Rock It or Leave It: Summer 2019

After a year’s hiatus, Rock it or Leave it is back! Fashion Reverie observed some of the trends we’ve seen on the red carpet over the summer. What can you incorporate into your own wardrobe and what is better left on pages of Vogue? Let’s find out.

Images courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com, popsugar.com, and fashionista.com, respectively

Silver

Silver has been all over the red carpet and you can wear it, too! Just make sure you have a cool skin tone. Silver usually works best with tanned skin or darker skin tones.

 Look better in gold? No rule that says you can’t rock that! When wearing metallics try to keep accessories simple and makeup minimal. but don’t be afraid to add a splash of color. Two quick things to keep in mind. If you are wearing silver to an event where you’ll be photographed, your outfit may reflect camera flashes and make sure you chose fabric that can breathe in warm summer weather. 

Rock it!

Images courtesy of harpersbazaar.com, tomandlorenzo.com, and gofugyourself.com, respectively

Black and White Stripes

It seems like every summer Fashion Reverie observes a red-carpet trend that just has us shaking our heads.  These thick black and white stripes are making the stars look like goofy tributes to “Beetlejuice.” Catherine O’Hara you starred in the classic film, so you get a pass.   Did the celebrity stylists go on vacation leaving their less than competent assistants in charge? Stripes can be very flattering, but these black and white stripes this summer just looks awkward and sloppy.

Leave it!

Images courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com and usweekly.com

Puffy Sleeves

Didn’t this trend get put to bed decades ago when Jerry Seinfeld took it down? Not only do puffy sleeves create awkward silhouettes and look desperately trendy—okay. okay Celine Dion is CRUSHING it—but adopting this trend means your selfies will look very dated and you risk looking like a pirate. (Aside to Nicole Kidman; your stylist needs to be fired. Anyone who sends you out in that wrinkled puckered dress in such a harsh color, paired with red sandals, needs a new line of work.)

Leave it!

Images courtesy of tomandlorenzo.com and glamour.com

Oversized Masculine Suits

In the 1940’s when World War II cut off fashion editors’ travel to Europe, New York Fashion Week—originally called Press Week—came into existence. With limited access to fabric, many designers reworked their unpurchased men’s suits into outfits for women, putting shoulder pads in to ensure they fit properly. Now on the red-carpet oversized men’s suits are being translated into a chic sexy trend by the stars. The key to wearing an oversized suit is proper fit. Simply wearing a suit two sizes too large will leave you drowning in fabric. Adding fun jewelry and killer heels can take this from a day to evening look in a snap.

Rock it!

—Cameron Grey

Missoni’s Fall 2019 Campaign

Last fall the star of Missoni’s fall 2018 campaign was Gigi Hadid. This upcoming season—fall 2019—it’s her sister Bella Hadid.

Missoni creative director Angela Missoni again uses the creative genius of Mert & Marcus to photograph the fall 2019 campaign against the backdrop of the surreal volcanic landscape of spired rock formations known as the fairy chimneys found in the exotic locale of semi-arid Cappodocia, Turkey, as was used in the fall 2018 campaign. Angela Mission has used the talents of Mert & Marcus for the brand’s campaigns since 2001.

As detailed in the brand’s press release for the fall 2019 campaign, this arid and beguiling moonscape becomes the stage upon which an exhibition unfolds of long, form-fitting dresses in black-and-white or colorful graphic motifs, vertical bands, geometric forms, and sophisticated monochromatic hues. And Angela Missoni uses supermodels Bella Hadid and Adut Akech, as well as Alton Mason and Dong Su Moon as galactic magical creatures or supernatural shades juxtaposed against this rough, craggy terrain.

Are these intergalactic beings on a secret mission or are they just reveling in the luxurious kaleidoscopic Missoni patterns that speak of glories past and futuristic triumphs? Who knows? The answer to this mystery is less important than the beauty of patterns and layering.

Images courtesy of C&M Media

Mert & Marcus expertly manipulate these cyborgs of style, simultaneously rendering them magical and seductive. As we are in an era that celebrates vintage style, the autumnal hues of this fall 2019 collection will have wide appeal to not only Missoni’s diehard fans, but to brand’s widening base of consumers.

William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Tea with Kristopher: Month of July 2019

 

The Fourth of July signifies rising temperatures on the East Coast. And true to form, a few weeks later New York City was hit with a devastating heatwave with sporadic blackouts to boot. Hopefully, you had some nice cold iced tea. If not, Fashion Reverie is here to quench your thirst, and we are serving you extra sweet, Georgia tea, grandmother style.

A prominent lifestyle publication in New York City may be on the skids. The publication, which is known for not even paying their contributors, appears poised to go out of business soon. It’s a tough time for fashion publishing.

Vendors are pulling out of New York’s trade shows. With physical stores closing and everyone making a shift to e-commerce, trade shows are having a tough time keeping up with the times. What were once rows of brands have turned into seating for attendees at the trade shows. It’s a crying shame!!

The Fashion Calendar for the spring 2020 New York shows has been released and it is looking SPARSE. While many are complaining about how light it is, some are saying this is a smart way to bring international editors back. Even top designers, like Vera Wang, have returned to the calendar.

Tiffany & Co. is in a heated legal battle with Costco over the latter selling diamonds they claimed to be associated with the world-renowned jewelry brand. Tiffany & Co. did not take kindly to this misleading marketing ploy and is now suing Costco for what is in layman’s terms, false advertising.

Kristopher Fraser

Great Summer 2019 Reads

The lazy, hazy days of summer is a great time to get in some good reading. Fashion Reverie has curated a list of great summer reads from fashion books to gossip tomes to life evaluation books. Curl in the cool A/C with a refreshing drink or lull time away on the beach with these great reads.

Remember, a mind is a terrible thing to waste. Keep those brain cells active with these summer 2019 selects!!

Kenzo Book    

Kenzō Takada, the Japanese French fashion designer and the founder of Kenzo, a worldwide brand of perfumes, skincare products and clothes, has been a force in fashion for over four decades. He is currently the acting Honorary President of the Asian Couture Federation. This extraordinary collection complied by Kazuko Masui features an exclusive look-book of hand-colored sketches and personal photographs from the archives of the designer.  You’ll get lost in this breathtakingly beautiful book.

Nine Perfect Strangers by Liane Moriarty

When Big Little Lies exploded two years ago, people were eager to snap up more books from author Liane Mortiaty. She does not disappoint with this dishy tale of women who meet at exclusive spa.  Nine participants have astonishingly similar positive reactions to their regimen at Tranquillum House … at least until they discover why. This soapy tale is a real page turner and the perfect beach read.

The Asylum: A collage of couture reminiscences … and hysteria by Simon Doonan

It’s time for Fashion Reverie to tell you a little secret; the people who work in the fashion industry are CRAZY! Simon Doonan has witnessed this first-hand and is ready to spill the tea on wacky designers, unhinged models, and unflappable editors in all their glamorous madness.

With his dry wit and love of eccentricity. Doonan’s personal and professional tales of deranged fabulousness with have you laughing out loud. You’ll be ticked by Doonan’s creative brain, elephant like memory, and almost encyclopedic knowledge of fashion and merchandising.

I’ll drink to that by Betty Halbreich

When the film “Scatter My Ashes at Bergdorf’s” was released, the world fell in love with Betty Halbreich and demanded more!  A personal shopper and legend, she is known for her keen eye and sugar-free advice, trusted by everyone from top Hollywood stylists to discriminating New York socialites to tell them what truly looks good. Lena Dunham, the Emmy-winning writer of HBO’s “GIRLS” is developing a series inspired by her life. Don’t wait, learn about her fascinating life now!

The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris by Alicia Drake

In 1970’s Paris, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent smashed into each other like two champagne bottles in an explosion of sequins, celebrity, money and naked ambition. Together they split Paris in two and created fashion history setting the stage for the modern clothing industry. Their bitter rivalry is recorded in this story of magical enchantment and wretched excess that you won’t be able to put down.

The Andy Cohen Diaries: A Deep Look at a Shallow Year by Andy Cohen

Mega producer Andy Cohen has built an empire and is ready to spill the tea. It’s time for some hot gossip about the Housewives! And Madonna! There are so many crazy tales this fun book reads like an issue of US magazine. You’ll feel like a fly on the wall to Andy Cohen’s wild life. And what a crazy ride it is! You’ll find out how and why Cohen came to possess a bottle of perfume made from Lady Gaga’s urine.

All images courtesy of amazon.com

The Bucolic Plague: How Two Manhattanites Became Gentlemen Farmers: An Unconventional Memoir by Josh Kilmer-Purcell

Do you every want to chuck your city life and buy a farm in Upstate New York? You will reconsider that dream after you read Josh Kilmer Purcell’s tale of doing just that with then boyfriend now husband Dr. Brent Ridge (Formerly Dr Brent of the Martha Stewart show). After a wrong turn on an apple picking trip, two diehard Manhattan dwellers, purchase a farm in a town of 400 people. Dealing with the painful lows and dizzying highs of these dramatic changes the question looms; will anyone make it out alive?  If you are a fan of their brand Beekman 1802 lifestyle, you’ll love hearing the hilarious tale of how it all began.

—Cameron Rose

Fashion Tea with Kristopher: Month of June 2019

Image courtesy of teatimepartyservice.com

If you live in New York City or the East Coast, you are probably feeling the hot, humid temperatures. That said; Fashion Reverie is prepared to serve you iced tea for the rest of the summer season, sweetened of course. Get your nice, tall summer glass of tea ready as Fashion Reverie keeps you refreshed and in the know.

The sale of W magazine is not looking too promising as the editorial staff is expressing dissatisfaction with the owner of Surface Media, who was in talks to acquire the magazine. Surface Media is known for a high staff turnover, and if W editor-in-chief Stefano Tonchi isn’t willing to follow the magazine wherever it goes things won’t be looking good. Tonchi is key to W retaining its top advertisers and contributors.

One of America’s most beloved LGBT publications is in distress. Out magazine is facing controversies over unpaid freelancers, and their editor-in-chief Phillip Picardi has threatened to quit.  Out magazine is expecting an injection of capital to handle these things, but if that falls through, Out could be out; no pun intended.

Image courtesy of pinterest.com

NYFW: Men’s (NYFWM) has become old, tired, and dusty. But with plans to move NYFWM to The Shed at Hudson Yards, this could change. Tongues are wagging that once the CFDA manages to lock in The Shed as the main venue for fashion week, they may want to hit the reboot button on NYFWM, giving it a second life.

A top model management company in New York might have some new job opportunities. Many of this agency’s bookers have moves to another top agency, and some models have jumped ship with them. This model management company better find some new booker talent and fast before their client base dries up.

 

Kristopher Fraser

Should NYFW: Men’s Be Aligned with New York Fashion Week: The Shows?

Image courtesy of fashionista.com

Men’s Fashion Month spring 2020 season is about to end, and while London, Milan, and Paris saw their celebrated slate of shows, New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 season was lackluster collection of mostly emerging designers. As the NYFWM’s calendar gets slimmer and slimmer, many in the industry are asking if there is still a need, more importantly, a desire for NYFWM, and if NYFWM should be aligned with New York Fashion Week: The Shows [NYFWS]. This recent NYFWM season was moved by the CFDA to align with the women’s resort calendar in attempt to add more credibility. Didn’t work!! It appears that NYFWM is fallen off the fashion radar.

When NYFW: Men’s began it didn’t have the gravitas of some of the more distinguished international men’s Fashion Week’s—Milan, Paris, and even London. Still, NYFWM’s was a great way for independent and emerging designers to showcase their collection, and there was a small bevy of headlining menswear brands—John Varvatos, Todd Snyder, Tommy Hilfiger, Nautica, and Polo Ralph Lauren that added a level of prestige to the event.

Todd Synder fall 2018

This past NYFWM saw less than 20 shows, most of which were presentations featured at the annual New York Men’s Day. There was virtually no presence of international editors or buyers, and compared to past seasons, there was very little press coverage aside from WWD. Most of the mainstream American menswear brands have jumped ship, so to speak, leaving just a few unimpressive brands, mainly of whom, over a short period, fade into oblivion.

Fashion writer Alex Blynn believes that NYFW: Men’s is no longer necessary because, “gender in clothing is really going out of style and having a [Fashion Week] that’s specifically [men’s fashion] seems behind the times in some ways.”  Blynn added, “I think we’re all brave enough now in 2019 to have our fashion fully integrated, and to stop compartmentalizing everyone all the time …”

Image courtesy of nystyleguide.com

Blynn pointed to the growing popularity of genderless brands, like Palomo Spain, who use mostly cisgender male models, but have many pieces that could be easily categorized in the traditional womenswear category. Blynn isn’t for completely ending NYFW: Men’s though, contending, “I think it still has a place for a core audience and consumers and is still an important event that shows incredibly talent and artistry.” However, like many, he isn’t so hopeful for its future.  

Vincent Lane, editor-in-chief of The Garnette Report, believes that NYFW: Men’s should “Just be combined with women’s because it hardly gets any recognition or press, they have very few limited days, and in addition they don’t put too much effort into the shows. People mostly fly out for [the women’s shows]. Menswear would be helped by mixing it with [the women’s shows].”

There are some fashion industry professionals on the opposite side of the coin who see NYFWM’s as a necessity for emerging menswear designers and that it should be a standalone as a fashion week. Style consultant Zoey Cross says, “We still need [NYFWM]. The interest has built around men’s fashion and the many different lanes of men’s fashion. [NYFWS] alone doesn’t give that opportunity for men’s designer. Menswear designers need an opportunity to show off their talents standalone and truly be appreciated.”

Custom wear designer and stylist Jevin Kinard also believes that NYFW: Men’s is still necessary but, “It needs more sponsorship and presence.” “If it continues under the lack luster disorganized course it’s on, I would say just end it overall.”

When NYFWM’s began it had a slate of impressive sponsors including Amazon and Cadillac, in addition to a main venue at Skylight Clarkson Square. Once it lost Amazon as a sponsor, as well as the main venue of Skylight Clarkson Square, it was all downhill from there.

Image courtesy of hypebeast.com

NYFWM’s is not without an audience. and for emerging US designers looking for a boost for their brands, it is a good place to present collections. Still, with NYFWS recently reducing its calendar to five days and five nights, as proposed by CFDA’s incoming chairman Tom Ford, incorporating NYFWM into NYFWS might not be a bad idea.  That is the way it was for several decades.

The future of NYFWM hangs in the balance as fashion continues to change. But as the late, great Diana Vreeland famously imbibed, “fashion is both now and next.” What’s next for NYFWM? Time will tell.

—Kristopher Fraser

Rafi Anteby Turns Tragedy into a Fashion Legacy

Photo courtesy of hauteliving.com

Rapper Nipsey Hussle, murdered in a barrage of bullets on a Los Angeles street in March of this year, will be posthumously awarded the 2019 “BET Awards” Humanitarian Award. ” As a prolific artist and leader, Nipsey Hussle was zealous about driving change for the betterment of his community, empowering and employing those in need and being an influential and highly respected leader,” said Connie Orlando, Executive Vice-President, head of programming at BET. 

The awards show which airs this Sunday will include a star-studded tribute to Hussle known lovingly as “Neighborhood Nip” featuring DJ Khaled, YG, and John Legend.  But there will be a silent sparkling tribute in the audience by A-List celebrities, sporting bullets emblazoned with peace signs, prayers and symbols of strength, with some studded with Swarovski crystals. The necklaces, created by Jewelry Designer Rafi Anteby, are a plea to raise awareness of gun violence in the African American community.

Photos courtesy of the Anderson Group

“A bullet does not only impact one person,” says Anteby, who lost his best friend to a bullet 12 years ago. “It has a ripple effect, and many, many others whole lives are affected.” Rafael Anteby, affectionately known as “Rafi,” created ” the jewelry line called “Bullets4Peace” aimed at creating a crusade for change. When he brought Bullets4Peace to BET, he was targeting the African American community, as a crucial arena in his personal war against gun violence. “BET supported my brand. They supported my mission. They understood it very deeply.”

More than 85 percent of black homicide victims are shot and killed with guns, according to recent statistics gathered by Violence Policy Center (VPC). “The devastating and disproportionate impact homicide, almost always involving a gun, has on black men, boys, women, and girls in America is a national shame,” states Executive Director Josh Sugarmann. “These deaths devastate families, traumatize communities, and should provoke an outcry for change.”

Photo courtesy of hautelving.com

Rafi agrees.  His work to help end this crisis has been through creating a unique celebrity gifting lounge experience to build an army of front-line entertainers, from Beyoncé to Justin Bieber, to win a victory of increasing awareness. “I understood the entertainment world is the megaphone,” Rafi says. In his celebrity gift lounges, Rafi finds his best recruits. A celebrity can walk out of a gift lounge with more than $50,000 in products and gift certificates. 

Rafi’s vision for change is embodied on a bullet engraved with “Army for Peace” with a bald eagle, with wide-spread wings.  His foot soldiers for Bullets4Peace include Rihanna, who is an avid collector of the jewelry line, Eva Longoria, Jamie Fox, Justin Timberlake and Drake, Bruno Mars, and others.

Photos courtesy of the Anderson Group

“The African American community,” Rafi says, “are major trendsetters in the world of fashion.  But many people don’t want to see that! I brought Bullets4Peace to BET and by understanding exactly what I was talking about, they created that fashion movement that I have today,” he says.

Over the past decade Rafi has created 13 collections with a stunning array of bullet-centered jewelry, working with gold and silver plating, rose gold, sterling silver, gold and Swarovski crystals. His creations reflect his multi-faceted personality and wide range of life experiences. Rafi is a three-time martial arts champion, so strength is a key quality which he crafts into his jewelry using intricately designed lions, panthers, dragons and other animal images.

Photo courtesy of the Anderson Group

His experience as a monk in China, inspired him to incorporate spiritual tools for meditation into his jewelry line using the OM sign, mandalas, Hebrew prayers and other sacred symbols. Learning the power of semiprecious stones for healing in China, he created a line of jewelry featuring amethyst, jade, tiger’s eye and moonstone. The beautiful delicacy of his pieces combines a plea for peace with the necessity for balance and beauty in life. His spiritual training enables him to imbue each creation with vitality and energy, that he hopes will have a positive effect on the consciousness of whoever wears them.

Born and growing up in war-torn Israel, Rafi witnessed firsthand the devastation that bullets and bombs cause to families and communities. As a solider, he was shot several times, without major medical consequences. But it was the death of his childhood friend 12 years ago, that really impacted his life and started his anti-gun violence campaign. “It had a bigger effect on me than even the death of my father,” he says.  “You expect your father to diebut not your friend.”

Going back into the monastery to pray, contemplate and meditate about his life was a process of serious self-reflection. ” It made me rethink everything,” he says, “what I am and what I really believe in! I had to see where my next 60 years were going to be spent. I thought ‘I’ve got to make a statement!'”

Photo courtesy of fashiontribe.com

Since he was an artist, images were his major method of communication. “I sketched a bullet with a peace sign on it,”. I called my mother and asked her what she thought of it. I didn’t even know if it could be done.  But my mother said “Yes! And you should call your jewelry Bullets4Peace.  My mother sealed the deal for me!”

Rafi says “every bullet has more than one life span. The bullet gets shot, its casing falls to the floor, it is then collected by the manufacturers and reused, saving the manufacturers money, a process we call – reloading.” Bullets 4 Peace collects those used bullet casings from around the world,” Rafi explains “before they become a fully functioning bullet again, giving them a new purpose. That breaks the cycle.” Excited about his new artistic vison he walked around with sketches.  “But the more I showed people my drawings, the more I got negative reactions. That’s when I said, ‘you’re on the right track!'”

He made two of each design he had imagined and carried them around in a suitcase showing people. “A lot of people got really, really excited.” He went on TV shows getting positive responses.  “Typically, they would say, ‘I would love to have one.'”  Bullets4Peace hit the mainstream when T-Pain wore his bullet necklace in Jamie Fox’s “Blame It on the Alcohol” video in 2009.  “Jamie Fox loved it and wanted one too,” says Rafi. “They invited me again for the video “Digital Girl”then it became like a wildfire.”

Photo courtesy of the Anderson Group

He decided he wanted to integrate the philanthropic world, fashion vision to include his spiritual knowledge garnered from his studies of martial arts. His inner experiences as a monk inspired him to give gifts that would contribute to the inner development of the celebrities, who could help broadcast the message of Bullets4Peace.

His extensive travels to study art in Nepal and Tibet, his experiences as a monk, plus his trips to remote locations to do wildlife photography, reflect his inner journey that he wanted to introduce to celebrities. “This is my world, which is different from other people’s world, so I wanted to bring them what I really believe in. The celebrities got really drawn into my lifestyle.  It is the lifestyle that everybody really wants but cannot get.”

 “Traveling to remote places, to connect them to nature and connect them to the simplicity of life,” Rafi says he thought could “bring them inner joy.”  Traveling to destinations deep in nature like Hawaii, Costa Rica, and Nepal, he says, provides celebrities with “a holiday they will never forget. It raises the self-consciousness to a level that was higher than before.  They will have a life-changing experience. “I always want to give them something they can give back.

Rafi’s three-pronged philosophy of compassionate communication, love of nature and charitable giving is the core of who he is. “I am doing this in every aspect of my life, in every aspect of my businesses.  When I travel, I try to show people that you first ask what you can give.  Then you receive much more, than if you just think ‘what can I get from these people. There is a need, Rafi says, for more celebrities like Nipsey Hussle, who was not only community philanthropist, but a role model. “In every community there are people who try to make a difference.  But there are some people who really don’t care. They only think about the music and the bottom dollar. They don’t care about what message they put out there. But I’m trying to align with those who really care about the message in the music. Beyoncé cares. Rihanna cares. Jamie Fox cares. Those are the people I’m trying to align with.”

“I’ve become very aggressive in business. It is easy for me to create business. ” The main takeaway for me is to get all the megaphonesall the celebritiesthat are have loud voice and to funnel them all in my charity and get the awareness out there, so that people will listen to it.” To that end Rafi established Tao Social Media, which offers consultation to brands. And he is creating a venture that will focus on film production and talent management. “We’re already invested in three films,” he says. He also has plans to launch a new line of jewelry and announce the establishment a new charity foundation.

Photo courtesy of the Anderson Group

These ventures, says Rafi, are a means to an end. “Bullets4Peace is a way. The award shows are a way. Investing in movies is a way. Anything that I do is a way for me to be loud and clear that something needs to be changed.”

Bullets4Peace can be purchased online at bullets4peace.com.

Francesca C. Simon

In “Legendary Artists and the Clothes They Wore,” Terry Newman Examines the Sartorial Style of Great Artists

Image courtesy of HarperCollins

Is fashion art? Some believe that fashion is too self-indulgent to be considered art, while others contend that fashion should be equally ranked with classical music, ballet, and the great masterpieces of Reubens, Renoir, Chagall, and O’Keefe.  And though fashion at one time was viewed as the province of a select group of designers that made garments for very wealthy women, in recent years with the proliferation of fashion exhibitions in major international capitals that celebrate the brilliance and integrity of some of the industry most esteemed designers, fashion is beginning to take its rightful place as in artform.

Terry Newman, in her book Legendary Artists and the Clothes They Wore highlights and celebrates many great artists’ sartorial style. In this book, Newman presents more than forty-five fully illustrated profiles of great artists whose personal style gives a purview into who they were as great artists.

From the great Cecil Beaton to the minimal style of Cindy Sherman to the highly undervalued Leigh Bowery, Terry Newman provides a detailed look at the style of many great artists of the last century as expressed in studio portraits, humorous quips, and archival photographs.

Terry Newman image courtesy of HarperCollins

Fashion Reverie: Why a book that examines the sartorial style of great artists?

Terry Newman: There is this conversation that has been bubbling up for some time about art and fashion. For me, the way to get a bird’s eye view into any cultural phenomenon or cultural movement is through what people wear.  Acknowledging that, it made sense to me to look at art through the clothes that the artists wore. Then I could take the conversation on how fashion has appropriated art, and how artists appropriate, sometimes fueled by fashion.

There is this convergence of the two mediums that I find interesting. And the main interest for me is through the clothes. However, we are at this moment in time where we are having this conversation.

FR: How did you come up with the concept of the book? Because this book is not about great fashion worn by artists, but how fashion was infused into these artists’ lives.

Terry Newman: If you take an artist like Frida Kahlo who was the prism of what I wanted to present in the book. The clothes that people wear is very much a part of their identity. A way into understanding an artist’s work would be not only their biography, but also the clothes they wore. The two are intertwined.

I find it fascinating what people are wearing, not in a judgmental way, but clothes say something about who you are, your likes and dislikes, and it really speaks to your moods. The element of personal style really speaks to me. Fashion is finally broadening and becoming more inclusive. Knowing and resonating in an artist’s work goes hand in hand with what they choose to wear and how they choose to present themselves to the world.

FR: Fashion designers now have art exhibitions. That wouldn’t have happened 50 years ago. That said; could you comment on this current era of fashion as art?

Terry Newman: Global, blockbuster fashion exhibitions in iconic museums is really elevating fashion in the art world.  Fashion is now open to academic and critical analysis. Fashion in museums as exhibitions is not very new. What is different this time around is how these museums are attempting to engage the public around these fashion exhibitions. 

Alexander McQueen’s exhibition is the biggest fashion exhibition that we had here in London and that exhibition also traveled globally. Only when fashion industry professionals start elevating fashion to that kind of critical analysis will fashion be platformed more as an artform.

The art world today, more than in any other time, bases success on sales. When you see the commodification of art, as it is happening now, these mass exhibits are all about sales, and that does change the genre. So, there is a movement that says if art can be commodified to increase sales, why can’t fashion as art be commodified the same way?

Photograph of Marina Abramovic by Dusan Reljin. ©Dusan Reljin. From Legendary Artists and What They Wore, published by HarperCollinsPublishers, 2019.

FR: How did you choose your subjects for the book?

Terry Newman: It was a difficult process. I chose mostly artists from the 20th and 21st century because in a book like this you must have photographs. You want to see what artists are wearing and that becomes more difficult when you step out of the 20th century. I also didn’t have enough room in this book for every artist I wanted to include.

FR: How did you choose the artwork that accompanies each artist in this book?

Terry Newman: It is so important to make sure that images in the book pair up to give the effect I was trying to get across. It took me about year to write the book, and a year to come up with the images. It was really a labor of love. I have thousands of images that I’ve sourced. There was the practicality of getting the right resolution for the images I wanted to use and if I could get permission to use the images. Then I also wanted to present to readers images they may not have ever seen.

One of my favorite images in the book is of Keith Haring painting Grace Jones. Haring was very egalitarian and very generous with his work, putting his signature on so many things so his friends could have something with his name on it. There are photographers that have massive archives of images of Keith Haring that are just sitting around and have never been published.

FR: You also put runway images in the book. Why that inclusion?

Terry Newman:  I wanted to show a little bit more of the conversation that goes on between fashion and art. In the Stephen Sprouse collection, he used Andy Warhol prints. They had a friendship and a communication between the two of them, and Warhol allowed Sprouse to use his imagery on his garments. And how those two things crosspollinate is very important.

I also thought it was very important to demonstrate in the book how fashion designers are inspired by art and how they translate that onto the runway. Yves St. Laurent was always inspired by art; you can’t really do a book like this and not reference Yves St. Laurent. Including runway images was a bit of a step away from the general subject of this book. However, I wanted show how the worlds of art and fashion are linked.

Image of Bruce Nauman by Francois La Diascorn. ©Francois La Diascorn. From Legendary Artists and What They Wore, published by HarperCollinsPublishers, 2019.

FR: You divide the book between hats, glasses, suits, and hairstyles. Could you explain why you chose to order your book this way?

Terry Newman:  Well, it was kind of a cheeky way to put the book together, because fashion should be fun. Sometimes, artists are recognized by distinctive things that they wear. Rene Magritte was known for wearing bowler hats. I am not saying that these artists are all about their glasses, hats, and suits. But what they consistently wore says a little bit about their personality, their eccentricities, and a little bit of who they are as artists.

So, you have Bruce Nauman with his cowboy hats, Magritte with his bowler hats, and Grayson Perry’s alter ego always wearing these bonnets.

FR: Why did you choose performance artist Leigh Bowery for this book?

Terry Newman:  I am particularly in love with Leigh Bowery. But, why put him in the book when so many people have no idea who he is? Particularly, alongside Picasso, Dali, and Pollock.

First, let’s be very clear, Bowery was an outstanding artist. The clothes he wore were pieces of art and he made most of the garments he wore. He didn’t care if he sold his clothes or not. When you think about fashion, you know it is successful if it is selling. However, with art the artist feels he has achieved success if the work expresses what he or she was trying to say.

With Leigh Bowery, he really didn’t care about selling his clothes, he made them for himself as an expression of who he was and what he wanted to express. And in that respect, what he made was art. I feel people need to know who Leigh Bowery was and because it is my book, I get to choose the artists in the book.

I teach a couple of days at an art school in London, and my students are all in their late teens and early 20s. There is a whole world that is pre-digital that they don’t know much about. So, I wanted to include Leigh Bowery so that my students would know who he was because he was pre-digital. I know that he is an odd entry in this book, but he was too wonderful leave out.

Cecil Beaton image by Norman Parkinson. © Iconic Images/Norman Parkinson. From Legendary Artists and What They Wore, published by HarperCollinsPublishers, 2019.

FR: What’s next for you?

Terry Newman:  I don’t know really. I would like to continue to talk about clothes, and personal style, and keep doing what I am doing. I am interested in personalities in fashion and wherever that takes me, that is where I will go next.

Terry Newman has worked in the fashion industry for more than twenty-five years, both as an editor at i-D, Attitude, and Self Service and as a contributing writer for newspapers including the Guardian, the Independent, the Times, and the Sunday Times. She has also written and presented fashion programs in the United Kingdom for Channel 4 (She’s Gotta Have It and Slave). The author of Legendary Authors and the Clothes They Wore (Harper Design), she has contributed to books including i-D’s Fashion Now, Fashion Now 2, and Soul i-D. She currently lectures at the University for the Creative Arts in Epsom, England and lives in London with her husband and two children.

Legendary Authors and the Clothes They Wore is published by HarperCollins.

William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

New York Fashion Week: Men’s Spring 2020 Pre-coverage

Image courtesy of precious7

New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) is here again; however, this time around it is five weeks early. NYFWM usually takes place the second week of July, but this time the CFDA has positioned NYFWM’s alongside the resort collections.

As has been noted in previous articles on this site, NYFWM’s has been struggling for the past two years. Since the exit of Amazon Fashion and Cadillac as major sponsors, as well as the defection of major menswear brands Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, John Varvatos, Nautica, Perry Ellis and a hot of other menswear designers to Paris and other fashion capitals, NYFWM is not a shadow of what is it once was when it launched in 2015.

Image courtesy of nymag.com

For the spring 2020 season there are so few menswear designers presenting collection that NYFWM’s season like an odd patchwork of disparate designers, mostly emerging, that are using to opportunity to attempt to get some traction in the New York fashion market. A traction that is quickly diminishing, particularly as European luxury menswear designers have overwhelming embraced streetwear.

That said; New York Men’s Day (NYMD) will kick off NYFWM on Monday, June 3 as they have for past 12 seasons, holding court this time at the newly anointed Hudson Yards. New York Men’s Day will present spring 2020 collections by a returning Timo Weiland, David Hart, Amirok, Feign, Abysm, Ka Wa Key, Tanaka, Vasilis, Todd Hessert, Tanaka, and the NYMD All-Star Designers including Private Policy, Lucio Castro, Krammer & Stoudt, Woodhouse Army, and Descendant of Thieves.

Image courtesy of pittimagazine.com

Unfortunately, other menswear designers presenting is kind of up for grabs. There are some NYFWM’s stalwarts that have not totally abandoned this event, namely Grungy Gentlemen, Linder, Nihl, and Freemans Sporting Club. Not showing this season are regulars Carlos Campos, Todd SnFeng Chen Wang, Landlord, Palomo Spain, Bode, Dune, Willy Chiavarria, and others.

New York Fashion Week: Men’s will take place on June 3 to June 6.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Tea with Kristopher: Month of May 2019


Fashion Reverie hopes you are enjoying the mostly warm days of May, but now it’s teatime. Grab a chair and a plate of scones as Fashion Reverie pours some delicious tea for you.

Scandalous Tea

The news of Topshop going out of business has hit every major news headline by now, but not enough fingers are being pointed at Philip Green. While some are pointing to Topshop’s declining sales or less than stellar financial management, behind the scenes many are saying it was Green’s sexual picadilloes and cover ups that hurt the company.  Green and Harvey Weinstein could make very compatible bedfellows!!

Influential Tea

A prominent fashion non-profit has many in the industry scowling after a new president without the approval of the board of directors. This new president non-elect now has one of the most coveted positions in the fashion industry. Apparently, he was pushed to the top post by another top fashion figure. Wield your power!!

Fancy Tea

Things are looking tough for this French luxury brand as they are struggling to keep up with other French luxury brands. Their minimalist approach to style in an era where everyone is doing maximalism, streetwear, or tailoring in contributing to lagging sales. You can’t get by on a name recognition alone, consumer habits change too quickly.

Yesterday’s Tea

New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) summer edition is practically dead. The event which has now aligned itself with the women’s resort calendar is already expecting record low attendance. Few international press and buyers are expected to attend, and even those editors on the domestic front are shocked by the bare bones list of shows and presentations. Unlike the winter shows, which follow right into the main NYFW, summer NYFWM’s doesn’t have that luxury, and most industry professionals are bowing out.

Kristopher Fraser

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