabric.  “In the early 70s, Victor Hugo, assistant to Halston’s creative director, gave me a wonderful gift of an all-silk parachute,” Norma explains. “It was a vintage parachute from the Korean War … I promised I would make him a jumpsuit from the parachute and I did, but I also made skirts, jackets, gowns, big bags, pants, swimsuits, tops, and just about anything you can think of.”

Norma Kamail spring 2012

Over the past three decades, garments with a parachute aesthetic and made out of parachute fabric have become one of Norma Kamala’s biggest selling items. And for spring 2012, Kamali re-introduced her parachute aesthetic in a limited edition cult collection featuring frothy frocks, fishtail dresses and camisoles.

—Staff

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