THEIA Bridal Fall 2018

For the fall 2018 bridal season, THEIA brought sexy back!! All this sexy is set against the backdrop of the modern bride in Florence, Italy. In this evolution of the brand, THEIA embraces the curves of women of all shapes and sizes.

Like many bridal brands for fall/winter collections, the garments are embroidered with strategic glass and crystals that evoke ice cycles and snowy motifs. And unlike some bridal seasons past, THEIA has transitioned the brand to a bridal market that is more retail friendly. Still, those seasons were creative director Don O’Neill drew inspiration from such disparate influences as Irish sea nymphs, Asian opium dens, and David Bowie is much missed.Though O’Neill has transitioned THEIA into a more market friendly bridal brand does not mean that the brand has lost its creative oeuvre. This fall 2018 bridal collection contained illusion bodices with plunging necklines and open backs. There were also whimsical 3-D floral appliques and embroideries combined with soft Chantilly lace bodices and Spanish tulle skirts. And like some other bridal brands this season, O’Neill included quite a few garments that will look great on both curvy and plus-size brides.Understanding that the modern bride is looking for a bit of color, O’Neill injected a hint of color into the collection evidenced in cloud blues and blush pinks which appeared through the fall 2018 collection. And true to its design aesthetic of always adding that unique item in his bridal collection, O’Neill include a satin sexy jumpsuit for that bridal consumer who wants something goes beyond traditional bridal fare.

                                                           Images courtesy of THEIA

Standout looks in the collection were the ivory Chantilly cutaway halter mermaid gown with hand-appliqued Chantilly lace flowers, porcelain white crystal and glass “Florentine Trellis” embroidered cap sleeve gown, ivory hand-embroidered Italian glass and crystal beaded bodice over a tiered Spanish tulle skirt, ivory satin kimono-sleeved jumpsuit, and ivory plunge front-corded lace and sequin-embroidered gown with Spanish tulle overlay.

—William S. Gooch

Gracy Accad Bridal Fall 2018

It takes a lot of courage to launch a new bridal brand in a depressed retail market. And what’s even more difficult is to debut a collection that stands out from what is already in the market.

Gracy Accad has done all that with her debut fall 2018 bridal collection. “My main inspiration for this collection was Grace Kelly. Not her style alone, but the embodiment of her rare beauty, and the ‘fairytale magic’ that surrounded her,” explained Gracy Accad. “In our fast-paced world, I wanted to find a place for that old Hollywood glamour we rarely see anymore; regality, femininity, and chicness, all coming together to give us a little modern romance.”

True to her words, this debut bridal collection was about more than iconic Grace Kelly beauty. This collection was a dissertation on youthful charm, effervescence and nascent insouciance, all seen through the lens of nuptial beauty.

Understanding that young brides want something beyond just a beautiful gown on that very special day, Gracy Accad has incorporated looks and silhouettes one would normally see in a ready-to-wear collection. From her white bridal moto jacket with full skirt to casual, open neck white shirt with floral skirt and ruffled top with statement sleeves paired with shorts, all these looks are designed to appeal to a younger consumer. And the order of her show also reflected her different approach to bridal. “ I want to do something different, something that hadn’t been seen before. We wanted to start with something that is trendy, and something blue,” detailed Accad. “We understood that are show would be early in the morning and that this was our debut collection and we wanted to stand apart.”

Gracy Accad took a huge risk by leading off her fall 2018 bridal collection with garments a bride would were to her bridal dinner reception, a day or two before the bridal ceremony. “The modern bride is not traditional anymore, so I started off my collection with non-traditional garments. If a bride wanted to get married at City Hall some of the first pieces in my collection would be ideal for that,” explained Accad. “ We also wanted to add a little pop of color to the collection, so you have some pastel blues and pinks starting off the collection.”

                                          Images courtesy of Atelier PR/Dan Lecca

Standout looks in the collection include the ivory silk and wool coat high low with flounced edge and shorts, cream silk organza blouse with dropped balloon sleeves and full floral skirt, and beaded lace and net ball gown with silk and wool moto jacket.—William S. Gooch

Mark Zunino Bridal Fall 2018

Mark Zunino comes from the world of Hollywood glamour. As the fashion design assistant of Nolan Miller—eventually taking over Nolan Miller’s company and his jewelry collection for QVC, for over three decades Zuninio’s name has been associated with Hollywood red-carpet glamour. So, it is no surprise that Zunino would branch into elegant bridal wear.“The Mark Zunino bride is forward-thinking and independent. She embodies femininity by being bold and outspoken but combines it with a touch of delicacy,” explains Mark Zunino. “From country to country the message seemed clear. The modern bride dreams for unique fabrications that form well on every silhouette and marries a timeless tradition with progressive sensuality.”For fall 2018 Mark Zunino is inspired by bringing all the things that brides want from his many travels and unifying those things into a singular expression of bridal beauty. “This collection is really about global unity. I work with a lot of brides from all over the world and they are always looking for things that they can’t easily find. Because of the power of the internet, every girl knows everything that is going on in fashion and I have found that the common thread of brides from over the world is that they want unique fabrics, form-fitting silhouettes, they want bridal gowns that are a little sexier, and a little bit of tradition. Hopefully, we embodied all of that is this collection.”This fall 2018 collection also stood out because of the many unique fabrications used throughout the collection. “From my atelier collection I replicated a very expensive hand-crocheted silk at a less expensive cost. A gown that would normally cost $30,000 because of the fabrication in this fall 2018 collection is now an affordable price point. The price points of the bridal gowns in this collection range from $1600 to $5000.”

Like many bridal designers this season, Zunino employs trends from ready-to-wear collections. There was an explosion of a wide range of statement sleeves, from elongated, trumpeted renaissance sleeves to laced embellished sleeves with cape attachments. There were also some off-the-shoulder looks, as well as a few halter gowns, which seems to be a big bridal trend for fall 2018.

                                                       Images courtesy of Coded PR

In this collection, Zunino also mixed sequins and floral appliques which a carryover from his atelier collection. “When I look all my luxury textiles, Spain is always doing silk floral appliques and embroidery regardless of the season so I carried that aesthetic over to this collection. We are also getting new laser-cut appliques out of Italy that are very polished. I am taking the best from every country and embedded it in this collection.”

Standout looks for Zunino’s bridal fall 2018 collection include the georgette halter sheath with removable cape overlay, three-dimensional laser-cut applique on strapless crepe sheath with Chantilly lace opera coat with floral appliques, floral laser-cut romper with layered organza tiered detachable overskirt, and reverse chevron ruched soft illusion net mermaid gown with arm drape.

—William S. Gooch

 

New York International Bridal Week Fall 2018 Sketches

                                        Images courtesy of marthastewartweddings.com

There is no doubt that New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 was a lackluster excursion into an aimless ménage of fashion for the uninitiated. There were a few exceptions, namely Bibhu Mohapatra, Vivienne Tam, Marchesa, Anna Sui, and a few others.

That said; with New York International Bridal Week (NYIBW) fall 2018 only a few days away there is the expectation among fashion industry professionals that there will be more sophistication and fashion-forward beauty. As it should be; we are talking about visions in white, off-white, and pale pastels.

As a part of Fashion Reverie’s NYIBW fall 2018 pre-coverage, whetting our viewers’ fashion appetite, we present a few bridal fall 2018 sketches. Will the real-time collections live up the sketches? Stay tuned, and find out!!

                               Image courtesy of THEIA

THEIA is always a Fashion Reverie favorite. We have covered THEIA’s bridal collections for eight seasons and true to form, THEIA never disappoints. For fall 2018 the THEIA bride is becoming increasing more daring. The Theia bridal customer is moving away from boho with the look becoming sexier. There are lots of illusion bodices, plunging necklines, bare backs and nude linings, but paired with THEIA’s soft romantic Spanish tulle or silk satin flowing ball skirts. THEIA’s signature beading will continue in form fitting sexy silhouettes made new with 3-D floral embroideries that are light weight, yet sparkle with glass and crystal.

                                     Image courtesy of Atelier PR

There are a couple of first-timers to Fashion Reverie’s bridal pre-coverage. Though we have covered Reem Acra’s women’s ready-to-wear collections, we have never been privileged to cover Reem Acras bridal collections.

For fall 2018 Reem Acra was inspired by something pretty, something delicate, and something floral, all seen through the lens of saintly spirits.

                                                     Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Lakum is completely new to Fashion Reverie. Known for their architectural creations, according to co-creative director Zaha Hadid, the brand’s fall 2018 collection was inspired by, ”form and space are woven within structure.”

—William S. Gooch

 

 

New York International Bridal Week Fall 2018 Pre-Coverage

                                               Image courtesy of bridalmusings.com

On the heels of the hustle and bustle of global fashion weeks—New York, London, Milan, Paris—fall 2018 shows, it is always great to go back to a fashion week that is sublime, calm, and sometimes ethereal. What Fashion Week am I talking about? I am talking about New York International Bridal Week.

For those who are not aware, unlike ready-to-wear women’s and men’s collection, bridal fashion week are mostly one year ahead in presenting their bridal collections, understanding that the average bride plans her nuptials a year in advance. These international bridal weeks are presenting bridal collections that will cater to future brides for the fall 2018 season.

For over seven seasons, Fashion Reverie has been bringing in-depth coverage of New York International Bridal Week. This season there are some new additions do our bridal coverage, as well as our favorites. Expect coverage of Justin Alexander, Mark Zunino, Lakum, Gracey Accad, and Reem Acra, all new additions to our bi-yearly coverage. And as always, viewers can expect reviews of Amsale, Ines di Santo, Anne Barge, Inbal Dror, Theia, and Yolancris.

This promises to be a more expansive and exciting bridal season. Enjoy!!

—William S. Gooch

Rock It or Leave It on the Runway: Trends from NYFWS Spring 2018

Now that Paris Fashion Week spring 2018 season has ended, which marks the end of the prominent fashion weeks in international fashion capitals, Fashion Reverie glances back at some of the trends spotted during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2018. Our “Rock It, or Leave It” on the runway features have become very popular, and true to form for the NYFWS spring 2018 we leave no stones unturned!!

Images of Tom Ford spring 2018, Calvin Klein spring 2018, and Jason Wu spring 2018,                                                      respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Parachute Silhouette

While there are so many of the trends from fashion week that works well for the average consumer, parachute silhouettes are not one of them. The parachute silhouette while it looks great on the model body 5ft 8inch or taller size bodies, on anyone else it creates a large silhouette that adds volume and looks sloppy. Who wants to make themselves look heavier?  Leave It.

Images of Jason Wu spring 2018, Self Portrait spring 2018, and Carolina Herrera spring 2018,                                            respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Polka Dots

It’s so hard to add a touch of whimsy to clothes while still being chic and stylish. Polka dots are such fun, and as this seasons collection demonstrate, they can also be sophisticated and even sexy! Rock It!

Images of Alice + Olivia spring 2018, Tom Ford spring 2018, and Jason Wu Spring 2018,                                                           respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Ruching

One of the biggest mistakes people make when trying to disguise a few extra pounds is to cover extra weight with loose clothing. This creates a larger silhouette and only makes a person look bigger. Ruching is a great way to camouflage less than perfect figures. The gathered fabric creates a slim silhouette while distracting from unsightly lumps. Rock It!

Images of Tom Ford spring 2018, Alice + Olivia spring 2018, and Self Portrait spring 2018,                                               respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Suit Jackets and Shorts

Many designers feel that a woman never looks sexier and well dressed than when she dons a well-fitted suit. Still, a suit is a very formal look. Wearing it to a nightclub or a party can make a person look out of place. Solution for spring 2018: Suit Jacket and shorts! It’s fun, flirty look that lets you show a lot of leg without looking too sexy. Rock It!

Images of Carolina Herrera spring 2018, Calvin Klein spring 2018, Jason Wu spring 2018, and                          Self Portrait spring 2018, respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Transparent Fabric

Haven’t we done this already? It began with the stars wearing sheer unlined gowns on the red carpet and now designers has upped the ante, sending models down the runway wearing see through fabric and no bras. Very few women would feel comfortable replicating this look and depending on where you live you might be breaking the law. This one remains a hard pass. And remember these very diaphanous looks on the runway usually get additional lining on retail racks that can alter the sexiness of the original garment. Fashion Reverie says Leave It!

    Rodarte spring 2018 and Carolina Herrera spring 2018 images courtesy of vogue.com

Square Necklines

Square Necklines are huge this season. The best thing about square necklines is that they can be striking and flattering. When people with round faces wear round necklines it just emphasizes that and makes them look heavier. Square necklines can make you look thinner instantly. Just be sure to try on a square neckline before you buy it. Some are so wide they’ll display bra straps. Rock It!

Images of Calvin Klein spring 2018, Carolina Herrera spring 2018, Tom Ford spring 2018,                       and Alice + Oliva spring 2018, respectively, courtesy of vogue.com

Yellow

Orange was the new black last season and while it’s still going strong, yellow is a strong second behind yellow! The trick to wearing yellow is finding the right shade for your complexion. If your complexion already has yellow undertones, you might want to avoid wearing it altogether. In that case, a purse or shoes in a bright sunshine yellow can make a great accessory. Rock It!

—Cameron Rose

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fashion Reverie Interview: Gloria Steinem at the Apne Aap Dinner

Ruchira Gupta, Ashley Judd, Gloria Steinem, Mona Sinha, and Dorchen Leidholdt attend the APNE Aap dinner on September 21, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by CJ Rivera/Getty Images)

At Fashion Reverie, we love to give witness to powerful women coming together for a cause. It was a meeting of the activists and the feminist principle at the Cosmopolitan Club where feminist and social activist icon Gloria Steinem, Emmy-nominated actress Ashley Judd, and Apne Aap founder Ruchira Gupta came together for the Apne Aap Dinner.          

Apne Aap’s mission is to combat child prostitution and sex trafficking, a cause that Steinem has been involved in for many years. This year, the organization presented special awards to Judd, Dorchen Leidholdt, and Mona Sinha. The evening included a screening of a short film by Maemae Dylan (Bob Dylan’s granddaughter) “Call to Action by Girls for the Last Girl,” and a special theatrical performance by Dipti Mehta titled “Honour: Confessions of a Mumbai Courtesan.”     After the event, Fashion Reverie had the privilege of talking with Gloria Steinem about her continuous activism and involvement with this cause.

Fashion Reverie: How did you get involved with this incredible organization?

Gloria Steinem: Ruchira Gupta and I have known each other since before she formed this organization. We were both journalists who were writing about things that were pretty unjust, so, we became activists. I’m grateful that I have known her as a way of support and extension of what I care about. Also, India is my second home. It’s where I lived when I first got out of college. I lived there for two years, so my oldest friends are there.

FR: So, what do you think the US can do in order to stop sex trafficking abroad?

Gloria Steinem: We can stop supplying customers. It’s what creates the sex trafficking industry, even in this country. We have a massive sex trafficking industry here. The average age of entry into prostitution is something like 12 or 13.

FR: What else can we do to dismantle some of these systems of oppression against young women?

Gloria Steinem: You can make clear to the guys you know that it is not acceptable to buy another human being. Body invasion is a level of trauma that is greater than getting beaten on the outside. You can do so much to just delegitimize sex trafficking by simply reaffirming that it is just not acceptable. If you are going to a business meeting or convention and there are prostitutes or call girls who are a part of it, you can say that is not okay. That can do a lot.

FR: What is the greatest thing that has come out of contemporary feminism that is helping put a stop to things like this?

Gloria Steinem: The miracle of individual women, who, with no encouragement, and sometimes opposition from their own families, even facing ridicule and violence, joining the cause in spite of obstacles. It’s the miracle of empathy, survival and community. I see it everyday.

—Kristopher Fraser

 

New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 Dippity Don’ts

                           Image courtesy of styleblazer.com

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) as we once knew has taken on a new face. No longer is NYFW mostly for fashion industry professionals—the fashion editors, journalists, fashion photographers, stylists, fashion designers, fashion models and all the ancillary professionals—that gives the fashion industry its motivation, momentum and raison d’etre.

NYFW has now quickly become the stomping ground of social media influencers, posers, and 2017’s version of club kids. And while most fashion industry professionals are horrified by this development, the new NYFW is excellent fodder for outrageous fashion.

True to form, Fashion Reverie was front and center, documenting all the crazy fashion, and providing some snarky comments on all the folks that have a bizarre since of themselves and what some think is now and next fashion.

Day 1

I know the asymmetrical look and cutouts are in, but this looks like a bad Junior High home economics project!

Hey girl, it is New York Fashion Week, not Hobo Week!!

 

Day 2It’s a bird, it’s a plane, no, it’s just a mess!!

 

When a music CD goes double platinum that is a good thing, but in this case double platinum is double the ugly.

Day 3Hey girls, the “ho” stroll is in Hunt’s Point.

Hey dude, your tag is showing.

Day 4

This ain’t no 101 Dalmations moment, but Cruella Deville, eat your heart out!!

Work it pimp daddy!!!

Day 5

Child, somebody lied to you, this is not a Good Ship Lollipop moment!!

 

Did your momma let you leave the house, looking like this?

Day 6Wow, it’s the new Darth Vadar. Hey Darth, beef up those legs!!

 

 

NYFW: The Shows Spring 2018 Beauty: Roughed-Up Waves

                                          Nicole Miller spring 2018 image courtesy of

Wild, yet chic waves took center stage at Nicole Miller‘s spring 2018 presentation at New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). The slightly messy, yet still perfectly put-together look, paired well with Miller’s designs, which also master the art of juxtaposition.

“Inspired by the classic Clark Gable and Ava Gardner movie, “Mogambo,” and the concept of a city girl dispatched into safari but ill equipped for the elements. She shows up in her high heels— certainly fabulous but a little askew. Ladylike lace dresses are mixed with structured neutrals, and classic safari tones and textures are juxtaposed with our signature bold prints, evoking a sense of adventure and play.”Rodney Cutler, lead hair stylist for Cutler/Redken Salons, crafted the “roughed-up and tied-back waves” to complement this “journey into the wild.” To get the disheveled, “lazy wave” look, Cutler blows the hair out with some product. Or should we say a lot of product. This look uses 6 different products including Cutler Volumizing Spray, Redken Fashion Work 12 Versatile Hairspray, Redken Wind Blown 05, Redken Wax Blast 10, Redken Powder Grip 03 and Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Two-Day Extender Dry Shampoo!

Once it’s ready to be transformed into those haphazard waves, the hair is set in spirals with a curling iron. Cutler recommends omitting the ends entirely. “The important thing is that you set the root first. Most people at home just set it at the ends and it concentrates at the end.” So make sure to start curling your hair from the very top and stop before you reach the ends. The finished look, that has appropriately been coined as “Mane to be Wild,” is finished off by tying pieces of the hair back and winding in strips of fabric.

                                          All images courtesy of Nicole Miller

Ultimately, the look was simplified a bit for Miller’s presentation, keeping the waves loose and free. It’s not uncommon for a look to be adapted backstage at a show, especially as designers want to make sure you’re not distracted from the clothes. However, both the initial look and the more simplified final look can smoothly be transitioned from the catwalk to the street! So keep it simple, with beautiful breezy waves or tie it back with fabric and get creative, either way, you can’t go wrong!

Does the original hairstyle seem familiar? You might recall seeing a similar look adorned with strips of fabric in Fashion Reverie’s summer editorial!

—Janine Silver

 

The Blonds Spring 2018

Chanel, Thierry Mugler, Oscar de la Renta, Zandra Rhodes, Calvin Klein, and many other designers established their brand with a signature design aesthetic. And though most iconic brands have evolved their signature look by incorporating a wide array of influences, there are always a few garments in their collections that reflect the signature design aesthetic.

Now, one would not place The Blonds in the same constellation of Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Chanel or Mugler; however, there is no doubt that the design duo David and Phillipe have established their signature look with their heavily embellished bustier/bodices.True to form the bedazzled bustier/bodices are back for The Blonds spring 2018 collection. And their fans love it, which was obvious from all the celebrity fans in the front row—Cardi B, Patricia Fields, Deandra Forrest, and others.

Still, this season The Blonds aspired to take their spring 2018 collection beyond bedazzled bustiers and bodysuits. Taking inspiration from Samuel Coleridge’s epic work,”Kublai Khan,” The Blonds attempted to elevate their “Platinum Paradise” collection beyond blinged-out stage costumes. And they almost accomplished their goal, but not entirely. Like “Kublai Khan” this collection could be opium-induced, but hardly sublime and ominous at the same time.There were sequin-embellished torn jeans, a head-to-toe, gold bedazzled moto jacket with gold jeans, as well as the multi-colored, rainbow fluorescent jacket that Teyana Taylor opened the show in. (Unfortunately Teyana Taylor’s boob-bouncing, turquoise body suit under fluorescent rainbow jacket ensemble did not enhance the show; in fact, it brought a classless patina to a collection that was already heavy on glitzy call girl.)

Add to that thigh-high boots, Miss Kitty saloon-inspired garments, as well as a few curvy models, and you have an entertaining show. Not as eye catching as last season, but entertaining nonetheless.

                                                    Images courtesy of EB Consults

Still, does all this bling add up to a fashion collection, or is it just another media-grabbing, spectacle moment? Fashion Reverie thinks it is a bit of both. And the both fits right into what New York Fashion Week: The Shows has become, a six-day diatribe on spectacle with a little fashion thrown in for good measure.—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

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